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Thread: 1973 240Z Refreshtoration – 901 Silver

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    ZCCIV Webmaster motorman7's Avatar
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    Cool 1973 240Z Refreshtoration – 901 Silver

    I was not going to start a thread on this but changed my mind as the information may help those who are thinking of buying a Z just to do some minor clean-ups and flip it. What I thought would be a quick 3 month ‘clean-up’ and sale has now turned into a well over 5 month ‘Refreshtoration’. I don’t really call it a restoration as I am not doing a complete 100% strip of the body and undercarriage. And my original intention was just a simple re-fresh. So, I am now in the middle of these two with what I am calling a ‘Refreshtoration’.
    Part of the problem in cleaning up a vehicle is you can’t just strip a car, put a nice paint job on it, put it back together and sell it. The paint may look great but the surrounding parts do not match. So now the paint looks good, but the bumpers that looked fine on an oxidized car now look lousy on a freshly painted car. So we add re-chromed bumpers to the cost. Now that the bumpers are re-chromed, the old door handles look bad. You get the picture. One improvement eventually leads to another. As a result, my initial refresh budget of $2500 has now ballooned to over $4000 (so far). That is a huge increase. And, that price does not include labor as I do most of the work myself.
    And for those of us who are ‘anal retentive’, like myself, flipping cars is not your calling. The issue is that there is a lot of time in the details. I am talking about rust abatement here. I can’t for the life of me put a rusty nut or bolt back onto a car. It has to be either wire wheeled and zinc plated, or wire wheeled and sprayed (paint or clear coat for metal). Of course thread anti-seize also has to be used. And, any form of rust on the body needs to be treated and Por-15’d or at least passivated and sprayed. This all takes quite a bit of time.
    Now, let’s throw ‘attachment’ into the picture. Of course when I bought the car and told my wife of my plans, she said, ”You won’t be able to sell that car because you will be too attached to it”. I said, “No problem for me, I can sell it in a heartbeat”. That was easy to say when I first bought the car. Now, after many hours of labor on this car, I find myself re-considering. “Maybe, I can finish it and drive it up to my parents’ barn and leave it there for a while”, I tell myself. I think I’d like to enter it in some of the local shows here soon. Maybe I keep this one, give my son the yellow Z and sell his T-bird. Oh how my wife knows me too well.

    So this is where I am at right now. I will re-post some of the original pictures and then show the progress. I will also add more info on this as I get some time. The PO was pretty interesting so I want to add that as well.
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    Registered User cozye's Avatar
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    interesting thread. I'll be keeping an eye on this one as I'm doing a "refreshstoration" now myself.

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    Default The carpet story

    I love Craigslist for buying cars. Nice selection and in my opinion, some great deals. You also get quite a few dreamers on there as well. Anyway, when I saw the ad on Craigslist for the ’73, I was very impressed by the original look and the motor pics that looked to be untouched. All that funky insulation was intact as was the smog and the flat top carbs. The owner wanted $1300 for it. I called the owner to see the car, at which point he mentioned he could no longer start the car. I told him that was fine, I would still like to see it.
    When I arrived, the owner was still trying to start the car. I did a quick inspect and tried to help him start it but no luck (later found out it was a bad fuel pump). Since he couldn’t start it, he on the spot lowered the price to $900. That was nice, no need to haggle down the price. I checked the car over and was thrilled. There were two minor rust spots behind the rear wheels, not bad. Radiator, radio and seats were not original, otherwise it was not too ‘molested’. The seats were a nice pair of Recaro’s which are now in my sport yellow Z. The owner had bought the car for his son to ‘fix-up’, but the son lost interest. The seats were as far as he got, fortunately.
    The owner was very excited to show me the blue carpet that he had bought to ‘re-do’ the complete interior. He was insistent that I take it to complete the car by gluing the carpet over the vinyl black diamond interior. The funny thing about this is that the original vinyl inside is nearly flawless as are the door panels-better than my ’70 even. Makes me cringe to think he would have tossed that to put in the horrendous blue carpet.
    The owner was really quite cool, though. He is the author of a very popular robotics book and he gave me a free copy. I helped with my sons’ robotics team at school, so we had a lot to talk about. Anyway, I got my wife to agree to car number 6 and paid cash for it the next day as I picked it up with the u-haul trailer. Now the fun begins

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    Marooned Fish cygnusx1's Avatar
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    Oh the deals you guys find for clean cars on the left coast makes me cringe. Good luck and I eagerly await updates!
    Dave C, Putnam, NY
    NYZCC - Membership Director

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    I will try and keep the thread focused on the ‘Refreshtoration’ costs.
    The first thing to do was get the car running. Once home, this wasn’t all that hard to do. I checked spark and rough timing- that looked good. Pulled a carb fuel hose and turned the engine over-no fuel. That was easy. Since the car has an electric near the tank and a mechanical on the engine, I started with bypassing the mechanical and just running with the electrical. Still no fuel. Went and bought a new ‘Nippondenso’ mechanical pump for $53, bypassed the electrical pump and got fuel to come out the carb hose. Perfect. Hooked up the hose and the car started right up. All I needed was a new set of tires, $380 for Michelins at Costco and I am now using the car as my daily driver. Add $70 for new title and registration, $50 for the fore mentioned u-haul trailer and we are now at $1453. It adds up fast.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cygnusx1 View Post
    Oh the deals you guys find for clean cars on the left coast makes me cringe.
    Amen to that. And they're scooped up before us East Coasters have a chance.

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    Default bumper and brake lines

    Got the front bumper in. This was one of the items I did not intend to 'upgrade', but closer inspection said they needed help. Thus the re-chrome and new front bumber strips. This is $800 that I did not budget in originally(both bumpers chromed, towel bar holes welded up, 2 new front rubber strips). I do love the look though. I painted the grill with the same paint I used for the back panel. Also completed the brake and fuel line clean-up. Dropped the flywheel off to get surfaced at the machine shop. If I can get the time, will get the motor in next week. Here are the progress pics. Also threw in a before picture.
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    Mike B
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    I think flipping anything is a risky business, whether it is a car or a house, especially if you are refreshing it to a level that you would want if you were keeping it. If flipping it for a profit was your sole goal, you probably would have done better by just reselling it after you got if running again. I think the level of attachment to the car will be proportional to what someone offers you for it. If they offer what you have in it or less, you are more attached, if it is a decent profit (to cover some of your labor) then you will probably be less attached.

    So where are you at now with the total cost, after the paint, bumpers, etc? It would be a good reference to post the total "investment" to date as you post updates. Another expense to a repaint is the cost of all the new seals, etc. Even with an aftermarket kit, that adds several hundred dollars.

    I guess if you are able to use it as a daily driver for awhile you should also factor that benefit in when you add up the costs. Anyway, it looks great and I'm curious to see where you end up with it when it is all said and done.

