Results 1 to 34 of 34

Thread: How did I do? I'm a little scared...

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-30059
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Castle Rock Colorado
    Age
    27
    Posts
    4

    Default How did I do? I'm a little scared...

    Ok, so I just recently purchased my first Z. It's a 1977 280z (and what is believed to be a "ZAP" edition) I paid $800 for her, she runs fairly well for a '77 and drives OK. The issues: She is rusted.. roof has spots all over, rust along the top of the hatch glass, large rust spot behind the passenger side "little glass" lol, rear passenger fender, and worst of all the frame, which is pretty bad.. the floor pans, engine bay, spare tire area, wheel wells, and battery spot all seem to be ok from what I've seen. The motor is great I've already replaced some vacuum lines and re-did the fusible wires because the kid that owned it before me had it wired up all sketchy with some speaker wire that kept shorting out, and would allow the car to either die or not start at all but now it starts every time! I have a new exhaust for it already since the one on it now is all rusted out and falling apart, I have a new brake master cylinder, and ordered the Bad Dog frame rails. I'm also going to have a valve adjustment done. The interior is pretty nice with everything intact all the way down to the cigarette lighter which actually works! I just wanted to know what you guys thought as I am completely new to the forums as well as the "Z" world. With all the parts purchased including the car itself I'm in it $1400 (so far lol). I have a buddy that welds for a living who's willing to do the frame for free and another buddy that's a mechanic that is giving me really good rates to do some of the work. I'll try and attach a few photos (sorry for the poor quality). Let me know what you think! And think you so much for taking your time to read this!!Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 1.JPG 
Views:	31 
Size:	101.4 KB 
ID:	69381Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 2.JPG 
Views:	37 
Size:	111.6 KB 
ID:	69382Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 3.JPG 
Views:	34 
Size:	81.7 KB 
ID:	69383Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 4.JPG 
Views:	38 
Size:	116.5 KB 
ID:	69384Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 5.JPG 
Views:	46 
Size:	113.0 KB 
ID:	69385Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 6.JPG 
Views:	35 
Size:	128.2 KB 
ID:	69386Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 7.JPG 
Views:	38 
Size:	74.5 KB 
ID:	69387Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 8.JPG 
Views:	48 
Size:	116.5 KB 
ID:	69388Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 9.JPG 
Views:	39 
Size:	119.9 KB 
ID:	69389

  2. #2
    Registered User Jeff G 78's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7975
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Northville, Michigan
    Age
    54
    Posts
    1,895

    Default

    Welcome! Rust is always the enemy. Many of us started out with Z cars like yours and eventually learned to buy rust-free cars instead. You can't go wrong for $800 and it will be a great learning experience, but I don't think I would consider dumping huge money into this particular car. Fix it up cheap and learn everything you can about Z cars from this one. Then, when you are ready, go find a rust free car or a good shell and use all the mechanical parts from this car.

    Rust is a pain to deal with. You will break bolts off constantly, so get good at extracting the twisted-off remains. Soak everything in a good penetrating oil first and use a lot of heat. They will all come 1/2 way out and then snap when you try to pull the rusty exposed bolt threads through the nuts. Trust me, I've been there and have broken more Z bolts than I can count over the past 30 years.
    Last edited by Jeff G 78; 01-23-2014 at 10:17 PM. Reason: typo
    Jeff
    Northville, Michigan
    IZCC #1285
    '78 280 10:1 CR, Arizona Z Car header, urethane bushings, Tokico springs, Illumina struts, Panasports w/Hankook R-S2 225/50R16 tires, Maxima 105 amp alternator
    http://www.classiczcars.com/photopos...00&ppuser=7975
    '74 260Z BRE look-alike crap can for Optima Batteries ChumpCar World Series Racing racing
    https://www.facebook.com/Jeff.Grauer

  3. #3
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-19635
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Posts
    2,787

