Rebello = West Coast, Who = East Coast?

[red_dog007]

Well, I have decided to stroke my L24. I just got off the phone with Rebello and quoted me $4,500 which I am willing to pay. Bumps power out to 220hp which is really all the power that I was looking forward too. It is pricey, for only 220hp, but that is what all I am wanting to do.


Though, is there anyone on the East Coast for Datsun that is like Rebello? I really don't want to have to send my engine all the way over to California, and then have it shipped back. I will do it, but it would be much more convenient if I could just drive it somewhere here in the East Coast.
I have called around to a few places, but I can't seem to get a hold of anyone, or find what I am looking for.


Kudos to Rebello for them. Actually picking up the phone, and not taking me to a directory. Took me a fellow mechanic and not some secretary either!!!

[jmark]

Sunbelt

[datsunrides]

If you do go Rebello, I can vouch for their quality/integrity. Dave is a straight up guy and will work with you to get you what you want and not "oversell" on stuff you may not need for the given application. Plus you can talk to him (when he's not at the races) I'm sure there are some great builders on the east coast just as good.

[bigoak]

Whitehead in Toronto...

[RIP260Z]

red-dog,
Speak to Dave Rebello about shipping your engine if you want to use his services. I shipped my cylinder head/crank and other parts to him using his contacts, and he sent my engine back. Very good price....oh and I am in England....I can't remember the cost of the engine shipping, but the cylinder head and crank cost about $60 to ship via air.

Ian

[rdefabri]

Rebello is well regarded, as is Sunbelt - they are in the Atlanta area.

[Diseazd]

Red dog What else is Rebello doing besides stroking the 2400 to get it to 220 H.P.? How about the head......what mods are they proposing (cam etc.). Guy

[xray]

Guy,

When I spoke with him he was vague about what he did. It's understandable since most of his work is proprietary and and his speedcraft and dependability are what make him an excellent choice for racing engines.

Basically, the 2.4 block is bored and stroked to about 2.8 using a 280Z crank and internals. Camshaft and headwork are TBD based on client discussions.

Here's an interesting thread with a link to a dyno for his 2.4 modded engine. Powercurve is quite peaky with 200HP+ available after 5000 rpm and peak torque in the same range. Good for racing, but may not meet expectations on the street.

http://classiczcars.com/forums/showt...hlight=rebello

Good luck,
Steve

[rdefabri]

I've heard Sunbelt can get close to 200HP at the crank with stock bore/stroke...

[gnosez]

I'm confused as to why you would bore and stroke a 2.4L engine when you could do the same with an L28 and get a 3.0L motor giving you another 50+ HP for the same money.

I have had Dave build me a 3.0L and 3.2L version of the L28. Both are NA (2-inch SUs on the 3.0 and triple Mukunis on the 3.2L). The 3.2L NA does 314hp@crank on 91 octane.

I'd have him build me another motor if I had the money.....

[Oiluj]

The only real reason to have him do a 2.4 is to keep the matching #'s. That's what I'm doing. I'm ging with a stroke and mild cam with minimal head work on an E88.

Should be around 200 HP.

[dga]

Call Greg Whitehead in Toronto. They do great work and have been Datsun performance and racing experts for 20+ years. He has a first class team of professional and honest mechanics.

www.whiteheadperformance.com

[Diseazd]

Steve The reason I was asking is because I too am building an L24 and an L28. The L 24 will be bored 40 over with a E31 head. Isky is carving me a stage II cam. We are not shaving any thing off of the head but are putting stainless steel swirl valves and stock valve springs. We're doing this to keep numbers matching. We're also building an extensively modified F54 with the shaved(.080) P79 head. Everyone needs 2 engines for the same car! Question.....What do you think the 24 will be putting out at the crank? Also.....the L28 will be putting out over 200 H.P. so I bought a 240mm flywheel. Will the new clutch require different fork and TO bearing to work with the flywheel?

[xray]

Steve The reason I was asking is because I too am building an L24 and an L28. The L 24 will be bored 40 over with a E31 head. Isky is carving me a stage II cam. We are not shaving any thing off of the head but are putting stainless steel swirl valves and stock valve springs. We're doing this to keep numbers matching. We're also building an extensively modified F54 with the shaved(.080) P79 head. Everyone needs 2 engines for the same car! Question.....What do you think the 24 will be putting out at the crank? Also.....the L28 will be putting out over 200 H.P. so I bought a 240mm flywheel. Will the new clutch require different fork and TO bearing to work with the flywheel?

Pretty interesting, as I'm doing the same thing...I'm running my L28/P79 with cam now, GTech Pro estimates 168 RWHP. From what I've gathered from the ZDoc in Roanoke and on HybridZ, the P79 mods to increase CR will help it get to around 225ish HP, depending on headwork and cam profile. I have the 225 flywheel (10-lb version) and from what I understand using the 240mm flywheel is only necessary for big HP forced induction. For clutch components, you need to stay with 280Z TO bearing and collar, as aftermarket clutches are designed around that collar profile. I bought a Centerforce II clutch and all components from MSA, and they were very much aware of what was compatible, so I'd suggest talking to them as well.

I wouldn't be too enthusiastic about the stock L24 with just a mild overbore and cam (not knowing the specific specs)...I guesstimate it'll be in the 140-150 RWHP range, based on my friend who races a stock L24 with triples and cam getting 165 RWHP, but I'd love to see a dyno sheet!