    -Mike

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    what do you use to recoat the bare metal hardware to get that original yellowish gold look ?

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    Hi Mike,

    Detailed Costs (so far)

    Car: $ 900
    Trailer home: $ 50
    Title and Reg: $ 70
    New Michelins $ 380
    Fuel Pump: $ 52
    Zinc kit cost (partial) $ 50
    Body work supplies $ 40
    Paint at Maaco $1680
    Bumpers, handles $ 750
    Bumber Rubber $ 65
    BD Weatherstrip kit $ 220
    Mirror, Fierwall Rubber $ 150
    Dash Cap $ 100
    Mag center caps $ 40
    Engine bay light $ 25
    Motor gasket kit $ 150
    Panel and motor paint $ 45
    Flywheel surface $ 36
    Paint polish kit $ 120
    Looks like the total is $4923 so far. I still need a carpet kit,some of the emblems, and some engine hoses. And I am sure there will be more. So looks like we will fly past $5K. Hopefully stopping short of $5.5K. I will keep everyone posted.
    Definitely a learning experience here. And I think you are right, would have been better off financially selling it once I got it running. Although, I really love doing the work. I find it very satisfying and theraputic. Would go crazy if I couldn't work on the car.

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
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    Quote Originally Posted by cozye View Post
    what do you use to recoat the bare metal hardware to get that original yellowish gold look ?
    I use the Caswell zinc plating kit.

    http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

    I like doing the plating myself because it is convenient and I can get the exact finish I want. I can control the brightness, rainbow, and color darkness ...for the most part. Some metal types are harder than others.

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
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    Quote Originally Posted by motorman7 View Post
    I use the Caswell zinc plating kit.

    http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

    I like doing the plating myself because it is convenient and I can get the exact finish I want. I can control the brightness, rainbow, and color darkness ...for the most part. Some metal types are harder than others.
    Thanks for the link. I've been wondering about this.

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    Very nice car. I'm guessing you will NOT end up selling it. The problem with these cars-and many others, is that it is hard to get out what you have into them and make a profit unless you find someone that is a collector looking specifically for that quality of car. That is tough to do in this market, but I certainly wish you all the best.

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    Nice job Rich. Wish I had some silver wires for ya.
    Randy Taylor
    2/71 240z

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    Rich, I was up by your place yesterday at the Stone Brewery with my buddies for the 10-10-10 event. It was fun. Now onto your car: which car is this? The one you got a few months ago? I really wish I could follow your lead and get my projects done. I got 2 71s and one 73 that I gotta get done besides the 67 Roadster too. I really got get organized like you are.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Montezuma View Post
    Rich, I was up by your place yesterday at the Stone Brewery with my buddies for the 10-10-10 event. It was fun. Now onto your car: which car is this? The one you got a few months ago? I really wish I could follow your lead and get my projects done. I got 2 71s and one 73 that I gotta get done besides the 67 Roadster too. I really got get organized like you are.
    This is the same one that you were looking at on Craigslist. I got it before you did .

    Wish I would have known you were at Stone, I probably could have joined you. We will do that next time. I am hoping to have this Z ready for the Empire Z show. That gives me about a month. It will be close.

    Randy, thanks again for the yellow plug wires. They look great on the yellow Z. I am keeping this one stock though-plain black wires. I will also be keeping the fuel line insulation, flat top carbs and an early '73 radio. It's very retro - I am showing my age here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by motorman7 View Post
    “Maybe, I can finish it and drive it up to my parents’ barn and leave it there for a while”, I tell myself. I think I’d like to enter it in some of the local shows here soon. Maybe I keep this one, give my son the yellow Z and sell his T-bird.
    A couple of thoughts....
    1. I have a friend near Tampa that started out that way.. refreshing a few solid Z's... today I believe he has about 20 of them restored....

    2. Sell your son's T-Bird, and buy my wife's. 91 Super Coupe with less than 11K miles. $12K and he can drive it back to California..

    Great project so far....
    FWIW,
    Carl B.

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    Where did you get the brake line clips, or holders......not really sure what they are called but they look great. I need some for my car but have never found a source.

    Car is looking great, and this has turned into a very resourceful thread.

    Keep up the good work.

    1970 240Z HLS30 00797 White / Blue

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    Quote Originally Posted by mally002 View Post
    Where did you get the brake line clips, or holders......not really sure what they are called but they look great. I need some for my car but have never found a source..
    The brake line clips and rubber are all the original parts.

    I use the Armor-all tire spray and scotch brite to clean the rubber and get it clean and black. I had to clean off the PO's silver overspray.

    For the metal brake clips, I wire wheel them and then use my Zinc plating kit and yellow chromate to re-produce the 'gold' color. They are one of the easier parts to plate and really look great in person. The pics don't do them justice.

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
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    Quote Originally Posted by motorman7 View Post
    This is the same one that you were looking at on Craigslist. I got it before you did .

    Wish I would have known you were at Stone, I probably could have joined you. We will do that next time. I am hoping to have this Z ready for the Empire Z show. That gives me about a month. It will be close.

    Randy, thanks again for the yellow plug wires. They look great on the yellow Z. I am keeping this one stock though-plain black wires. I will also be keeping the fuel line insulation, flat top carbs and an early '73 radio. It's very retro - I am showing my age here.
    I might go to Stone this Saturday, my buddies want to do Cars and Coffee on this coming Saturday. I will let you know...we may as well stop by since it is on the way home.

    I really love the work you and the dedication to the job. Right now I am using my GI Bill for school so it takes up a lot of my time. My buddy would really like to see the plating process in person sometime.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Montezuma View Post
    I might go to Stone this Saturday, my buddies want to do Cars and Coffee on this coming Saturday. I will let you know...we may as well stop by since it is on the way home.

    I really love the work you and the dedication to the job. Right now I am using my GI Bill for school so it takes up a lot of my time. My buddy would really like to see the plating process in person sometime.
    Bring some parts by and I'll plate them and show you the process.

    Saturday could work for Stone. I plan on putting the motor in that day, but shouldn't be too hard. I can always use a break.

    My wife says I am addicted to this car stuff. She wasn't real bothered by it though 'cause she said it is better than being addicted to crack or something like that.....

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
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    HLS30-40498 Next resto
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    Rich,

    You crack me up. How far you have come since the first time I met you at the Western show and you were detailing your dad's car. The silver car looks great and I hope you have it finished by the Empire show. I'll try to drop by to say hello, but I'm not going to enter. Couldn't beat you if I tried now! You've gone way past my level of obsession!!! BTW, may have a new wax for you to try. Will know more in a few weeks.