    Default

    I agree with Jeff. I'd enjoy driving it, but I definitely wouldn't put any money into body work. It would be far cheaper to buy a very nice Z than to fix that one up. But have fun with it! When you find a better one, consider buying it, and sell that one for what you paid.
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-30059
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Castle Rock Colorado
    Age
    27
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Thank you so much! I've already fallen in love with this car (which might be a bad thing haha) but now I can really see why you guys love yours. I think what I'll do is what I've already started and that is to make it dailyable. The BIGGEST issue as you can see is going to be the body. I think I'm going to try and get as much rust out as I can myself or at least try to stop the spreading if I can?? Idk. I just have this overwhelming feeling that I am obligated to fix it. Like I owe the car something because it is just so awesome! haha! What do you think? Do you think it is a true "ZAP"? I mean the paint in the engine bay and trunk, ect. all match what the zaps look like but I'm not entirely sure? Vin check possibly? And if it really is a true "ZAP" is it worth the time, money, and effort? Again, Thank you so much!

    -Ryan

  5. #5
    Registered User Jeff G 78's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7975
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Northville, Michigan
    Age
    54
    Posts
    1,895

    Default

    A rusty Zap is worth no more than any other rusty Z. The only Zap that might be worth more is one with all the decals and factory Zap parts. Even then, I doubt it would be worth much more than a regular '77.
    Jeff
    Northville, Michigan
    IZCC #1285
    '78 280 10:1 CR, Arizona Z Car header, urethane bushings, Tokico springs, Illumina struts, Panasports w/Hankook R-S2 225/50R16 tires, Maxima 105 amp alternator
    http://www.classiczcars.com/photopos...00&ppuser=7975
    '74 260Z BRE look-alike crap can for Optima Batteries ChumpCar World Series Racing racing
    https://www.facebook.com/Jeff.Grauer

  6. #6
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-30059
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Castle Rock Colorado
    Age
    27
    Posts
    4

    Default

    What a shame.. I would just hate to see this car rot before my eyes. Well, any Z really. I've been reading a lot about these cars and kind of lurking around your forums for about a year now, just seeing how much you care for them and checking out all of the awesome rides! And then I just had to have one! But I do see that realistically I'll probably own several more in the future since I'm only 20 but I think I'm just going to enjoy driving this thing a lot! Any way to STOP the spread of rust, or cover it so it doesnt look so god aweful at least? I don't know.. something?

  7. #7
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-19635
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Posts
    2,787

    Default

    OK, well, first off, CONGRATULATIONS! I mean that, because you love your car, and that's what counts. I'm a bit weird, in that I can look at a heap of rust and appreciate the lovely machine underneath. However, really, DON'T go throwing money at the body. You'll just be wasting it. The car is already rotted. You could easily spend twice what a nice Z is worth to restore it. Don't! You don't owe the car anything. I'm just being honest with you.

    If you want to make it look less rotted, give it a bath, scuff sand it, mask it off, pick up a bunch of Rustoleum at Home Depot, and spray away. The rust will reappear, and the car will keep rotting, slowly. However, it might look a bit more decent. I might suggest a semigloss or satin black which might give it a bit of a "rat rod" look and hide the rust patina. And it's easy to match black to black. Most of all, just have fun.

    Oh, and don't worry about the ZZZAP! Any ZZZAP value, if it was ever a ZZZAP, is gone.
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  8. #8
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-19635
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Posts
    2,787

    Default

    Oh, and there's a product called Ospho that will neutralize the rust and slow it down a bit. Use it to "convert" the rust before you paint. And don't go crazy sanding away rust, because you might end up sanding holes into your car.
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  9. #9
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-30059
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Castle Rock Colorado
    Age
    27
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Awesome! Thank you both so so much! I really do love the "Rat Rod" idea and I think that'll only cost MAYBE $100 total But again, Thanks guys! I'll be sure to post pictures in the future and if I have any other issues I'll come running Have a good night!

