240 alt swap questions?

[yakhopper]

I decided to swap out the alt in my 240 for the more efficient 280 model but before I ordered the adaptor I read a post about a problem with such adaptor.
My questions are:
1. Have they remidied these problems and it is working fine?
2. Is there another (better) way to convert the alt?
3. Would it be best to stay with the original setup at this time (till all the bugs are worked out)?
4. If I do this swap would it compromise the rest of the wiring harness?
I would like to keep her mostly stock with only mods that would make her a more dependable as a daily driver as my doughter (18) will likley be driving her also.
Thanks for any insight into this swap,
Eric

[jfa.series1]

Eric,
My understanding of this is that these are two distinct upgrades. The 280 alternator is a direct swap for the 240, you get more 50% more juice with the later model if you make no other changes.

I presume the adapter you are talking about is the replacement for the mechanical voltage regulator, another stand-alone upgrade. I think the posts reporting problems were from some time ago, I don't know if problems continue with otherwise stock wiring harness.

FWIW, I'm planning both upgrades (already purchased) and additional electrical upgrades such as the harness to shift the headlight load away from the combo switch. None of these are yet installed, no real-world experience to report.

Jim

[Zed Head]

I decided to swap out the alt in my 240 for the more efficient 280 model but before I ordered the adaptor I read a post about a problem with such adaptor.
My questions are:
1. Have they remidied these problems and it is working fine?
2. Is there another (better) way to convert the alt?
3. Would it be best to stay with the original setup at this time (till all the bugs are worked out)?
4. If I do this swap would it compromise the rest of the wiring harness?
I would like to keep her mostly stock with only mods that would make her a more dependable as a daily driver as my doughter (18) will likley be driving her also.
Thanks for any insight into this swap,
Eric

Here is the latest on the "issue." - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=39259

You don't have to compromise the harness. You can make your own jumpers at the harness plug. That is essentially what the adapter does, plus it comes with a diode pre-installed to prevent run-on.

Atlanticz and zcarcreations both have write-ups on doing your own harness modifications, but the adapter seems like the easiest, cleanest way to go.

[yakhopper]

Thanks for the insight guys,
I'll be ordering the adaptor tomorrow and doing the mod next weekend (weather and shipping permitting).
Is there any others mods to improve the electrical system (looking for future projects) that I should seriously concider. I already plan on going with the LED lights but that will have to wait for now.
Thanks again,
Eric

[SteveJ]

Upgrade the headlights with relays. MSA sells a set designed by Dave, aka Zs-ondabrain.

[jfa.series1]

Eric,
In addition to the alternator and adapter upgrades, here are some other electrical upgrades you should strongly consider. I am listing those from MSA for convenience, some may be available from other sources such as Dave's headlight harness.

Headlight relay and harness:
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SRC19/12-4651

Parking light relay and harness:
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SRC19/12-4652

Fuse box (70-71 long pigtail):
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SRC19/50-5011

Fuse box (72-73 short pigtail):
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SRC19/50-5010

I have the fuse box, it is a nice piece of work.

Hope this helps.

No affiliation with MSA.

Jim

[SteveJ]

There isn't much of a need to do the parking light relay harness AND LEDs for exterior lights. The LEDs drop the current load so much that there is not much of a load on the circuit.

Also, once either LEDs or parking light relays are installed, there isn't much need to change out the fusebox unless the fusebox is already damaged. Most of the fuseboxes that melt down do so on the parking light circuit.

[Zs-ondabrain]

The 240Z alternator Upgrade plug (ZXP) is only an issue with the 73' 240Z's that use their electric fuel pump and have the dual relay set-up. The issue has been resolved by others by means of disconnecting the Yellow wire at the relay (on the passenger side) and connecting both ends of the cut wire into a switch to cut power when the car is not in use. Others have wired it into an Oil Pressure switch that only activates the relay when oil pressure is present, and shuts it off when oil pressure is lost. For safety matters.

