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Thread: Good for restoration?

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    Default Good for restoration?

    Hi
    I am new to this forum. I am originally from Ontario Canada where most of our Z's are rusting in pieces.
    I had a Z 25 years ago that was in bad shape, I replaced the rockers floors and frames only to make a Z that was somewhat nice. After moving to California 15 years ago I promised myself If I ever move back to Ontario I would bring something back that I would pluck from the AZ desert. After some searching I found this one, something like this back home would be imposable to find or if you did it would be worth big bucks even the way she sits. I must also find a 510 while here to bring back, I have a half a year to do so, but I am drifting from the Z

    To all you guys that have done serious major restorations, I would like your thoughts on this one, is this something that is still good enough to be considered for restoration? It does have its flaws like the bumper bracket mounts being damaged from a accident, but it did not get damaged past the radiator mount, the interior is really bad but its all bolt up stuff, the car is actually amazingly straight. My plan is to get this on the rotisserie for a complete restoration. The floor other than a few small holes is all there but it has been buckled up a bit, passenger side a little worse than drivers side.
    The pic of the engine compartment looks as if the frames are all rotted out but the are actually covered in oil, undercoating and dirt but they are very healthy. There is a dent on the passenger side frame where the motor mounts that concerns me, it should not be there.
    The passenger door has a small rust hole maybe 1/2" diameter on it, the drivers door is a little worse with rust on the front and back on the bottom of the door, I would like to save the doors just because of how straight they are.
    So that about the major issues, please let me know your thoughts on this car.
    Yes, the mags have to go.
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    Last edited by Eddy167; 07-20-2012 at 01:07 PM.

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    A few more pics
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    Last edited by Eddy167; 07-20-2012 at 01:10 PM.

  3. #3
    Registered User d240zx2's Avatar
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    What's the price?
    First & Third owner of HLS30-00721
    B. 01/70 D. 03/12

    New owner of HLS30-15653
    B. 12/70 D.

    Frank in Houston, Texas

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    I got it for 775

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    Brian
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    Looks good for a restoration to me from what I can see. Good price.

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    Yes, that's a fair price. I was hoping you didn't pay too much, 'cause that car needs a lotta work....
    First & Third owner of HLS30-00721
    B. 01/70 D. 03/12

    New owner of HLS30-15653
    B. 12/70 D.

    Frank in Houston, Texas

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    Well I am not the type to sit in front of the TV or go to bars, but I must keep myself busy, if I am not working on something I am not happy. I have no problem doing the work just want to make sure it's worth doing the work to it. This in comparison to what I did with my 71 20 some years ago will be less work, if there was no one out there that enjoyed doing this kind of work there would be no Z's left. Putting the price and amount of work aside any constructive criticism?

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    Registered User grantf's Avatar
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    That's a keeper IMHO.
    1977 280z
    1974 260z long gone

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    Any good tricks to straighten out the floor? I have looked at about 20 other 240's and to my surprise it seems the dream of getting one with straight floors and frames are not good. That said the body's on them seemed in great shape at least from a distance, upon closer look they to needed a bunch of work, I would rather get something sort of untouched than something that had been worked over and you cant tell whats under the paint until you start stripping it. I guess if I was to pay 10 or 15K I could get one that has good straight frames and floors.

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    Registered User mjr45's Avatar
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    I think I would try to straighten the drivers side floor pan, use a hammer and mollies to get it fairly straight, once its covered with new sound proofing and the underside is painted and coated it would look OK, the passenger side I would replace the frame rail and floor pan. The rest of the car looks pretty good and with some time and work could be able to make the trip to Canada. Just my 2 cents.
    75 280Z almost done
    49 Chevy 3100 p/u next project
    96 Dodge 2500 4X4 tows my 5th wheel

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    Its going to be put on a trailer and sent back home where the work will begin, I am still looking for something better if one comes up, this is a really early model which makes me want to keep it, well see
    It would be a job to fix the passenger side, still better than dealing with a floor that's rotted right out

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    Registered User mjr45's Avatar
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    Yup, I had to replace the driver side floor pan and frame rail, I could put my feet thru it, just like the Flintstone mobile, wasn't a fun job, but doable. I learned how to weld (not very well) to do the job.
    75 280Z almost done
    49 Chevy 3100 p/u next project
    96 Dodge 2500 4X4 tows my 5th wheel

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    Wish I could find one in that good of shape over here for that price. You got a good deal. That is a solid foundation to start from but as far as straight floors they are few and far between. I'm glad to see another one being saved! Keep up the good work!

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    I have yet to see one with straight floors and frames, I thought there would be a lot to choose from, I was wrong. I have seen many z's in the 7-10k range they look great on the outside but with floors and frames worse than mine, if I plan to put it on the rotisserie anyway there is no sense paying big $$$ to have one that looks great on the outside only to strip down anyway. Other than the drivers fender that has a dent on top and has been bondoed over, this car is very straight with no other work done to it anywhere. The hunt for a better one continues, that said I am happy to have this one. Do you guys think the passenger side floor could be fixed and made to look good? If it takes me 10 times longer to fix it then replacing it I am ok with that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddy167 View Post
    Its going to be put on a trailer and sent back home where the work will begin, I am still looking for something better if one comes up, this is a really early model which makes me want to keep it, well see
    It would be a job to fix the passenger side, still better than dealing with a floor that's rotted right out
    Eddy,

    When you get back to Ontario look up the OntarioZcar club at http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/index.php . We would all love to follow your resto project. Where in Ontario are you going.?

