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Thread: Rear Disc Brake Conversion

  1. #1
    Registered User Tommo560's Avatar
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    Default Rear Disc Brake Conversion

    Hi Everyone,

    i am looking at doing the rear disc brake conversion for my 260z and i was wondering if anybody had done the conversion. if you have can you please help me with some info on how to do it, what i need to do the conversion, and where i can get parts at a reasonable price in oz. also i need discs that can fit in the stock 14" steel rims as i use them with my street tires.

    If you need some backround, the car is a road-going club racer (sprints, hillclimbs, and the sort) and i need the discs because the drums are dead and they keep overheating when i run at the track. the front brakes are the toyota 4x4 4 spots, and i would need something in the back that is not going to be way overkill, and the handbrake will still work on.

    If anyone have done this and can help me then that would be greately appreciated.

    Thankyou,

    Tom.
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    Default Rear Disc.

    Thommo,
    I finished the 280zx rear disc conversion a month or so ago, which is the easiest and cheapest as far as I know. I mainly did this one because I had to re-do the drums anyway and they cost about the same.
    You only need the following
    Caliper Brackets : Nissan Part # 44155-04S10 (1980 Nissan Maxima)
    Calipers : 9/81 - 4/84 280ZX or R30 Skyline.
    Rotors : 9/81 - 4/84 280ZX or R30 Skyline: DBA Part # DBA600

    Its all a bolt on really just taking all drum bits off including shields, but you do need to pull stub axle.

    Depending where you get the parts it can be a cheap swap. Also depends if you want more expensive rotors. Mine was around $400 i guess which is better than a whole new drum set up.
    There are other swaps or kits around but they are starting to get expensive or require some sort of mods via welding, drilling etc.
    The hard part to get may be the brackets which were available from Nissan not so long ago for $136 each. I got mine from US for $56 US each, but after shipping its not enough difference for the trouble really.
    The park brake bolts straight up but its not that flash so you may want a new one made, maybe one from a zx would be better but I havent got one of those to try.
    I've got pics if you want, but Warren (Woza01 I think)from WA Z cars gave me most of the inital info and seems a really good guy so you may want to try and chase him up.
    Anything else let me know via pm or email.

  3. #3
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    Thankyou,

    If its not to much trouble then some pictures would be a great help, also will these brakes fit into the stock steel rims?

    Thanks,

    Tom.

  4. #4
    Registered User mrdatto's Avatar
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    Default Rear disc.

    Should be fine, I've got 14's on the car while it sits in the garage and they go no problem. The discs are relatively small and so are the calipers, but better than the drums I think.

  5. #5
    Old Z Guy LanceM's Avatar
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    Check my gallery, I think the only pics there are of my rear conversion, I can take more if you want.
    Lance

    73 240Z, tripple webbers, 5 speed, 4 wheel disk, Einbach springs
    98 BMW 540i/6

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    Hi Mr Datto,
    I have been considering this conversion myself. So the Maxima brake upgrade is the same as the 280zx? I was thinking of buying the brackets off ebay but your saying Nissan Australia can get them for just about the same price?

    So which stub axle do I need to pull? How do I pull it? I've recently replaced my struts on my Z and had the rear drums pretty much apart I could see a bolt on the back of the drums which looked like where the stub axle was. What stub axle do I need? I hear the 260z ones are stronger and a good upgrade.

    How do you find the rear calipers? Personally I hate drums too hard to adjust all the time and I think they are still not right.

  7. #7
    Registered User Tommo560's Avatar
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    Thanks for the photos lance, and thanks mrdatto for the info and part numbers.

    Gav, try this http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...97&postcount=3

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    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    You need to pull out both the stub axles. Check your repair guide for the procedure. The bolt flange is too big for the 4-bolt MAXIMA brake caliper bracket to fit over. There are some brackets that bolt on with 3 bolts without pulling the stub axles, and I think they are equivalents but maybe not as strong as the 4-bolts.

    I saw a document somewhere showing the design of the bracket so you could make your own.

    While the stub axles are out, why not replace the bearings?

  9. #9
    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    You should ALWAYS replace the rear bearings anytime the stub axles are removed. They are not designed to be pressed in and out more than once.
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

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    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Here's a pic of the Maxima bracket. You can see why the stub axles need to comw out.
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    You can get the bracket from pick-a-part..... I did the rear disc conversion; got all my parts from pick-a-part out if a skyline station wagon (R30 I think).... it was a straight bolt on and only required minimal fabrication to the bracket - had to increase the diameter of the hole to fit the z..... the whole setup cost me $100!!!! That included calipers, discs, brackets, and brakes..... I've got the h/brake connected and it works well.... had to extend the cable slighlty due to it rubbing on the drive shafts.