I'd like to do the P79 mods as well, then rebuild the matching numbers L24 with headwork by Sunbelt. But, between the M roady and the current state of my Z, I'm having enough fun. Please post up some dyno sheets when the L28 is finished!

[Diseazd]

Steve,

Doc is the one building my P79 head and also my E31. He's a trip......I don't know if you've met him, but if you haven't, it worth a trip! I'll go with you if you come through Richmond. He said I should use the 240mm clutch with the 28. I'm hooking it up to the 240Z 4 speed (is it OK to use that fork and TO with the 240mm clutch?) Just having a ball building all these combos and will let you know what the dynos and times are like after the mods. John Morton did pretty good with the 2400 didn't he? Guy

[DoubleXL240Z]

'Dog,
Try Jeff Winter at Rall/Sport in Col. He has been building Datsuns since the late 60s. His tubbed Z finished in the top ten at the runoffs this year in GT3!! He is very knowledgible an d very easy to talk to. Google his name and Datsun and you will be reading for a while.
His shop number is: 303.427.0510 No sales no BS!!
The other one to try is LNA enterprises in NC. This is the guy that builds and preps Greg Iras and guy Marvin Zs that are some of the fastest in the S.E. as well as at the runoffs. He is another straight shooter with more than enough smarts to make yours work at a very reasonable price. Again no fancy dog and pony shows here. Google LNA for his number!!

[jmark]

LNA's Sam Neave website

http://home.earthlink.net/~samneavelna/

[rxsleeper]

Sunbelt

+1

YMMV

[jackboxxx]

The only real reason to have him do a 2.4 is to keep the matching #'s. That's what I'm doing. I'm ging with a stroke and mild cam with minimal head work on an E88.

Should be around 200 HP.

you could just aquire a 2.8 block/head and have him build that. and put your orginal motor in storage until you decide you want to go back to stock...
thats what I did. though I cant imagine going back to stock after driving
my Rebello for the last 3 years lol...nope it aint gonna happen

oh..If anyone knows Ray w/ the red 240 from redondo beach/groupZ tell him
I got his car up and running! (i lost his number)

Lance

[rdefabri]

Julio,

Did you ever follow through on plans to have Rebello do your work?

I am back around on this kick - I too want to keep my engine numbers matching, and I am pretty certain I need some engine work. There is some oil leaking around the head and my performance is brisk, but not great.

I don't have the time, money or wherewithal to pull my engine, but I could remove my head and send out for work. That's largely driving this, and a $1,500 for head work by someone reputable is better value to me than taking it to a local, non-Z specific shop.

I was keenly interested in the Classic Motorsports article that showed a Balanced/Sunbelt engine putting close to 200 crank HP with stock bore/stroke. Now, if I don't do (or need) any bottom end work, I have to believe that sending the head to someone like Rebello or Sunbelt is going to yield something.

FWIW, I have an E88, allegedly with an aftermarket cam (Crower). Grind unknown, but the car doesn't sound any different at idle than I'd suspect, so it must be mild at best.

[Oiluj]

My engine is still at Rebello. I told Dave there was no "rush" since my chassis is still at the body shop and it will probably be 8 weeks before I'm ready to install the engine.

Dave told me that with the stroke job, mild cam, modified E88 & up-sized carb needles I can expect 200+ hp at the output shaft.

My main reason for doing this is for the increased torque that comes with the bigger bore as I'll be installing A/C. I got a higher capacity aluminum radiator to help keep the beast cool. I'll report when I get the engine back and installed in the car.

You should call Dave to discuss what he can do with your E88 and what kind of improvement you can expect. My previous personal experience was rebuilding/repairing a stock L24's, so I'm really looking forward to seeing how much of an improvement my Rebello powerplant provides.

[rdefabri]

Julio,

Excellent! I think the engine should be awesome.

I am always debating what to do. Since the head is where you'll primarily derive the power, I am thinking out loud what could be done leaving the bottom end, but adding a nice modded head. As I referred to the Classic Motorsport article, they have stock stroke/bore, so it can be done. It didn't detail how they increased compression, whether it was domed pistons or modification to the combustion chamber/shaving.

I want to keep numbers matching. I don't want to pull the engine. I can pull the head and send out, so I am curious what that could possibly yield. Since I already have a 5-spd and a better final drive, this could be a nice ride.

Not expecting to blow off Vettes, or WRXs, but something that was peppier and ran nice. I'd even consider ditching the E88 since that has no serial numbers. I once posed the question whether it was worthwhile putting in a L26 crank / rods and farming out the head work and no one went for it. But if you do the budget, it seems to be worth it to me - the L26 crank/rods should be good for an additional 10 hp, and the head a few more...much cheaper than pulling the engine, shipping, getting it back, and re-installing...

Rich

[Oiluj]

Rich,

You might want to search some of the threads here, or perhaps one of the pundits on the board can comment better than I can.

I've heard that the earlier E31 head yields better performance than the E88 head. As I understand it, the E31 heads are becoming pretty rare. Of course, Rebello can modify your current head to improve performance somewhat.

[rdefabri]

Yep, that might be the way I go...it's easier for me and gets me something...we'll see