    Bob

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    Rich,

    Where did you find new '73 rubber bumper inserts? I tried to find a set for my '73, but ended up just putting a new early bumper on instead.
    Doug

    '73 240Z (HLS30-126840)(10/72) Yellow (64XXX original miles)
    '66 MGB (GHN3L108501)(12/14/66) BRG
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    Hi Doug,

    I got the two rubber strips on the bumper itself from Les at Classic Datsun-great deal, just $30 each. He said they were the last two he had left. The rubber for the two over-riders is the original. I plugged the two holes where the 'towel bar' was with black silicon which matches pretty well.

    The rubber coated metal pieces on each side, just behind the bumper are also original. I scrubbed them with a scotch brite pad and Armor tire spray (the clear oily stuff) to remove most of the cracked oxidized rubber. They are not perfect, but look very good. I was happy enough with the results to keep them on.

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
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    Rich, I will take you up on your offer and see you on Saturday around 1 or so....maybe earlier.

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    Give Oliver (aka zman) a call at http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/cPath/4_121

    This is where I got the replaceemnt rubber for the bumper on my 72 240Z.

    Jay
    Not juts a Z - ZDisease

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobc View Post
    I'll try to drop by to say hello, but I'm not going to enter. Couldn't beat you if I tried now!
    Not true, the only time I win is when you don't enter your car


    Quote Originally Posted by bobc View Post
    You've gone way past my level of obsession!!! BTW, may have a new wax for you to try. Will know more in a few weeks.

    Bob
    I look forward to the new wax. Oddly, I find waxing my Z's quite enjoyable.

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
    SPL311-27444 It lives
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    Polished the 5 slot mags with an old Craftsman drill. It runs circles around my cordless DeWalt. Also cleaned up the wheel wells.
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    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
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    HLS30-40498 Next resto
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    Default Motor not in Car :-(

    Was hoping to have the motor in by today, but no go. Hopefully will get it in on Thursday. I did get the trans in, so that is good. Have the front end held up with a rope so I can move the car around.

    The trans took quite a bit of time to clean up. Was oily and pretty corroded. Got the anti-sway bar put in and the T/C rods. Put in new rubber T/C bushings.

    I figured out the best way to get the T/C nut to go on. Make sure parking brake is set and all four wheels on the ground; grab top of the front tire nearest the T/C bushing you are going to install nut on, and rotate it aft as much as possible. This pushes the T/C rod through the 'buckle' further and allows you to get the nut started. That is, rotate the tire aft with one arm and install the nut with the other at the same time. Worked pretty well for me.

    I need to paint the front disc covers. Looks like the caliper needs to come off to remove and paint that, what a pain.

    Add another $75 dollars to the total cost for new cluth disc, T/C bushings and pilot bearing. Had a new throw-out bearing, so no cost there, just took me 20 minutes to find it :-|. Add $26 dollars for 4 cans of undercoating.

    Total is now $5024. Still need to get that carpet kit and who know what else.

    Still a lot to do.
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    Last edited by motorman7; 10-17-2010 at 08:33 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by motorman7 View Post
    Hi Mike,

    Detailed Costs (so far)


    Paint at Maaco $1680
    Hello Rich. I've been following this thread...the car is looking really good! Will you please elaborate on the paint from Maaco? For example, did you do any prep on the car? Did you have any input on the type of paint used? Any other details, and are you happy with it?

    Gary S.

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    Gary,

    Here's a link to an old post of mine regarding my experience and cost with Maaco.

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ighlight=maaco

    I used the base/clear (which is their most expensive).

    Hope this is not considered a "thread jack" but thought you may find other info helpful if your considering Maaco. However remember they are all individually owned so quality may differ.

    Good luck,

    PS.......Motorman 7, the car looks GREAT!

    1970 240Z HLS30 00797 White / Blue

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    Quote Originally Posted by 7T1240 View Post
    Will you please elaborate on the paint from Maaco? For example, did you do any prep on the car? Did you have any input on the type of paint used? Any other details, and are you happy with it?

    Gary S.
    Hi Gary,
    I have had two Z's done at the Maaco in OC,CA. On both cars, the paint looks great.

    I did the prep work myself. I stripped the cars until I was down to the rolling chassis-no motor, no glass, etc. I did most of the body work, sanding and prep myself. Some work was done by the Maaco on items that I missed-small charge for that.

    As mentioned by Mally002, each Maaco is different, as are their prices. I took my now yellow Z to the Maaco about 4 blocks from my house for an estimate. Their estimate for the top of the line 'signature' paint job was about $2600. The shop in OC, 60 miles away charged $1800 for the same work. In both cases, the 'signature' paint cost was the same for the outside of the car. The difference was the price for painting the engine bay, door jams, individual parts, etc.- huge cost difference. The local shop wanted $400 to do the engine bay, OC charged $50. It was worth it to take it up to OC.

    I did not check into the paint brand or quality. I left that to them. I really am not well versed on that subject.

    Regarding the paint work done, I was thrilled with the job they did on the yellow Z, not as happy, but satisfied with the silver Z. I am guessing the silver Z was more of a challenge because it was silver over silver or silver over grey primer. The yellow Z, was yellow over silver so easy to see what was missed. As a result, there are a couple areas in the engine compartment that were missed (I am being pretty picky here as one of the areas is the underside of the frame rails in the engine compartment the other is the front part of the radiator attach frame). Neither area is very visible, but these were both done well on the yellow Z.

    Also, the silver Z took a long time, almost 7 weeks. I knew I was in trouble when I brought it to the shop and the parking lot was filled with cars. Just like a diner, I am guessing you can also tell the good shops by the number of cars at the shop. There were few at my local Maaco, 10 times as many at the shop in OC.

    All in all, I am very happy with the results for the cost.

    Hope that helps.

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    Rich, Did Maaco bake the car after painting?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MK1888 View Post
    Rich, Did Maaco bake the car after painting?
    Yes they did

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    deleted
    Last edited by bobc; 10-22-2010 at 12:11 AM.

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    Default Motor's in :-)

    Got the motor put in. It went pretty quick with my son helping. Put the distributor on with wires and realized the harness combs were missing. Will have to get some of those.

    Got the rear side windows in last Tuesday. Much thanks to the person who suggested the masking tape to hold the weatherstrip in place while it dries. I think I actually had my first ever pleasant experience with weatherstripping
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    Last edited by motorman7; 10-21-2010 at 09:54 PM. Reason: spelling

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    I really like the darker blue on the engine, it looks perfect with the CAD yellow pieces.

    Your "refreshtoration" is starting to looking like a "restoration".........

    1970 240Z HLS30 00797 White / Blue

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    Quote Originally Posted by mally002 View Post
    I really like the darker blue on the engine, it looks perfect with the CAD yellow pieces.

    Your "refreshtoration" is starting to looking like a "restoration".........
    Hi Randy,

    The color is actually the correct Nissan blue. It just looks a bit dark in the above pics due to the lighting. Here are the pics before install- the color is shown better here. Thanks for the complements.