  10. #10
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-19635
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Posts
    2,787

    Default

    $100 for rattle-can beautification sounds like a good plan! G'nite, and pleasant dreams!
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  11. #11
    It's awesome bartsscooterservice's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-28929
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Gendt, The Netherlands
    Age
    33
    Posts
    857

    Default

    It doesn't have to be really expensive to be a fun driver and still look nice. There's alot of rust on the back as far as I can see on the pictures. If one of your buddies is a welder, he could fix that maybe, don't know his skills.

    I see people do alot of DIY paintjobs in the USA, so maybe that's a cheap option for you ?

    Also I would rent a sand blaster, and just blast the entire car ( really you don't want to go wire brushing or rust converter just doesn't work ), repair the bad spots, and then DIY paintjob... doesn't have to be expensive and will look pretty good.

    But like others members above say, don't spend to much money on this one.
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

    Jay Leno : You know one week after the Americans have walked on the moon, the Japanese introduced this sports car, and…if you’re a car guy pretty equal. I mean walking on the moon was pretty good, but how many times you’d gonna walk on the moon? But here was an affordable sports car that had real performance and looked like it cost a lot more than it did.

  12. #12
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-19635
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Posts
    2,787

    Default

    Well... maaaaaaybe! But if you do repair some of the metal and slather it with a bit of Bondo, you can also take it to the cheapest paint shop (Earl Scheib, Maaco) and have them hose it down with whatever color you like (suggest yellow to match the engine bay) for a few hundred dollars. Or maybe they're more expensive now. Of course you get what you pay for, but for this car, it might be the ticket.

    Sloppy, don't be distracted by that HLS0019 (another thread) that has only half the remaining metal that yours does. That car is special historically, because it was the 19th Z off the assembly line. If it didn't have an extremely early number, it would be pretty worthless, except for parts, of course.
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  13. #13
    Registered User olzed's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-20649
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Auckland. New Zealand.
    Age
    76
    Posts
    1,069

    Default

    There is no way in the world that car should go back on the street, IMHO, unless it has had a complete rebuild by someone compenent, and had the relevant inspections.
    These cars rely on every piece of bodyshell to give strength and hold together. It's a fair bet that the rust he can't see is far worse.
    Last edited by olzed; 01-24-2014 at 02:26 PM.

  14. #14
    Registered User grannyknot's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-26437
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    698

    Default

    Ryan, don't be afraid of working on rust, it's all doable. Yes you will get very dirty but it's a great feeling to save the car.
    I know what you mean by feeling an obligation to fix it properly, when a rusted car falls into my hands, one that is worth saving like yours, I can not be like all the previous owners and keep passing the problem on to the next guy.
    Learning how to do proper rust repair is not that hard and what else were you going to do with your spare time
    Chris
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

  15. #15
    Walmart greeter Mikes Z car's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-18366
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    1,041

    Default

    My first Z had rusty holes in the rocker panels and rusted holes on the wheel well arches next to the lip. I sanded to bare metal and put a thin layer of bondo over both rocker panels and over the wheel wells. Had the car painted and 8 years later when I sold it the rust had not come back and the car still looked great.

  16. #16
    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7115
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Posts
    1,221

    Default

    my concern thing that much rest on the top an outside is how badly rusted is it on the undercarriage. The first thing I'm concerned about is it that amount of rust is the cars actually safe to drive or is it going to fold in on itself. I'm not opposed and thinking that you should get rid of this car in fact this might be a great way to start. first of the car gives you a chance to actually practice and learn skills to repairing it in building a car later on in life. have you thought about buying a shell later on basically you don't find the body and frame of a good car that might be missing an engine transmission or someone tried to get us started restoration of never completed. The reason is you look to have most of the car is running uh it could be a good way to uh actually have a good safe car the future and I spent a ton of money on rust repair. Basically you can build a Frankenstein car if you wanted to you could pick from different years of the dogs and see cars even take any body from 1971 put it on putting your 77 components in mixing things up if you wanted to.

  17. #17
    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7115
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Posts
    1,221

    Default

    I almost forgot congratulations welcome to the Z car world. I think you enjoy working with your car if you do not get frustrating keep your goals realistic.