    Marc.

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    Old Z Guy LanceM's Avatar
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    I used the maxima brakets on my conversion but I didn't want to pull the stubs, so I cut the brakets to make them 3 hole so that they would just slide on. Worked well and 3 bolts are plenty for the application as is seen with the aftermarket conversions.
    Lance

    73 240Z, tripple webbers, 5 speed, 4 wheel disk, Einbach springs
    98 BMW 540i/6

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    Quote Originally Posted by LanceM
    I used the maxima brakets on my conversion but I didn't want to pull the stubs, so I cut the brakets to make them 3 hole so that they would just slide on. Worked well and 3 bolts are plenty for the application as is seen with the aftermarket conversions.
    That is a very good tip. Wish I knew that when I originally installed my old Z-Quip early ZX setup. Totally unnecessary to have 4 bolts mounting it, and it requires you to pull the stub axles to bolt it up. It is easy to cut part of the bracket off and use the other 3 bolts and then the stubs can stay.

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    Default R31 Rear Brakes

    I have just replaced my rear brakes with Z32 Calipers,Rotors and manual hand brake . Next week will be replacing fronts (Commodore VT for those in Australia) with Z32.
    Front and rear current Brakes are for sale if any one is interested.

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    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Could you post a pic or a drawing of how you cut the bracket?
    thx

  16. #16
    Registered User Tommo560's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ERMINIO
    I have just replaced my rear brakes with Z32
    Front and rear current Brakes are for sale if any one is interested.
    What rear brakes are they? if they are the 280zx conversion then i might be interested in them, if you can pm me with details of what they are, what condition they're in and what price you want for them, that would be great.

    My_Mad_z: i'm in perth and i havnt heard of pick-a-part, but what sort of place is it so that i cant see if i can find some parts for such a rediculously low price. one question though, what sort of condition where they in? i want something in reasonably good nick so i dont have to be replacing anything soon, and so that i know it will be able to handle some hard slogging at the track.

    Tom.

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    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    "Pick-A-Part" is the generic term tfor a junkyard or auto salvage yard that primarily has or allows the customers remove their own parts. You can pick off your own hood or doors, or whatever. If you want the brake rotor, you need to remove the wheel, then the caliper & rotor. In that case, you might have to buy the entire brake caliper-rotor combination.

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    Default R31 Brakes

    Tom
    The Mod is well known to 240Z owners.
    The rear brakes are off a Nissan Pintara,Unfortunately I do not have Photo.
    They have done only about 3000Km. I had them fully serviced and new rotors at that time.They are still in very good condition.
    The modification is very simple just bolt on .There many articles on web, just type in R31 Brakes. The combination of R31 Rear and Commodore fronts are very good. If you go to my gallery you will see the condition of my work.
    I have left the calipers some 100 Kms from here where I was fitting CVs as some one up there was interested in them.
    Frank

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    Pick-a-part is a wrecking yard that we have in melbourne; you take your tools and remove the items yourself.... I guess that's why it's so cheap! I checked to see that the calipers were in working order before I removed them and they were fine.

    The good thing about pick-a-part is that prices are standardised across all manufacturers! They charged me $25 per disc and $25 per caliper.... I fitted them and they are in excellent working ordern didn't have to recondition the calipers.

    You can also cut the skyline caliper mounts to avoid removing the stub axles, I had my stub axles out to replace the bearings so I chose to leave the mounts in-tact.

    I've also done a brake upgrade on the front, used toyota 4 spot calipers and peugot vented/slotted discs.... only problem is that it wont allow the standard 14" wheels to fit. That upgrade cost me approximately $400; bought brand new discs from dba and bought the calipers 2nd hand and reconditioned them.

    Good luck.

    Marc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TomoHawk
    Could you post a pic or a drawing of how you cut the bracket?
    thx
    Just do your best impression of this: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/ca...&products_id=8

  21. #21
    Registered User Tommo560's Avatar
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    OK

    Obviously this brake upgrade was not high priority but I have finally fitted the brake kit ERMINIO had for sale 2 pot Commodore/Falcon front and R31 rear in place of Toyota Hi Ace 4 pot front and stock rear drums.

    The rear was a straight bolt up, pulled both axles and replaced the bearings because one was a bit noisy anyway, had to overhaul the callipers to get the hand brake operational, that's now set to go just need to connect the cables.