    Rich
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    Still plays with cars kenz240z's Avatar
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    I need to check into the cad plating kit. I've been using Eastwood's cad paint, which looks pretty good, but obviously not as good as true plating!
    Kenny P.

    '73 240Z
    '82 ZX L28
    '82 ZX 5-speed
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    Default 13.1 miles

    Usually, when I want to go 13 miles, I take the Z. However this weekend I will be running in the LA 1/2 marathon, so I won't get much done with the car. This will be my first 1/2 marathon, so we will see how it goes.

    I did just a couple small things last night. Got the brake booster on. I believe this is the original brake booster with original decal. Tried to clean it up as best I could. The decal has some dots on it, but it did clean up well. Re-painted the booster gloss black.


    Also got the mirror on. I got this new from Banzai motorworks. Was not as hard to put on as I thought it would be. I've seen threads on this subject. Had to remove the chrome strip on the door to get this on. Started the securing nut by putting my hand through the top slot. Tightened the nut with a 1/2" socket on a swivel feeding through the door inside slot. Worked pretty well.
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    Is that the later model, larger brake booster? Looks like it from the pic. That's what I put in mine and I could tell the difference in pedal pressure.
    Julio
    1972 240Z (in-progress, 95% complete)
    CZC# 15388

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    Where are you getting all the metal work done? It looks like your getting everything in an alcad type coating. looks very nice.

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    Still plays with cars kenz240z's Avatar
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    Wink

    I've found it real easy to get to the mirror mounting nut by reaching up through the bottom opening. Start by raising the window all the way up. The trick is to put your hand and arm in parallel to the bottom of the door, then rotate your arm up to where the mirror mounts. A small ratchet or a rachet-type box wrench will fit up there to remove/install the nut. I took a couple of photos to illustrate...
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    Kenny P.

    '73 240Z
    '82 ZX L28
    '82 ZX 5-speed
    Round top SU's
    Tokico HP struts
    Tokico Springs
    Urethane bushings

    my gallery

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oiluj View Post
    Is that the later model, larger brake booster? Looks like it from the pic. That's what I put in mine and I could tell the difference in pedal pressure.
    Yes, this one is different than the replacement I have in my '71. The '71 is smaller diameter and a bit longer. This is larger diameter. It was working well so I will keep it on.






    Quote Originally Posted by DC871F View Post
    Where are you getting all the metal work done? It looks like your getting everything in an alcad type coating. looks very nice.
    Thanks, I do it myself with the Caswell kit.

    Quote Originally Posted by kenz240z View Post
    I've found it real easy to get to the mirror mounting nut by reaching up through the bottom opening. Start by raising the window all the way up. The trick is to put your hand and arm in parallel to the bottom of the door, then rotate your arm up to where the mirror mounts. A small ratchet or a rachet-type box wrench will fit up there to remove/install the nut. I took a couple of photos to illustrate...
    Not sure if that will work in the '73. It looks like there are some channels on the inside of the door that I have not seen on my '71 (I saw them on the passenger side, guessing they are also on the drivers side. I think these were added to improve crash resistance.



    PS: finished the 1/2 marathon in 2:05:41. Not bad for my first 1/2 marathon. Still debating on if I ever want to try that again.
    Last edited by motorman7; 10-24-2010 at 05:12 PM.

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    What finish are you using from the Caswell system?

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    Quote Originally Posted by DC871F View Post
    What finish are you using from the Caswell system?
    I use this one: http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

    After the zinc plate, I do a 20 second blue chromate dip to get more of the rainbow effect, then a 2 minute yellow chromate dip. Rinse in warm bucket of water and light air dry with 15 psi of compressor air.

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    very cool, thanks.

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    Default slow going :-|

    Boy, this is taking a while. Too many things going on in life. Had the half marathon last week, moving in-laws this week and next. Not getting my car time in. It is a bit frustrating.

    I was able to do a little bit last Thursday. Got the Brake master cylinder in, cleaned up the drivers side shock tower, zinced the coil bracket and other parts.

    Got some emblems in from e-bay. Got the hood emblem and both rear hatch emblems for under $80. Not bad. Only prob was that the hood emblem had no pins. I made a simple bracket to fit inside with two #4-40 screws attached to the plate. secured the bracket to the emblem with gorilla glue. Used two keps nuts to secure it to the hood. Works very well and it is removable.

    I put the hatch emblems on, the rear opener button, and the rear glass. The back end is looking nice.

    Just have to keep pluggin away bit by bit on this.

    Add $80 for the emblems and $125 for a carpet kit and now I am up to $5229.
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    Last edited by motorman7; 10-31-2010 at 08:37 PM.

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    Status? Will it be ready for next weekend? Might be up your way tomorrow, going to Stone of course.

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    No, will not be ready at all . My renters moved out so been spending the last couple weekends fixing up the rental house. What a pain. House work is not nearly as fun as car work. Hopefully can get it rented soon. Hoping to start back on the car in December

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    Quote Originally Posted by motorman7 View Post
    No, will not be ready at all . My renters moved out so been spending the last couple weekends fixing up the rental house. What a pain. House work is not nearly as fun as car work. Hopefully can get it rented soon. Hoping to start back on the car in December
    That is too bad. Atleast you have the yellow one to take to the show.

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    Rich......It's so nice to see these old cars come back to life.......You do an outstanding job!!!!! Beautiful work!!!! By the way....you can buy the brake booster stickers from Mike at Banzai, along with most other stickers. Guy
    Last edited by Diseazd; 11-12-2010 at 08:57 AM.
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    70, 71, 2 72's, and a 73 240z....
    90 300zx and a 1996 Acura NSX.....but who's counting?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Diseazd View Post
    Rich......It's so nice to see these old cars come back to life.......You do an outstanding job!!!!! Beautiful work!!!! By the way....you can buy the brake booster stickers from Mike at Banzai, along with most other stickers. Guy

    Thanks Guy! I have to say, I am doing my best to get up to your level. Your motor and paint pictures have been a great inspiration. I have saved those pictures and use them as my models. I even have your Safari gold engine bay paint job on my rotating screen saver slides .

    I will need to contact Mike at Banzai. The paint shop painted over the gold stickers on the underside of my hood. It least I know where to place the new ones

    Best Regards,
    Rich

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    Default Windshield in :-)

    Finally got a chance to work on the car again. With moving the in-laws, fixing up the rental house, and celebrating the 25th wedding anniversary with a nice eight day get-away, haven't had much time to get anything done on the car in the last four weeks. Now that all this is done, I can finally get back to work here.

    I did go to the SoCalRoc Show on Saturday, 27 Nov. I love the roadsters. I took second in the Z category with my yellow Z, so that was nice.