Unless your fusebox is melted thru, you can still use it in conjunction with the Parking light upgrade harness. And The LED taillight conversion is Both a great idea to minimize voltage loss and resistance AND to upgrade to brighter, cleaner, longer lasting, safer taillights. Both Upgrades can be used for an even better lighting and less power consumption benefit.

I use 100,000 hour, 18,000mcd LED's in my taillight conversions, so they will last a long time, compared to standard glass bulbs. I still charge $275 for 240Z taillights, $125 for front maker conversins and $80 for the LED Sidemarker inserts.

Customers who have done the LED conversion, and later done the Parking light upgrade have reported another increase in brightness in the taillights, dash lights and front and side marker lights. and severe amperage drops thru the PL fuse in the fusebox.

And we are affiliated with MSA as they are one of our Proud sponsers and we're happy to have them here at CZCC.

Dave

[yakhopper]

Thanks again for the great info.

Dave,
If I'm understanding you correctly the adaptor should work fine in my 71 240. If this is the case will I still have to connect the yellow wire through the switch. Also I will be mainly just changing bulbs and flashers - is there still a need to upgrade the harness? Yes the fuse block and all wires are in great shape. I will however be upgrading the headlights in the future as time and money allows.
Eric

[SteveJ]

For incandescent bulbs, light output will drop proportionally to voltage. According to this reference, dropping the voltage by 5% drops light output by 20%. That means you're getting 80% of the light at 13.3 volts that you would at 14 volts. It's not unusual to have a 2 to 3 volt drop at the headlights. That's a drop of 14 to 21% in voltage. (Attached is a chart I pulled from this study.)

If you're going to drive at night in a 40 year old car, add relays to the headlight circuit!

For LEDs, light output is also proportional to voltage up to a point, so a parking light relay harness can improve light output. (For the record, I have no idea at what point a voltage increase does not increase light output.)

[Zs-ondabrain]

Thanks again for the great info.

Dave,
If I'm understanding you correctly the adaptor should work fine in my 71 240. If this is the case will I still have to connect the yellow wire through the switch. Also I will be mainly just changing bulbs and flashers - is there still a need to upgrade the harness? Yes the fuse block and all wires are in great shape. I will however be upgrading the headlights in the future as time and money allows.
Eric

The adaptor was designed to work in YOUR z, it's only the 73's with electric fuel pump and dual relay set-up that needs to worry about any issues.
So no, you don't need to worry about the yellow wire.

As for upgrading to the Parking light and headlight upgrades, I personally think it's a neccesity. It's just a matter of time before regular driving and use of the parking lights, wears the wires, connectors, fuseblock and contacts in the switch, down to a bad state. resistance is what you get after 40 years of use, sitting around, etc.

You can only do your car a world of good by installing the upgrades. I will personally never own another Z without installing the relay upgrades. It's just safer and better for the car and it's electrical system.

Dave

[yakhopper]

Thanks again,
I really appreciate the help and advise I have recieved here.
I will be doing the light mods as I get past other issues.
Looks like I have another problem I need to tend to first - The valves have a loud tick so I was going to adjust them but found a problem when i removed the valve cover. The oil feed tube above the cam followers has come off on the end piece and may have caused a flat spot on the cam. I will try to get a pic tomorrow of the damage but the cast part that holds it to the head is also bent. I have looked for a part # but can't find a mention of it anywhere.

So I have a couple more questions:
1. Does anyone have a seggestion of where or how I can get a replacement oil feed tube?
2. If the cam needs work should I have the valvers done also?
3. why are January's always so cold and gloomy in Calif.?

Thanks again,
Eric

[Zs-ondabrain]

Cause you're still too North of the Equator. Sorry.

Almost anyone with a used head should have an oiler for ya.

[yakhopper]

Thanks Dave you've been a great help.
If you're ever in central Calif give me a shout and dinner is on me.
Eric