  18. #18
    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7115
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Posts
    1,221

    Default

    I almost forgot congratulations welcome to the Z car world. I think you enjoy working with your car if you do not get frustrating keep your goals realistic.

  19. #19
    Registered User Stanley's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24191
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Redondo beach
    Posts
    641

    Default

    As long as it runs and stops good you did OK! Def rat rod. As I've been learning from my 63 Chevy, and Neil Young, rust never sleeps. I'm better with fiberglass than welding so I made new door frames for example. Bought a less rusty hood. I use various wire brush attachments on the drill, Ospho (cheaper by the gallon, brush on or garden sprayer), rustoleum, bondo or hi-build primer, lots of sanding. Soon it will rust again. Bondo doesn't work that good if there's rust underneath, after about a year it gets all cracked from the rust underneath. The old truck would be worth tons of money if it was rust free, ha ha.
    At least its lighter from all the rust that's flaked off.
    Maybe polish the cam cover or something, then it will at least look good with the hood up.

  20. #20
    Walmart greeter Mikes Z car's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-18366
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    1,041

    Default

    [QUOTE=Stanley;448889]...
    At least its lighter from all the rust that's flaked off.

    Finally! A performance mod that doesn't cost anything!

  21. #21
    Registered User HaZmatt's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-29861
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Colorado
    Age
    44
    Posts
    160

    Default

    Welcome neighbor! Looks like the previous owner had a vinyl top on it causing all the rust on the roof. The rust can be repaired, but it is very labor intensive and will seem like a never ending project. But thats if you want it done right, if you just want a quick fix, I would suggest repairing the frame rails for safety, then knocking off the rough chunks and coating the rusted areas in POR15 or something similar. This will at least stop or slow down the rust process. Then do a DIY or Maaco paint job. If you ever wanna see what your getting into, let me know. My car is stripped down to the chassis and im in the process of repairing the rust right now.

  22. #22
    Registered User olzed's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-20649
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Auckland. New Zealand.
    Age
    76
    Posts
    1,069

    Default

    The authorities obviously have a far more relaxed approach in US than we do here in NZ.
    That car would not be allowed on the road down here if the rust holes were filled over with bog.

    I saw the result of a rusted out Morris Mini Tboned by a Toyota Crown. 4 dead.
    The Mini literally fell apart. The collision was only at about 40 MPH. the top of the car was completly severed from the floor.
    I realize the Toyota is a much heavier car, but the occupants of the Mini just might have stood a chance if the car had stayed in one piece.

  23. #23
    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7115
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Posts
    1,221

    Default

    NO he will get stopped, but what you tell them is that you were wanting it to look old and worn out and that the car is fine. That will get you out of trouble most times.

  24. #24
    It's awesome bartsscooterservice's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-28929
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Gendt, The Netherlands
    Age
    33
    Posts
    857

    Default

    Do you have pics of the floorboards and front engine bay rails ?
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

    Jay Leno : You know one week after the Americans have walked on the moon, the Japanese introduced this sports car, and…if you’re a car guy pretty equal. I mean walking on the moon was pretty good, but how many times you’d gonna walk on the moon? But here was an affordable sports car that had real performance and looked like it cost a lot more than it did.

  25. #25
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-19635
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Posts
    2,787

    Default

    Olzed, I'm not saying there isn't a hazard from a rusty body. Your story about the Mini is sobering, to say the least! But here in the US, rust isn't generally an issue of concern to inspectors, even though it perhaps SHOULD be.

    Annual inspections are required in most US states, with a list of items that must be certified good. However, in reality these items are just glossed over. Here in Virginia, we pay $16 each year for an inspection, and there are quite a number of points on the inspection list. See here:

    Virginia State Police - Safety Division

    There are no subsidies, so the business doing the inspection must make a profit off of the $16. That means the inspections are cursory at best. Sometimes the car will go on the lift (if it's an older one), and usually it won't. And even when it goes on the lift, the structural integrity of the body is not an inspection issue. The only rust related inspection issue I see is holes in the floor pan that might let exhaust gasses enter the cabin.