    Getting back to the '73 refreshtoration, I got the windshiled in. It was a piece of cake. Had my son help me put it in place and the rest I was able to do myself. I have installed two windshields and two rear hatch glasses and feel pretty comfortable with the process. It did not take that long either. Maybe 2 hours total to put in the glass and the stainless strips. Also got the windshield wipers on and a side emblem. Still a lot to do but it's nice to get back to work on the car.
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    Nice to see you back to work Rich. I must get back up there to visit you and Stone of course.

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    looking good. Where did you get the windshield rubber from?

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    Quote Originally Posted by grantf View Post
    looking good. Where did you get the windshield rubber from?
    Hi Grant,

    The windshield rubber is from the complete gasket kit that I purchased from Black Dragon. The cost is about $200 and include almost all of the gaskets for the car.

    I got the same kit for my yellow one. Only thing I don't like on the yellow Z is the tight door seal. Takes some effort to close.

    This is a newer kit and the door gaskets are packeaged different than the rest of the kit. I am hoping these are improved. I will know in a couple weeks when I get to them.

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    Default Spare tire area

    Cleaned up the spare tire area and installed the rear carpet. There was a lot of that horse hair stuff to clean up. Put in the carpet for the rear deck and the passenger side. Will get to the drivers side this weekend.

    The rear carpet did not have the cutout for the turnbuckle at the aft most end, but that worked out OK. I loosened the buckles and tucked the carpet under the buckle to secure it.

    The two cloth belts are a bit faded. May talk to my wife and see if she can dye them for me.

    This spare is probably pretty old. Toyo Z-1 14/175 series with Rayon cords.
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  59. #59
    Registered User rtaylor's Avatar
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    Hey Rich. For my straps i just used SEM Landau Black and sprayed them three years ago. They still look brand new.
    Randy Taylor
    2/71 240z

    HLS30-23242

  60. #60
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    Default Weather stripping ....my favorite :-|

    Started doing some of the interior items. I put on a full dash cap from MSA. It looks nice and clean but seems to be a bit glossier than the original. It makes the glove box look a little dull. I will look into putting some Lexol conditioner on it to see if that brightens up the glove box. It was pretty easy to install. I used a razor blade to flatten the high spots. I lightly sanded the dash and the underside of the dashcap as directed. The fit was very good. The only part that needed help was the portion that goes around the radio. I used two pieces of wood wedged against the seat to hold that part of the plastic in while the glue dried.

    I started do the weather stripping. A huge thanks to the person that suggested masking tape to hold the stuff in place. That works very well. In spite of the masking tape, weatherstripping is still a big pain to do. The only part I like about it, other than the elimination of the exhaust smell, is peeling the glue from my fingers when I'm done .

    I got the passengers side door completed and panel in. I re-did the clear cover plastic under the panel using the bag from the dash cap. It is a nice thick plastic. Used the old brittle and torn plastic as a template for the new stuff. Secured the clear plastic with the weather-stripping glue.

    In the engine bay, I have been waffling on the air galley. One part of me wants to use the yellow zinc paint as it is much cheaper and easier. The other side of me says I need to get a new air galley. Still really not decided yet, but I am leaning to the new air galley. They are such a pain to remove...I tried already with the wrenches. May need a blow torch if I go in that direction. As for now, the galley is painted with POR high temp silver.

    Still need to get a few parts, but haven't bought anythng lately (put the dash cap cost in earlier). Total cost is still at $5229.
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    I need to get a new air galley - but have been unable to find one.

    FWIW,
    Carl B.

  62. #62
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    Default Great work!

    Hey Rich,

    Just a quick comment about all your great work! I've began the total refreshtoration (to borrow your description) of my early '74 260Z. It's on the rotisserie and I will begin the long process of grinding/sanding it to bare metal when I get home from work next month.. (I work overseas) My plan is to have the body media blasted, fix a couple small areas of rust, powder coat applied two stage primer and finally paint. I've got the fabrication shop all lined up for all the mentioned work.

    I'm very anal retentive as well and have been searching for a way to get the plating finish back on the small pieces without completely breaking the bank at a plating shop. You are spot on about the budget rising without control when the old parts just won't look right on a freshly painted car!! Thanks so much for the pics and information on the plating system that you used!! I'm excited about getting home and starting the process myself.

    Fantastic thread.. just fantastic!!

    Thanks again!! I'll be watching as you finish this beautiful '73!

    Tom


    Nissan Monterey Blue Early '74 260Z
    RLS30-037826
    Complete rotisserie refreshtoration in process

  63. #63
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    Does anyone know of a source for the brake line and fuel line clips and rubber? Also any suggestions on refreshing the lines?
    Wally Dill
    1970 240Z VIN 3435, white with light blue interior
    Under Full Restoration

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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Beck View Post
    I need to get a new air galley - but have been unable to find one.

    FWIW,
    Carl B.
    MSA shows them in stock. I think I will order mine from there. I spoke with them before about these and they mentioned that they obtain them from a Japanese supplier that makes other parts for Nissan. I also think they have the best price, unless you can find one on e-bay.

    Quote Originally Posted by WDILL View Post
    Does anyone know of a source for the brake line and fuel line clips and rubber? Also any suggestions on refreshing the lines?
    Not sure where to get those new. You can get the clips zinced at a number of local shops. The rubber is a challenge. I have always cleaned up the old rubber. May have to go to the junk yard for those. For the fuel lines, typically I clean them with Scotch brite (just enough to make them look clean) then put a clear hi-heat enamel over them. If you are super serious and industrious, you can remove them completely and get them re-zinced also.

    Personally I do my own zinc and love it. It gives me a lot of control over the process and I can do it any time I want.

    Rainman-Thanks for the kudos -The car is coming along well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Beck View Post
    I need to get a new air galley - but have been unable to find one.

    FWIW,
    Carl B.
    No air galley's at MSA
    Last edited by motorman7; 12-14-2010 at 04:52 PM.

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  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by WDILL View Post
    Does anyone know of a source for the brake line and fuel line clips and rubber? Also any suggestions on refreshing the lines?
    I bought new clips from Black Dragon last year......they list them as brake hose lock plates and brake hose lock springs.......I bought the rubber blocks from Jim Frederick....Carl could probably tell you if he still has some. Guy
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/1404980...7600346077563/
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    70, 71, 2 72's, and a 73 240z....
    90 300zx and a 1996 Acura NSX.....but who's counting?

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    Default Light at the end of the tunnel :-)

    Wow, It's starting to get pretty close to being finished. If I absolutely had to, I could have it running in less than a day. Just need to finish up the carbs, smog stuff and exhaust and a little bit of interior stuff. I'm guessing in two weeks or less that I have it up and running. I need to re-zinc a number of the carb and intake parts.