    The front was a bit challenging, it looked like I needed to build up the bottom of the strut with weld then grind it back down and drill and tap new locating holes for the callipers. I wasn't comfortable with trying to build up cast steel using welding rod as I'm told it will weaken the cast steel and can lead to it shattering, as the car is used in competition the thought of a front stub axle letting go under hard braking from 180+ks wasn't appealing so I looked around and finally came up with a guy who was able to mill the mounting face to accommodate the larger callipers and provide 7mm spacers so that the callipers are centred on the rotors.

    Even though I've gone from 4 pots to 2 on the front I have more than doubled the pad swept area and suspect the piston area is also increased as I now have greater brake pedal travel so will upgrade the master cylinder from 7/8 to 15/16.

    Driving on the street all felt fine the first real test was a motorkhana and with limited grip on the skid pan the brakes felt significantly improved but the fronts had a tendency to lock up much earlier than previously.

    The big test came at a tuning day at the local Wanneroo race track, for those who don't know the track it's undulating about 2.2 ks long its main straight has a down hill run into a 90deg right hander so brakes get a hiding I did a warm up lap and six or so semi hard laps on street tyres and pads braking from about 170ks and although I could hear the pads complaining the braking is dramatically improved on what I previously had with race pads and I could still achieve lock up with hot brakes and virtually no extra pedal travel.

    I wonder if I'll see a difference in my times

    Here's a vid from a recent club track day.

    Tom

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Mm_Gy0PwzI

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    Registered User nahurry's Avatar
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    i recently completed a 4 wheel disk conversion on my 240z. this thing stops on a dime now! i have the toyota 4 pistons up front and the 280zx disks out back.

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    I took some photo's of the R31 Skyline/Pintara rear brake set up as I was pulling it from the car at 'Pick a Part'.
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    Well its been a couple hill climbs and a track day since the upgrade and the last time i was out i shattered my lap time by 3 seconds and i still only have street pads on the car!!

    the toyota 4 pistons were good but these commodore brakes are just FANTASTIC. anyone who is looking at upgrading the brakes for a performance/club/race application should give this upgrade a serious look. for the street on a mild/hot street car the toyota 4 piston brakes are still good but for stopping the car at high speeds like in a racing application you cant go past the commodore brakes. and they even fit in the stock rims!!

    sensational upgrade at a sensational price. ~$900 is the cheapest 3 seconds i've spent on the car to date.

    Tom.

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    Quote Originally Posted by toecutter View Post
    I took some photo's of the R31 Skyline/Pintara rear brake set up as I was pulling it from the car at 'Pick a Part'.
    I couldnt manage to pull out the axles, not that I tried very hard. I gave up after a while, it was a 38 degree summer day.
    Is there a special way to pull the pintara axles out? Or did u just use brute strength?
    Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T: 3 inch exhaust, cold air intake, 10 psi

    Datsun 240z '73: Project car. Waiting for respray

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    Axles were out on the car I found, the pic of the completed hub is from a car next the one I got the rear off. I noticed your in Melb. Go to the pick a part in Cambellfield next time. There were heaps of R31's there withaxles pulled out and brackets just lying around next to the cars. I counted about 7 cars.

    Good Luck

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    Quote Originally Posted by toecutter View Post
    Axles were out on the car I found, the pic of the completed hub is from a car next the one I got the rear off. I noticed your in Melb. Go to the pick a part in Cambellfield next time. There were heaps of R31's there withaxles pulled out and brackets just lying around next to the cars. I counted about 7 cars.

    Good Luck
    Thanks mate. Appreciate the help.

    I am also interested in putting vented rotors on my zed, does anyone know of a company that sells them? Most sell only solid rotors.

    Cheers Ben.
    Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T: 3 inch exhaust, cold air intake, 10 psi

    Datsun 240z '73: Project car. Waiting for respray

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    Default Vented Rotors

    Ben
    If you have not been advised as yet, you can purchase vented rotors from DBA AUSTRALIA. I think their website is www.dba.com.au.
    Frank
    (My pen name is ERMINIO To see my gallery)

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    ERMINIO are your z32 brakes a performance upgrade from the commodore setup you had? what rotors are you using with it, and what diameter are they? was it fairly easy/cheap?

    sorry if you've already answered this elsewhere -evan
    1976 260z 2 seater

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    The Z32 was an upgrade from the VTCommodore/Pintaraset up. I retained the Commodore Front rotors DBA blanks. The size difference is minimal.The hardest part was to make up an adaptor plate for the brakes to fit on. I did the measurements and had them CAD drawn and then cut from 10mm plate.The rears, unless you use the internal h/brake, required an additional H/ brake system. The rear has the Z32 brakes with aftermarket H/break and standard Z32 vented rotors and two brackets. All up much improved to the Commodore/Pintara setup.

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    Im still perplexed as to how you are able to fit Z32 rotors onto a zed that has the standard 4 stud pattern?
    Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T: 3 inch exhaust, cold air intake, 10 psi

    Datsun 240z '73: Project car. Waiting for respray

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    philo "Z" opher Zedrally's Avatar
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    I'm sure they have gone to 16-17" 5 stud wheels.
    Mike of the Mire

    73 240Z Rally
    77 260Z Touring

    Bogged but not beaten

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    I have 16" wheels. Retained the 4 stud pattern but the rotors I purchased BLANK and drilled the stud holes, same with the commodore rotor.

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    what sort of price did it end up costing you? do you have a rough estimate of the diametre of the two rotors used off the top of your head? y z32 not skyline? was it hard to cente the holes you drilled or you just double checked it alot?

    as sad as it is, at this stage i'm just after it really for the looks to fill some 17" rims, plus braking faster would b nice although i know i dont REALLY need it at this stage (although am planning to eventually purchase a halfcut and was thinking about using the brakes off it), so trying to weigh up the options, and am begining to think along the lines of doing things properally the first time more and more, although $100 for an r31 rear setup from a pick a part doesn't sound to bad!

    is it expensive/legal to go for a hydrolic handbrake at the same time? just for a bit of fun
    1976 260z 2 seater

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    Formerly Datto-Zed Murph's Avatar
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    Hydraulic handbrake is illegal unfortunately mate.
    RS30-000756

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    really? but i know someone with one on a street registered car and didn't strike me as the kind of guy to have illegal mods done, ohwell
    1976 260z 2 seater

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    I have done a couple of rear disc conversions using a custom bracket to mount R31 Skyline callipers to the hub flange.
    R31 disc rotors are also used.
    Can be done without pulling the stub axle (but after this many years, the bearings could probably do with replacing).
    The beauty of the R31 callipers is that they the simplest handbrake mechanism that I have ever seen (some calliper/handbrake setups are quite horrendous).
    I have several pics. if anyone is interested.
    Further, the inspection at Adelaides' Regency Park Depot, went without a hitch so I guess they were so factory looking that it didn't matter.

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    Default bracket

    Welcome to the club Nissanman,

    I'd love to see the brackets you use, I've got all the parts for this r31conversion a local engineer makes a 4 bolt bracket but it starts out as 20mm plate steel, I'm worried about unsprung weight.

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    Default r31 rear discs

    I'd also be interested in the bracket. Weighing up the cost difference between machining new brackets or just ordering the US maxima brackets...

    Luke
    75 260Z Coupe
    94 CBR600 *RIP*

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    Registered User Nissanman's Avatar
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    I have had no joy uploading any pics. so I'll have to post them on the web.

    See: -

    http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=4291183313

    If you need any more info. just email or PM.
    Last edited by Nissanman; 02-24-2007 at 07:58 PM.

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    Default Cheers Nissanman

    Thanks!!
    75 260Z Coupe
    94 CBR600 *RIP*

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    Apparently, editting a post does not generate an email

  43. #43
    Registered User zedevan's Avatar
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    Jul 2004
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    You can get the bracket from pick-a-part..... I did the rear disc conversion; got all my parts from pick-a-part out if a skyline station wagon (R30 I think).... it was a straight bolt on and only required minimal fabrication to the bracket - had to increase the diameter of the hole to fit the z..... the whole setup cost me $100!!!! That included calipers, discs, brackets, and brakes..... I've got the h/brake connected and it works well.... had to extend the cable slighlty due to it rubbing on the drive shafts.


    Marc.
    Nissanman i'm just wondering how you made up the bracket, or if you just modified the exisiting one? r r31 brakes slightly better than r30 or are they the same? sorry, i've never had either of them infront of me, and i dont want to have the discs off my car and find i'm missing something or dont know how to do it! lol
    1976 260z 2 seater

  44. #44
    Registered User Nissanman's Avatar
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    Feb 2007
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    Adelaide, South Australia
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    The brackets were made up in my head at first then 6mm masonite, finally from 6mm plate.
    That plate thickness positioned the calliper dead centre over the rotor.
    R30 rear callipers are galaxies apart from the R31
    The chief difference, and the best feature, is the R31 handbrake mechanism.
    It is just soooo simple and compact compared to anything but the shoe type mechanism you get on the Bluebird (or Commodore).
    The R31 rotor just slips on the rear hub where the drum used to be, same centre hole diam. of 68mm, and you mount the wheel up as normal.
    R31 setup as below: -
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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