    On that point, I had a friend in Texas who had a very old rust-belt car (from Massachusetts). If you were to lift the passenger side floor mat, you could see the ground whizzing by through a hole about the size of a cup saucer. If so inclined, you could put your leg through it and stand on the ground. Even THAT was not an inspection issue! The car passed inspection every year, with an almost obligatory headlight adjustment ($7) and an occasional wiper blade replacement.

    I once had a structural issue in a rust-belt car. The engine subframe had rusted to the point it was no longer sturdy. An inspector caught it and suggested I replace it (which I did), but I didn't fail the inspection that day.
    Last edited by FastWoman; 01-26-2014 at 08:10 AM.
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  26. #26
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-29874
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Greenwich NY.
    Age
    55
    Posts
    65

    Default

    Here in NY. We have to fail for structural rust IE: Frames, subframes, crossmembers etc. But floors, body mounts etc. No. essentially your seat could be falling through the floor, as long as you have a seat belt holding you to it, I can't fail it! lol. In NH. ANY rust hole any where is automatic failure.. Go figure. Get a good look at the structural stuff!

  27. #27
    It's awesome bartsscooterservice's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-28929
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Gendt, The Netherlands
    Age
    33
    Posts
    857

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FastWoman View Post
    Olzed, I'm not saying there isn't a hazard from a rusty body. Your story about the Mini is sobering, to say the least! But here in the US, rust isn't generally an issue of concern to inspectors, even though it perhaps SHOULD be.

    Annual inspections are required in most US states, with a list of items that must be certified good. However, in reality these items are just glossed over. Here in Virginia, we pay $16 each year for an inspection, and there are quite a number of points on the inspection list. See here:

    Virginia State Police - Safety Division

    There are no subsidies, so the business doing the inspection must make a profit off of the $16. That means the inspections are cursory at best. Sometimes the car will go on the lift (if it's an older one), and usually it won't. And even when it goes on the lift, the structural integrity of the body is not an inspection issue. The only rust related inspection issue I see is holes in the floor pan that might let exhaust gasses enter the cabin.

    On that point, I had a friend in Texas who had a very old rust-belt car (from Massachusetts). If you were to lift the passenger side floor mat, you could see the ground whizzing by through a hole about the size of a cup saucer. If so inclined, you could put your leg through it and stand on the ground. Even THAT was not an inspection issue! The car passed inspection every year, with an almost obligatory headlight adjustment ($7) and an occasional wiper blade replacement.

    I once had a structural issue in a rust-belt car. The engine subframe had rusted to the point it was no longer sturdy. An inspector caught it and suggested I replace it (which I did), but I didn't fail the inspection that day.
    I can imagine for 16 dollars, they don't spend much time..

    But it's one of those things that make the USA great I think. Here in Socialist Europe everthing is to over-regulated

    It doesn't get subsidised here either. But garages who do not follow the law ( there are un announced inspections on a regular basis ) , get warned first, second time they loose their rights to do those checks. Price is not fixed here, but average is around 50 euro. Garages like Kwikfit and other " low cost garages " draw people in by advertising something as low as 9 euro for a check..
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

    Jay Leno : You know one week after the Americans have walked on the moon, the Japanese introduced this sports car, and…if you’re a car guy pretty equal. I mean walking on the moon was pretty good, but how many times you’d gonna walk on the moon? But here was an affordable sports car that had real performance and looked like it cost a lot more than it did.

  28. #28
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-19635
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Posts
    2,787

    Default

    Bart, it's interesting that here in Virginia I have the option of self-certifying my own antique vehicle safe. I think the rationale is that modern mechanics don't know antique vehicles the way their owners and restorers do. My inspection standards are much higher than the state's anyway.

    However, I don't take this option. Every year I go to the inspection station, and the kid who KNOWS my vehicles are in top shape always practically waves me through. He'll sometimes put my car up on the lift, so I take the opportunity to walk around the underside and do my own quick inspection.