    I got most of the interior parts in. They were really in great condition, so that was a big help. Only had one panel crack to remedy on the passengers quarter panel plastic. The rest was very clean. I will need to get some new rivets from MSA. Some rivets did not do well in the disassembly process. Also lost someof those elusive rivet center pins.

    I put the electric antenna in. I was able to cycle it up and down a couple times with my power supply to make sure it worked. The PO gave me two elec antennas in a box. One worked the other didn't. So cleaned and lubed the good one and installed it in the back. Made sure I had a good ground connection to the body.

    The big event was putting in the exhaust and intake manifold. I wanted to put in a new air galley, but could not locate one. MSA said they would not have any for a couple months, and I did not want to wait that long. So, I got some high temp paint ($8) that looked close to the zinc and will go with that for now. It's a little bright, but hopefully it will tone down in time. I should be able to zinc the other carb parts and assemble in the next week or so.
    I love the fuel line insulation. I plan on installing it all back on the car along with the flat tops. It's so retro and not something you see every day.

    Got a much needed radiator from Cam, another classiczcar member who actually has more Z's than me. We had a great time talking Z's. I could of stayed there for a couple hours checking out cars and parts but had the wife with me and needed to finish Christmas shopping. Got the Radiator for $65. Also picked up a longer drive shaft to put on the yellow Z.

    Total cost for the silver resto is now $5302. (This does not include gas money for hunting down part)
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  68. #68
    Registered User grnsky's Avatar
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    Looking sharp Rich, very sharp!
    None of mine are that clean either!
    I have spare pairs of flat tops too, lol

  69. #69
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    Man, I am so jealous of this build. Keep it up and please keep posting pictures.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  70. #70
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    I am going the same route this winter.
    My 72 is black.
    Original colour is 901 silver with red interior.
    I have started to dissassemble in preparation for the trip to my brothers body shop.
    The pictures and story in this thread give me incentive.
    Great looking car!

    I am taking pictures and will start a thread shortly.

    Casey

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    Thanks for all the kind words and support everyone. I can't wait to get this up and running, and it is oh so close. I should have some extra days off over the holidays so I can make a lot of progress then. I'll keep posting progress.

    Thanks Again,
    Rich

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    Default Zinc Day

    Spent most of the day zincing parts for the intake manifold. Boy, there is a lot of tubing on this baby. Guess that's why most people dont care for the flat tops. Will clean up the carbs in the next day or two and hopefully have them on by this weekend. Also got the radiator painted and in. It's progressing.

    Got the '70 back from the Museum. Sadly, the DHM will be closing it's doors by the the end of January 2011. Very happy to have the 70 back, I missed it.
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  73. #73
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    My word, that is pretty!
    '72 Fairlady 240Z-L - HS30-10052, Imported in 1973 from Yokota Airbase
    '70 240Z - HLS30-19927, History in SCCA CP & Trans-Am, ICSCC CIP, IMSA GTU
    '77 Porsche 930 Turbo Carrera - Black on black
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    Default Clean carbs

    Carbs are just about ready to install which is great news. I picked up a pair of sweet looking flattops from 'grnsky' for just $20, such a deal. (My old ones would have required quite a bit of work to prep - but I will keep them as spares). The zinc looked good on the new ones, so no reason to re-zinc. I just cleaned them up with a little lacquer thinner and Nevr Dull. I polished the domes and then mounted the carbs temporarily in place. I want to re-zinc the bar in the center before I do the final install.

    Its nice to see the progress. Attached is a picture of the old carbs and the original engine bay.

    Also picked up some small parts from MSA. I got 10 black interior rivets, some plug wire clips and the door lock knobs. Total with shipping was $42.

    Total cost is now at $5364
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  75. #75
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    Why the flat tops?

  76. #76
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    I admire your attention to period correct detail, ie: insulation, flat tops, etc...

    Bonzi Lon
    1973 HLS30-168500
    1968 SPL311-18100
    1969 HLS30-000110 SOLD Shipped to Dubai UAE
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    Ones and Zeros

    "We drive only blue cars." Dishwalla

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    Quote Originally Posted by tlorber View Post
    Why the flat tops?
    Glad you asked. There are actually several reasons for going with the flat tops.
    1. I want to keep the car as original as financially feasible.
    2. I like the fact that they are somewhat rare as most people have ditched them in place of the round tops.
    3. I used this car for about 6 months with the flat tops as my daily driver and did not have any problems once I got the needles set right, so I am happy with their operation ( I figured the needles out in the first couple weeks of driving).
    4. I think that insulation stuff is a unique and odd engineering solution to the vapor lock issue. (I would have done something different like adding vents to the service doors to improve air flow in the engine compartment).

    So that's why the flat tops.

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    Do you mind sharing what brand of insulation you used? Are my eyes messing with me or did you use gold colored zip types to match the zinc?
    '72 Fairlady 240Z-L - HS30-10052, Imported in 1973 from Yokota Airbase
    '70 240Z - HLS30-19927, History in SCCA CP & Trans-Am, ICSCC CIP, IMSA GTU
    '77 Porsche 930 Turbo Carrera - Black on black
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    Quote Originally Posted by spitz17 View Post
    Do you mind sharing what brand of insulation you used? Are my eyes messing with me or did you use gold colored zip types to match the zinc?
    The insulation and zip ties are all the original parts. I just used a little Windex to clean the insulation. ( I wonder if there is asbestos in that stuff. I will make sure not to eat it or chew on it )
    The zip ties are just real old. They are kind of vanilla colored in person. I was thinking of replacing them with new ones, but really haven't searched to see if they are available. I think I will just leave them as they are for now. Although, if I could find some NOS ties in good/white condition I would probably replace them.

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    Looking great! I bet there aren't many examples of well running flat tops in such presentable condition. My hats off to you. I remembered reading about two different types of insulating wrap that was used in the "Modification Plus" manual, so I looked it up. I have a couple of them in storage that I am keeping just for reference.
    Last edited by geezer; 02-14-2011 at 10:01 PM.

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    Wow, Per that document, that insulation is asbestos inside and out. Guess I'll need to keep the hood closed when not working on the motor. That should help

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  82. #82
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    Rich,

    It sure is! Be careful. I recommend wearing a mask when around it. Your engine fan is blowing air right over it when you have the hood open. You don't want to be breathing those particles.

    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobc View Post
    I recommend wearing a mask when around it. Your engine fan is blowing air right over it when you have the hood open. You don't want to be breathing those particles.

    Bob
    That's a good point, didn't think of that. I am thinking that I will spray some of my high temp clear enamel over the stuff as well to minimize any debris or flaking.

    May have to put warning labels under the hood. You know how things are here in the state of California.

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    Rich, When you want me to drop off my 73 for its refreshing? I really appreciate the wattention to detail you display. I really enjoy stopping to see the progrss as well. Happy New Year to you and your family. I hope you are able to take on another project this year.

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    Thanks David, not sure if I want to do another '73. The plumbing for the flat tops is a bear. I think my next venture will be to the dark side. I want to put an LS1 in the yellow Z.

    Finally got the drivers side door panel on. It is really in great condition-very happy about that. That was one of the best things about this car was the interior, except for the carpet. I held off putting on the panel because I broke the rod that goes from the door handle to the 'unlock' mechanism. Not sure how I did that. So, I went to visit Les at Classic Datsun, and of course he had one. He also had some other hard to find parts like a new smog hose that I really needed. It's great to have his shop so close. Spent $85 there on parts, but $20 was for the yellow Z, so the grand total has now climbed up to $5429.

    Now, this is something that always happens when you are putting a car back together. I was trying to find where I had placed the screw that secures the coil in the bracket. I checked all my labeled baggies, extra parts drawers, shelves, boxes, under rags and such. Over the course of 3 weeks, I am sure I spent over 30 minutes looking for that screw. Anyway, finally gave up and bought a replacement screw from home depot. I put a yellow chromate finish on it and installed the coil. Now to hook up the coil wires. So I go to my picture file of all my 'before' pics to confirm the wiring. As I am looking at the picture, I notice there is a hole where the screw should be. There was no screw there in the first place.

    The other thing that happens all the time; could not find the little cable that goes from the solenoid to the wiring harness. Again, spent at least 20 mins looking for that thing. So, I get a used one from Les when I was at his shop (he actually gave it to me for free since it was in bad shape). I get home and start to fix it up to put it on the car, and what do you know, I find my cable under the zincing crock pot. Of course, I never would have found it had I not picked up one from Les. Not sure why stuff like that happens.

    Anyway, got all the fuel hoses on and most of the plumbing attached. Put the balance tube parts on. Only thing I need to do now is get on the Air box and heater hoses and I am ready to fire it up. Air box needs a bit of work though so may take another week. Eventually I would like to get all wire clamps in the engine bay. Right now it is a mix of wire and standard clamps. Also would like to get all braided hose, but some of that is near impossible to find. Anyway, here is the progress.

    One more thing I am going through big time here is not sure if I can actually sell this now. I love it and it looks really nice in my garage.
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    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
    SPL311-27444 It lives
    http://www.rcdeng.com

  86. #86
    ZCCIV Webmaster motorman7's Avatar
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    Default Almost ready to start :-)

    Well, we are getting close here. Spent the last couple days cleaning up hoses, repainting the air box and zincing some final parts. Got the smog pump in and all the attachments.

    The hoses on this thing are a small nightmare. It is hard to find hoses for a '73 anywhere. I was able to get the smog pump 'Air In' hose from Classic Datsun, but that is it. The PCV hose and 'Air Out' smog hose were in bad shape. So, I got some cloth tape from Home Depot and tried to wrap them similar to the hose I got from Classic Datsun. Not a perfect match, but much better than the old look. I did get the air box on and all the 'millions' of hoses hooked up. Need to get Decals for a '73 if available. Need two for the radiator and one smaller rectangular for the air box. Also need to get the gold decals that go on underside of the hood if possible

    I put oil in the motor and gas in the tank and cranked it over. Unfortunately no quick start. Didn't have much time to check why (movie night) so will work on that another day. Hopefully I can be driving this around next week. Really love how this has turned out. Once the motor is up and running, I will work on cleaning up the underside.
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    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
    SPL311-27444 It lives
    http://www.rcdeng.com

  87. #87
    Z Club of San Diego Montezuma's Avatar
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    Nice work Rich, looking forward to seeing the finished product. I was up by your house yesterday, my daughter's 22nd birthday lunch at Stone Bistro. I really wante to call on you but had the family in tow, they don t seem to share my Z passion. They are all women, that might have something to do with it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Montezuma View Post
    they don t seem to share my Z passion. They are all women, that might have something to do with it.
    I don't think anyone in the family has the same passion as me, but then again, I have probably gone off the deep end. My wife and daughter do like going to the shows. Actually got my wife to drive the '71 Z to the Vista show while I drove the '70. They usually crochet or read while I chat with people at the show. While I was touring the show, they actually filled in for me and answered questions that people would ask about the cars. My daughter likes the shows more than my son and she has a little bit better taste. Once I get the silver one done I can bring three to the shows. Will make it a big family event. Now, if we only had more events. May have to move to the east coast for that.

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
    SPL311-27444 It lives
    http://www.rcdeng.com

  89. #89
    Registered User rtaylor's Avatar
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    Maybe we should start our own event Rich. "Build it and they will come."

    We could call it hte R&R Datsun Motorcar Extravaganza. The RRDME. lol
    Last edited by rtaylor; 01-19-2011 at 10:47 AM.
    Randy Taylor
    2/71 240z

    HLS30-23242

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by motorman7 View Post
    I put oil in the motor and gas in the tank and cranked it over. Unfortunately no quick start.
    Found the problem; oil pump/distributor rod was 180 degrees off. Pulled the distributor, dropped the oil pump and rotated the shaft 180 (lower, rotate, lift) using a pair of needle nose pliers. Re-assembled. The whole process took only 15 minutes, much less than I thought. Turned the key and got a short 2 second run of the motor. Went to the carbs and fully tightened the big screw on the left flat top. Turned the key again and the car started right up- very nice. Took out my Uni-syn and balanced the idle air flow, so idle is running nice.

    I increased the throttle to adjust high RPM air flow and got a screeching from the smog pump belt and some light backfires so I shut the motor down. Ran out of time, so figure I will do final tuning of the carbs on Saturday. Nice to have it idling well, that's a big step. Should be able to take this out on the streets Saturday. I can't wait. Just need to put gear oil in the trans and fill and bleed the brakes and clutch. There are still some interior items to take care of, but nothing that will keep me from driving the car.

    The amazing thing is that there are no water leaks. Was kind of surprised as I was expecting at least one or two with all the hoses and fittings on this motor.

    Got some great wire hose clamps from grnsky for my hoses. Now they will all match. Will clean those up, re-zinc them and install in the next week or two.

    Total project cost is now $5450. $15 for 10 wire clamps (such a deal) and $6 for the hose tape. Definitely looking great for the money I have into it.

    Quote Originally Posted by rtaylor View Post
    Maybe we should start our own event Rich. "Build it and they will come."

    We could call it hte R&R Datsun Motorcar Extravaganza. The RRDME. lol
    Yes, I have 3 to enter. That's a good start. I am really hoping that MSA pulls through with a show similar to the 2009 show. That one was awesome and huge – twice the size of ZCON. I contacted Joseph at MSA and offered our club’s (ZCCIV) support if he runs a similar event in 2011. We could provide a number of volunteers to help out. I will try and get all the SoCal Z clubs to support if moves in this direction. Otherwise, I will just keep going to the local Rod shows with my ‘Furin cars’.

    Rich

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
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  91. #91
    Supporting Member 240dkw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by motorman7 View Post
    Need to get Decals for a '73 if available. Need two for the radiator and one smaller rectangular for the air box. Also need to get the gold decals that go on underside of the hood if possible
    Rich: is this one of the hood decals you need, it is off a canadian car, not sure if they are the same.
    Dan
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    See below...double post..
    Last edited by cygnusx1; 01-22-2011 at 06:23 PM.
    Dave C, Putnam, NY
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    You can buy nylon "stockings" for the hoses that looks half way decent. I use it on most of my hoses when I build. It comes in colors but of course black is what you want. It's a bit glossy but if you hit it with a little bit of flat black after you slip it over the hoses, it looks pretty good.

    Here you can see it on my heater hose in its original gloss.



    I think I bought a generic braiding kit from Summit but I don't see it listed anymore. Here is another source http://www.electricalhub.com/braided...FQY65QodXV6cIw
    Last edited by cygnusx1; 01-22-2011 at 06:23 PM.
    Dave C, Putnam, NY
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    Default Up and running :-)

    I am really thrilled here. Got the motor running nicely with just a few tweeks. Tightened the alternator belt to get rid of the bad Screech on acceleration. Added oil to the flat tops and that took care of the back firing. Motor revs nice and smooth and runs great (I like my flat tops ). Got the Oil in the trans, fluid in clutch and brake cylinders and bled both.

    Took it for a spin around the neighborhood and promptly lost the fender emblem. Spent almost an hour retracing my tracks but couldn't find it. Will check e-bay to see what I can find. May buy 2 just to have a back up.

    Well, since I got it going, had to take a mini photo shoot. Unfortunately the sun was setting pretty fast so pictures aren't the best, but not bad. I like the colors together.

    Was able to clean up the license plate pretty well. used scoth brite and a coat of clear to make it look descent. The bottom and sides were pretty rusty so ended up rubbing through the paint in some areas. Hopefully the frame will hide some of that.

    Garage is looking nice with 3 Z's. Wife hasn't complained yet about me booting her car out.

    Quote Originally Posted by 240dkw View Post
    Rich: is this one of the hood decals you need, it is off a canadian car, not sure if they are the same.
    Dan
    I think they are different. Under the hood, mine had two gold decals with a lot of writing.


    Quote Originally Posted by cygnusx1 View Post
    You can buy nylon "stockings" for the hoses that looks half way decent. I use it on most of my hoses when I build. It comes in colors but of course black is what you want. It's a bit glossy but if you hit it with a little bit of flat black after you slip it over the hoses, it looks pretty good.

    I think I bought a generic braiding kit from Summit but I don't see it listed anymore. Here is another source http://www.electricalhub.com/braided...FQY65QodXV6cIw
    After doing inventory of my hoses, I found that I have most of the original braided hoses. I even have the original heater hoses. I am thinking I will save up for a bit and pop for Espirit's hoses at MSA. I have them on my '70 and they are beautiful. They would look nice on this one.
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    Last edited by motorman7; 01-23-2011 at 07:36 PM.

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
    SPL311-27444 It lives
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    Haha, thumbs up, the pair look great together! The first thing I did when I fired up my second Z, was to take it up the block and back. The second thing was to mount the hood. The third thing was to park it next to my other Z and take photos.

    Dave C, Putnam, NY
    NYZCC - Membership Director

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  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by cygnusx1 View Post
    Haha, thumbs up, the pair look great together! The first thing I did when I fired up my second Z, was to take it up the block and back. The second thing was to mount the hood. The third thing was to park it next to my other Z and take photos.

    Yes, couldn't wait to take it for a drive and get some pics. I love driving it around.

    Well, since I shouldn't have much more in the way of expenses, I popped for two new fender emblems from 'Parts for my Nissan' on e-bay ($95 for the pair after tax and shipping). I called the number of the seller and got Tustin Nissan so the emblems should be pretty nice. Cost for the project is now at $5545. The emblems arrive today, so hopefully I can put these babies on SECURELY and drive the car to work tomorrow.

    I estimate that I still have about two months worth of work to do (weekends mostly) on the car and then it should be pretty much done. I need to fix the center console and install the old AM radio. Then I will work on the underside and clean up the gas tank, rear suspension paint, front disc shields, etc,and undercoating touch -up.

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
    SPL311-27444 It lives
    http://www.rcdeng.com

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    Thats a pretty tight budget. The red one I just resto-freshed last Winter cost me right around that figure as well, plus cost of the car, but I didn't paint it. I was able to buff it out. I figure I have a grand total between 7k and 8k into it. I need to add up the stuff someday...or not.
    Dave C, Putnam, NY
    NYZCC - Membership Director

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    1972 240Z RESTOmod
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    ZCCIV Webmaster motorman7's Avatar
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    Default Retro Radio

    Continued work on the interior. Fixing two cracks in the center console with gorilla glue and some plastic strips on the inside for strength. Used some epoxy on the outsid to fill the cracks. Will paint with the black outdoor furniture paint as discussed in the console restoration thread.

    Took out the PO's Kenwood cassette player and installed my retro radio. Quite a chore to put this guy in. Was able to install the radio without completely disassembling the heater control panel. I did, however, undo all four panel screws and pulled it out about an inch. By removing the fuse box and lower U channel that support the console, I was able to squeeze it in. Looks great and powers up nicely.

    Now back to the console. Hopefully I can get that in this week.
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    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
    SPL311-27444 It lives
    http://www.rcdeng.com

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    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cygnusx1 View Post
    You can buy nylon "stockings" for the hoses that looks half way decent. I use it on most of my hoses when I build. It comes in colors but of course black is what you want. It's a bit glossy but if you hit it with a little bit of flat black after you slip it over the hoses, it looks pretty good.

    Here you can see it on my heater hose in its original gloss.



    I think I bought a generic braiding kit from Summit but I don't see it listed anymore. Here is another source http://www.electricalhub.com/braided...FQY65QodXV6cIw
    OH, is that a BRE remote oil filter I see. VERY nice.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  100. #100
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    Default Radio Works :-)

    Washed the Z as it had about 3 months worth of dust on it and took it for a spin around the neighborhood. The car is very smooth and quiet. I am surprised that the original mufflers are still working well. Shocks are not bad either. The ride and noise (fairly quiet) are about the same as the '70. I am very happy with the ride.

    Turned on the radio, ran the antenna up and I got music-YES! I really am not sure what year car the stereo came out of but it has FM stereo. The word 'stereo' lights up in red when I am getting and FM stereo station. Very cool.

    Took one photo outside in the sun. Will send the Pic to Hagerty's along with a motor pic for insurance documentation.
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    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
    SPL311-27444 It lives
    http://www.rcdeng.com

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