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    Oh very cool, it would be great to have some local hook ups for parts etc. I am going back to Guelph, where are you?

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    Can anyone tell me why the front bumper doesn't have rubber around it and the back does? Which one is right?
    I was getting ready to send them for re chroming when I noticed this and I thought I should figure this out first.

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    Is it an original Matching Number car? I don't see an engine nor do you mention that. I wouldn't put the money into a true Restoration without it having its original engine.

    Hard to tell from the pictures - but the rear wheel arches look like they have been reworked in the past - I don't see the factory spot welds showing. I'd check that area carefully - as rear Quarters are expensive - and too often they have been screwed up by poor body work.

    Initial price seems good - you can expect to spend $25K ++ in addition to your own labor. Some of the parts needed to actually "Restore" a Series I car are getting somewhat EXPENSIVE now...


    FWIW,
    Carl B.

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    The engine is out of the car and apart, it is not the original engine. Most of the Z's I have seen have 280 blocks in them, is it that important to have the original engine? Other than the front fender having Bondo in it and one paint job that looks like it was done 20 years ago there is no other body work on the car, the quarter panels have all the spot welds in the wheel wells and in the bumper indentation, with not work done to them at all. Its hard to see the condition in the pictures.

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    Here are a few more pictures of the quarter panel.
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    I am in Whitby which is east of Toronto, however, I am very familiar with Guelph as I spent 6 years at the University of Guelph. I also go by there quite a bit as my parents live in Kitchener (just west of Guelph). You will definitely want to hook up with one of our members that lives in Kitchener. His name is Laverne (Ont240 is his forum name on our site). He has been into zcars from the very beginning and has 3 beautifully restored 240z's. He also still loves to work on them on the side.

    Cheers,
    Colin
    Last edited by colinc; 07-22-2012 at 02:23 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddy167 View Post
    The engine is out of the car and apart, it is not the original engine. Most of the Z's I have seen have 280 blocks in them, is it that important to have the original engine?
    If you are using the term "Restore" to mean - put back to its original as built condition. In a word - Yes having the original engine in the car matters a lot. It is very important as it relates to its future resale value.

    If resale value in the future nor winning Shows matters - then no it doesn't matter.

    A near perfectly Restored 240Z might sell for $25K to $35K today.
    A near perfectly Refreshed 240Z with non-matching numbers might sell for $16K to $18K today.

    A near perfectly Restored 240Z might sell for $35K to $45K in three to five years.
    A near perfectly Refreshed 240Z with non-matching numbers might sell for $16K to $18K in three to five years.

    It seems that in general - Collector / Museum Quality Examples of Classic Cars keep going up in value and at a much faster rate - than modified cars. Swapping out the original engine is a major modification. Not having it at all - is even worse for the future - as it can never be returned to Pure Stock.

    You just don't want to put tooooo much money in a refresh or restoration - without some consideration of what you could expect / hope to get back out if necessary. Any way I look at it - If I'm going to put the work into the car along with $25K or more of my cash - - - I'd want to put it into something with a higher potential for returning most of my money in the future, even if nothing for my time.

    FWIW,
    Carl B.

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    Colin I will have to hook up with your friend in Kitchener when I am back
    Carl, I am more doing this for myself and not to sell. Is the serial number for the engine on the block at the back of the engine just under the cylinder head? Is there more value for lower Vin numbers? Mine is 02429 its pretty low I don't know if that matters at all, like I say I am just doing more for myself then to sell.
    Last edited by Eddy167; 07-22-2012 at 02:09 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by colinc View Post
    I am in Whitby which is east of Toronto, however, I am very familiar with Guelph as I spent 6 years at the University of Guelph. I also go by there quite a bit as my parents live in Kitchener (just west of Guelph). You will definitely want to hook up with one of our members that lives in Kitchener. His name is Laverne (Ont240 is his forum name on our site). He has been into zcars from the very beginning and has 3 beautifully restored 240z's. He also still loves to work on them on the side.

    Cheers,
    Colin
    Keeping with the theme of this thread I woud like to correct my last post. Laverne has 3 240z's (2 restored [Iwould assume numbers matching] and 1 totally modified [he has some kind of huge V8 in that thing]).

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    I am not going to do anything to wild to the engine, just a few minor things and that's it, I just want a nice clean crisp 240.
    Any ideas why the differences on the bumpers?

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    Just a plug for Laverne

    He keeps my car running beautiful.

    Casey

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    That is a low engine number.

    Bonzi Lon
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    Oops sorry, that is the cars VIN number

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddy167 View Post
    I am not going to do anything to wild to the engine, just a few minor things and that's it, I just want a nice clean crisp 240.
    Any ideas why the differences on the bumpers?
    Not sure exactly what you mean about rubber around the front and back bumpers. The link below should help with identifying parts.

    http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun...9/Default.aspx
    Last edited by colinc; 07-23-2012 at 05:20 PM.

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    Good web site, didn't know about that. I looked it over, am I right that neither the back or front should have the rubber on it? Or am I misinterpreting it?

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    Its number

    13 RUBBER-BIMPER FRONT
    as they call it

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