    The reason I pay my $16 is that I have had my vehicle certified "safe" to state standards by a professional safety inspector. Then if I get into an accident, and someone decides to sue me, I can show I've taken reasonable steps to maintain my vehicle in safe operating condition. In our litigious society, I think that's $16 well spent!
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  29. #29
    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7115
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Posts
    1,221

    Default

    Idea for the surface rust on the car. On old style rifles their is something called browning it is an old method of protecting metal by chemical starting rust then hardening it. Since their very little paint left on the roof you will need to do something to keep it from rusting out. The method is not are and you can get the chemical at a good gun shop (not a sporting good store) it literaly is a whipe on whipe off treatment then a coating you dry on and wash off to stop the reaction. Once done use some oil to protect the finish and treat scratches with the second chemical.

    I was looking at a Mack truck from the 50's with original paint and was thinking of hot-roding it and doing the same method. But I did not pick the truck up since I need to finish the Z first. It would have been cool it was missing the motor and I was thinking of picking up a 7L inline 6 with 750hp from Mack to put in it.

  30. #30
    Registered User olzed's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-20649
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Auckland. New Zealand.
    Age
    76
    Posts
    1,069

    Default

    QUOTE=FastWoman;448952]Olzed, I'm not saying there isn't a hazard from a rusty body. Your story about the Mini is sobering, to say the least! But here in the US, rust isn't generally an issue of concern to inspectors, even though it perhaps SHOULD be.[/QUOTE]

    Yes Sarah, it sobered me up very quickly.lol
    Our vehicles require a six monthly check, costing around $43NZD-$35USD.
    On top of that is our annual licencing fee of around $280NZD
    The Warrant Of Fitness inspections are very strict, especially since the introduction of Monocoque construction techniques.
    I remember as a young guy i had a 1934 Ford V8 Coupe which had 'some' rust issues, but it was passed as safe because those old cars had a chassis.
    (wish i still had it)

    Brian.

  31. #31
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-26512
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    1,420

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bartsscooterservice View Post
    It doesn't get subsidised here either. But garages who do not follow the law ( there are un announced inspections on a regular basis ) , get warned first, second time they loose their rights to do those checks. Price is not fixed here, but average is around 50 euro. Garages like Kwikfit and other " low cost garages " draw people in by advertising something as low as 9 euro for a check..
    I had my Zed in for its two yearly inspection last November and rhe garage called me at 09:15 that it was ready to pick up. Ten minutes later he called again, I had to wait two hours because he had a spot inspection and they wanted to check my car. It passed no problems. He charges €39 for an inspection.
    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  32. #32
    Registered User grannyknot's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-26437
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    698

    Default

    I guess we have it easy up here in Ontario, once you have your car, any car safety inspected, that's it, you never have to have it inspected again until it changes owners. Any car 1987 and older does not need an emissions test so you can modify to your hearts content.

    Ryan, here is a pic of my Z before, this is the passenger side foot well,
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCN0367.jpg 
Views:	37 
Size:	126.9 KB 
ID:	69456

    and after, it's all doable,
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCN0443.jpg 
Views:	39 
Size:	106.9 KB 
ID:	69457
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

  33. #33
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-23182
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mid-Atlantic
    Age
    49
    Posts
    148

    Default

    Grannyknot! Post a link to your floor replacement thread it was a good one.

    Here's similar work I performed on my rust bucket:
    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/o...tml#post447370

  34. #34
    Registered User grannyknot's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-26437
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    698

    Default

    Had to hunt a bit to find it, back on page 14, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/o...own-shell.html

    Quote Originally Posted by ksechler View Post
    Grannyknot! Post a link to your floor replacement thread it was a good one.

    Here's similar work I performed on my rust bucket:
    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/o...tml#post447370
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. I'm scared
    By BadDog in forum Help Me !!
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 06-08-2009, 08:22 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •