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Thread: My 260Z build (Brake upgrades and Mods)

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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Default My 260Z build (Brake upgrades and Mods)

    As you probably read on my exhaust thread, I'm going bullistic on this rebuild. The 260Z is a 2/74' or Early 260Z. I plan on doing a thread for each of the highly involved mods, upgrades, improvements or projects inside the build.

    So this one is on my brake upgrades. I always hate looking deep inside 20 threads with 20 plus pages to find info on a particular upgrade that I'm interested in. So this one will have nothing but my brake upgrades, parts, prices, pictures and info. So here we go.....

    On the FRONT Brakes. I chose to go with the 1985 Toyota 4X4 Non-Vented rotor, 4 Piston Calipers, The part number on the calipers is S12-8. They are a direct bolt on using the stock S30 Front rotors. They will require you to bend the hard line from your stock caliper, after you instal it onto the new caliper, to align it with the stock brake line flange. As the 2 calipers have different brake line hole arrangements.

    These are the brake calipers I ended up using... $75 each at Schucks auto parts. They were pre-loaded with bendix? brake pads.


    This is a stock replacement rotor for the 260Z, mounted on the cleaned and POR15'd (rust encapsilator) with new wheel bearings, races and hi-temp rotor bearing grease. The rotor was painted with Hot-Rod Red Caliper paint w/ ceramic in the mix ($7 per can). The rotors were about $25 each at Schucks Auto parts.


    And on the strut assembly...... with the hard-line bent to the hose bracket.


    The Rear drums were eliminated for the 79' to 81' 280ZX Rear disc brake conversion. I bought the adaptor brackets from Joe D on HybridZ.org
    for about $120 I think. The calipers were a used set taken from the local pull a part off a 79' 280ZX. They were $6.50 each and the red paint was $7 for the can of caliper paint. (I media blasted with Aluminum Oxide)
    The bracket......


    The caliper...... 2nd picture shows how I moved the upper brake line and uses a top mount brake bracket on the upper and lower lines to relocate the angle in prep for the new Stainless Steel brake lines from MSA. Now the upper line and bracket is out of the line of fire of the caliper bracket when the strut compresses. The old brake line will be replaced with the SS brake line soon.


    Continued below............
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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Continued from above...

    I took the original E-brake bracket off the strut assembly, cut off the ZX ebrake bracket (not fun) and welded the S30 bracket onto the ZX caliper bracket at an angle that would allow for easy cable instal and no harsh angles as to bind the cable. I also crossed the Ebrake cable over itself above the diff. (Left ebrake to the right side and vice versa) to take up the slack of moving the cable forward.



    The rotors will be on after the 9th of Nov. (damn shipping) and the SS brake lines will be in by thursday (damn fed-ex) The brake shoes in the rear are $12 from Schucks

    The Master Cylinder is an 80' 280ZX 15/16" MC fitted to my 260Z Vacuum Booster. New gaskets and glue on the firewall as well. The nuts were swapped for Stainless Steel nuts and lock-washers. The brake lines that go to the MC were merely cleaned and bent a little to allow for the front and rear swap of the ZX MC (Rear brakes in the front chamber and front brakes in the rear chamber) from the 260Z's opposite set-up. Everything else was left alone for now. I've read everywhere about using a BIAS adjuster and NOT using one. I'll decide on it later.

    You'll also notice (to the trained eye) that I'm using the 260Z resevoirs. Reason for this is 1) they fit great 2) the MC was only $37 without the resevoirs and $132 With ZX resevoirs and wired caps. Easy choice.


    I cannot tell you the pros or cons as of yet but will report back when the car is on the road in the spring. I promise.

    Hope this helps clarify a few things and answer more questions than it generates.
    Dave
    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 11-03-2009 at 11:22 PM.
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    You are probably going to want the MC from a 1979 280zx. You'll need the extra capacity.

    Also, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread...104735&page=17 (you posted there as well) is a great thread regarding brake upgrades.
    -Bo

    1972 240z - Not original and still not done.
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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm View Post
    You are probably going to want the MC from a 1979 280zx. You'll need the extra capacity.

    Also, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread...104735&page=17 (you posted there as well) is a great thread regarding brake upgrades.
    The 79' and 80' 15/16" MC 's are identical. same exact MC. I checked with 5 different auto parts stores, online and at HybridZ. But thanks. If you read the post again, you'll see that the resevoirs are from a 260Z but the MC is a ZX 15/16" MC. Saved over $100 by NOT ordering it with the 280ZX resevoirs and wired lids.

    Dave
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zs-ondabrain View Post
    The 79' and 80' 15/16" MC 's are identical. same exact MC. I checked with 5 different auto parts stores, online and at HybridZ. But thanks. If you read the post again, you'll see that the resevoirs are from a 260Z but the MC is a ZX 15/16" MC. Saved over $100 by NOT ordering it with the 280ZX resevoirs and wired lids.
    I tried to sell my factory master and nobody bought it. It's been sitting for long enough that it probably isn't any good anymore, but you're welcome to it if you want it Dave. I did snip the wires to the lids, but it's otherwise OK. I'll have to dig it out of a box in the shop if you are interested.
    Jon

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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmortensen View Post
    I tried to sell my factory master and nobody bought it. It's been sitting for long enough that it probably isn't any good anymore, but you're welcome to it if you want it Dave. I did snip the wires to the lids, but it's otherwise OK. I'll have to dig it out of a box in the shop if you are interested.
    Already got the brand New one in the 260Z. Fully polished, shiny and installed. But thanks.

    And on a more personal note.... Is the wrie-up up to par? Does it meet the general JM standards?

    Dave
    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 11-04-2009 at 12:18 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zs-ondabrain View Post
    The 79' and 80' 15/16" MC 's are identical. same exact MC. I checked with 5 different auto parts stores, online and at HybridZ. But thanks. If you read the post again, you'll see that the resevoirs are from a 260Z but the MC is a ZX 15/16" MC. Saved over $100 by NOT ordering it with the 280ZX resevoirs and wired lids.

    Dave

    Yep, I misread your post. I ordered my 1979 280zx master cylinder from Rock Auto for around $130 if I remember correctly.

    It's good to know that the 1980 unit is the same as the 1979. I know that the later model years switched the mounting alignnment.
    -Bo

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    Default Great Job

    the paint on all those parts look great, I am in the process of doing the same thing; however I am just using black podwer coating for all the painted surfaces. I cannot wait to try them after I am done. I just finished the rebuild on the back brakes of my 260, but decided to keep the drums for now

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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VITAMIN Z View Post
    the paint on all those parts look great, I am in the process of doing the same thing; however I am just using black podwer coating for all the painted surfaces. I cannot wait to try them after I am done. I just finished the rebuild on the back brakes of my 260, but decided to keep the drums for now
    Hey, want some parts? they're free.... I sure as heck don't need 'em anymore.

    Seriously, anyone who wants my rear drum brake parts is welcome to them. Drums (with one or 2 small fins chipped or knocked off) but they still work fine. 2 brake cylinders, springs, cups, retainers, etc.

    The fronts were used for a core charge on the toyota brakes.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zs-ondabrain View Post
    Hey, want some parts? they're free.... I sure as heck don't need 'em anymore.

    Seriously, anyone who wants my rear drum brake parts is welcome to them. Drums (with one or 2 small fins chipped or knocked off) but they still work fine. 2 brake cylinders, springs, cups, retainers, etc.

    The fronts were used for a core charge on the toyota brakes.
    Wow, I had no idea you could use a different caliper as a core for the toy calipers

    Great writeup so far, I'm following this one as well
    -Andy
    1973 HLS30-166105
    RB20DET swap, HKS GT2530 turbo, HKS Actuator, Hallman MBC, ebay intake manifold, ebay dump pipe, straight pipe, 14 psi boost

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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    You can, if they don't look in the bag, that's in the box. hahaha. It also helps if you know the guys behind the counter (I'm a regular there, so it helps)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zs-ondabrain View Post
    You can, if they don't look in the bag, that's in the box. hahaha. It also helps if you know the guys behind the counter (I'm a regular there, so it helps)
    Nice, the guys I got my Optima from hooked me up too like that. We never did paperwork on it so we put it on the reject shelf... wouldn't hold a charge for some reason
    -Andy
    1973 HLS30-166105
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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    So I finally got my 79' 280ZX rear disk Brake Rotors from O'Rileys. Got them home and did the test fit before painting them with the Red Caliper Paint from Dupli-color.

    I also found out that when I welded the Ebrake brakets in the place that I did, They actually sit back far enough that I don't have to mess with or alter my Ebrake handle, brackets, pivots or rods. as a matter of fact, I think they will lock up withing 2 or 3 clicks of the handle. My 240Z never did that, no matter how much I adjusted them. I'm really liking these things and I haven't even driven the car yet.

    Also got the Stainless Steel Braided (Earls) Brake Lines from MSA and popped right in. BUT, they have a 17mm bolt that doesn't lock into the 19mm hole of the stock bracket. No big deal, just held it with a wrench and tightened them down. I also relocated the Hard-line bracket to the Frame, to completely avoid the Caliper bracket hitting it. 1st pic.

    Proportioning valve up front (on the firewall) is next.

    Dave
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    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 11-10-2009 at 10:12 PM.
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    Thanks for taking the time to post all of your great looking work for all to see. It's so much easier for all of us doing the same things on our cars to learn from good pics and posts like yours. This sight is an essential part of my restoration!

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    Hey Dave, Are you gonna change to an adjustable proportioning valve since you went to the ZX master cylinder? I read somewhere that that was necessary to keep the rear brakes from locking up before the fronts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LBO730 View Post
    Hey Dave, Are you gonna change to an adjustable proportioning valve since you went to the ZX master cylinder? I read somewhere that that was necessary to keep the rear brakes from locking up before the fronts.
    Yes. I'm going to block off the stock valve on the firewall, allowing the fronts to still go thru it and the new Proportioning valve will be mounted just above it, on the firewall.

    I may have to place it on top (in front) of the stock valve. To hopefully keep the stock lines as unbent as possible.

    Dave
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    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 11-11-2009 at 02:22 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by LBO730 View Post
    Hey Dave, Are you gonna change to an adjustable proportioning valve since you went to the ZX master cylinder? I read somewhere that that was necessary to keep the rear brakes from locking up before the fronts.
    The main issue here is usually getting enough braking to the rear brakes when using the Toyota front calipers. People using the same setup as Dave have found that a proportioning valve needs to be almost wide open to acheive this. Incidentally the 240 (not 260) also has a valve in the rear line which should be discarded.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nigel1943 View Post
    The main issue here is usually getting enough braking to the rear brakes when using the Toyota front calipers. People using the same setup as Dave have found that a proportioning valve needs to be almost wide open to acheive this. Incidentally the 240 (not 260) also has a valve in the rear line which should be discarded.
    Correction, 240zs up to 1972 have the valve in the rear. The 1973 has the valve on the firewall.
    -Bo

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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    SOOOO.... I finally got to the other side, basically a mirror image of the left side but here ya go..

    It was a little easier on the right side, as the left was all practice. So I copied every thing and it was a breeze.

    Now I gotta go get another GM mount cause I sold the other one to Nigel in the UK. Mount the R/T, mod the GM mount, raise and bolt in the diff and finsh the body work on the left side so I can spin the car around and start on the right side.

    Much to do.
    Dave
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    Dave,
    Does your car suffer nose bleeds being that high off the floor? Seriously though, I was toying with the same idea with some left over scrap wood I have laying around. Did you use the same wood beam shoring front and back, could you post a pic? It has got to make life working/moving around under there a whole lot easier.
    Jim
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    The front wheels are on dollies, with the dolly wheels locked. There's no way I would work under the car if the only thing holding it up was 4 wobbly legs.

    So front wheels on dollies and rear end up with a 4"x4" across the floors, held up with 2 jack stands. Definately made doing the doglegs and suspension much easier.

    Dave
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    Quote Originally Posted by suzook86 View Post
    Dave,
    Does your car suffer nose bleeds being that high off the floor? Seriously though, I was toying with the same idea with some left over scrap wood I have laying around. Did you use the same wood beam shoring front and back, could you post a pic? It has got to make life working/moving around under there a whole lot easier.
    Jim
    Sorry for the delayed answer Jim....

    I did the front with Jack-stands on the frame rails and the rear still had the old suspension and wheels on. There was no way I was gonna crawl under there with the whole car teetering on 4 stilts (jack stands) Then I put the front wheels on and put them onto small rollers becasue the rack and pinion was not done or installed and I had no way of keeping the wheels straight.

    So with the front done and on rollers, I tossed some sand under the small wheels of the rollrs to keep them from wondering around, then raised the back end and used the 4x4 and taller Jackstands to keep the rear suspended and make plenty of room to work under there. Made life much easier being able to sit cross-legged while scraping old undercoating off.

    One side at a time, that's all I need.
    Dave

    (*EDIT*) I just realized I already posted but rather than erase one, I'm just leaving this one here.)
    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 02-06-2010 at 11:29 PM.
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    youre doing a great job, im planning to restore my 260z brakes and i have a question
    what do i need for the toyota caliper swap, just the calipers and brake pads?
    can you post a picture of datsun vs toyota calipers, just to watch the difference

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    Kinda hard to see them amongst the crap on the floor, but you can see that they stock 260Z calipers are a Dual piston like the 240Z's and pale in comparison to the 4-piston Toyota calipers.

    in the second picture, you can kinda see the caliper under the control arm

    Hope that helps, I don't have a side-by-side as I shipped them off to the auto parts store for the Core charge. The only thing you need is the S12-8 calipers, your rotors and rebend your hardlines, as they are obviously in different locations on the calipers compared to the datsun calipers.

    Dave
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    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 02-09-2010 at 09:37 PM.
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  25. #25
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Body work is moving along, slowly BUT..... I finally got my FatMat in from eBay (Noise-Killers on ebay A++) and started right on it. And a big thinks to Logan1 for the visual inspiration to do the every friggin panel I can reach. The FatMat is a great deal at $130 for 100 sq.ft. which is EASILY enough to cover the everything that Needs to be covered, including the headlinerless roof, firewall, inner rear quarters, wheel wells, shock towers, spare well and everything in between.

    Here it is so far....




    hopefully more to come this week. Also, rear wheels are on and all 4 are on rollers, so I can totally spin the car around and keep the sun on the area that needs a little warmth (it was actually 55 degrees out today) not bad for mid Feb. here in the Great NW.

    Dave
    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 02-18-2010 at 11:31 PM.
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  26. #26
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    So I got a little more FatMat done today but nothing worth posting about.
    BUT after 3 months of waiting for my metal guy to get around to cutting and shaping my rear panel for an easy instal, he calls me monday and tells me he's getting to it. Tuesday he calls and says "It's cut and ready for you to pick it up" then he says" You'll have to do a little cutting and grinding and it'll be good to go"..............

    Solm bich gave me a square peice of 18 gauge sheet metal with a 90* bend at the top, THAT'S IT!! So pissed off and falling behind, I figured screw it and start woprking on it.

    So I made some relief cuts and had to cut the **** out of a huge peice of metal. I'll post more when it starts looking like a rear panel. Still gotta cut the holes for the rear lenses, license plate and thinking about doing a straight line of SuperBrite White LED's across the bottom half under the licence plate area (about 12" to 18" long) You'll see.

    Dave

    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 02-19-2010 at 11:52 PM.
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  27. #27
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Moving right along.... The wifes "To-Do" list killed a lot of productive hours but I got a few things done. As the pictures show, it all started with some card board and went from there. The license plate will be inward and the lights will barely be 1/4" out of the rear panel. Any opinions thus far???
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  28. #28
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    So I got one side done today, had to help the neighbor get his Subs working again (Crazy azz audio system w/ about 5000 watts) anyways, now I gotta figure out a gasket and mounting for the assemblies. Hell of a lot of filing and figuring for 4 small lenses.



    Dave
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  29. #29
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    did a little more yesterday and I'm heading back out to finish the license plate recess.

    Dave
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  30. #30
    Registered User MEZZZ's Avatar
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    Dave,
    looks great with the recess for the plate! Looked too plain before but the recess really turned out nice. I also like the Klearz lenses. I looked into some but read about some quality control issues. I ended up scoring a set of Euro amber lenses off of Ebay last month instead. Installed them over the weekend, more of a pain than I thought.
    Keep us posted
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  31. #31
    RLS30-013490 oldhemi's Avatar
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    So Dave, when you gonna offer the tail assembly with lights and license plate recess as a kit?
    Original owner of early '74 260Z that was rode hard and put away wet. Gonna try to revive it from a long sleep. I am old enough to know better - right, like that's ever gonna happen.
    Pictures of La cagada marrón

  32. #32
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MEZZZ View Post
    Dave,
    looks great with the recess for the plate! Looked too plain before but the recess really turned out nice. I also like the Klearz lenses. I looked into some but read about some quality control issues. I ended up scoring a set of Euro amber lenses off of Ebay last month instead. Installed them over the weekend, more of a pain than I thought.
    Keep us posted
    I felt the same after I saw it without the recess. I wanted to keep with a similar OEM look with the plate at a slight tilt and didn't stray from the stock lenses either. The Brake lights are actually the old turn signal lenses!! The old right side T/S is now the New left brake light (notice the lack of a reflector on either lens??

    And on the plus side, the recess will allow me to do internal row of LED's and the frosty white lens will sit up under that lip, above the license plate, out of side until I turn on the parking lights.

    I also plan on the KlearZ clear front markers with Yellow LED's like the rears.
    Still finaggling the front bumper ("To be or Not to be"? That IS the question.

    Quote Originally Posted by oldhemi View Post
    So Dave, when you gonna offer the tail assembly with lights and license plate recess as a kit?
    Not in This lifetime.
    1) The LED lens (96 Red LED's and 72 Yellow LED's, 36 resistors and 4 diodes) Took a while to make.
    2) The Rear Plate is 18 gauge mild steel and a bitch to work with when all you have is cutting wheels, a 4" grinder, an air saw and a dremel with quick release cutting wheels and a POS Flux-core welder.
    3) the rear of the Z's have a vertical droop and and inward slope. NOT an easy area to replicate under the currect tool conditions that I'm working with.

    I don't think I would do it for any less than $600 fully loaded cause this was a BIG pain in the butt. And I'm not even done with this one. I still gotta do the license plate light and the reverse light strip. AND figure out how to make all the lights servicable (removable and replacable) after it's all welded into place, glassed and painted.

    And I couldn't guarantee that each S30's rear section is the same, mm by mm (millimeter)

    But thanks for thinking its worthy of Reproduction
    And here's what I did today. You can see the holding brackets for the lenses, welded in nuts for the license plate bolts and welded nut brackets for the lens holding plates. Still much to do.

    Dave
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  33. #33
    Once you've been bitten.. fiveleaf's Avatar
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    Looks like the LEDs in Post 29 took awhile. Really unique -- most DIY taillights I've browsed through look... out of place.

    I was wondering: why you chose the solid caliper/rotor over the vented?
    "Braking through corners is an advanced racing technique".
    -- Dad, quoting Fred Puhn, advising me before I drove across Canada.

    "That's aftermarket", upon discovering the 10+yr old cracked, obviously homemade, plastic seal on the inside of the rear hatch.

  34. #34
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiveleaf View Post
    Looks like the LEDs in Post 29 took awhile. Really unique -- most DIY taillights I've browsed through look... out of place.

    I was wondering: why you chose the solid caliper/rotor over the vented?
    The LED's do take time. I have to make the plates, design and drill out the holes Just Right for an exact snug fit, sand down the face to remove the drill rash and glue on the Aluminum foil, cut the foil from each hole, load the LED's so the +/- poles are aligned for wiring correctly, bent cut and solder every LED, then wire them up for correct operation or design of that particular board. All this X 4, 2 turns and 2 stop/parking light.

    Cause I already had a brand new set of rotors for the 260Z and that made the non-vented rotor/caliper pair a pretty easy decision. go with what ya got. And the Vented rotor / caliper pair was more pricey. I'm on a budget and every dollar counts.

    Dave
    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 02-24-2010 at 12:29 PM.
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  35. #35
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    got a little more done today in between Arne's 3rd brake light and a few other jobs. The roof!!!, Spare well, inner dog legs up to the quarter windows and a few other spots.

    Kinda jumpin around so you'll see a few blank spots that'll be filled later, Not gonna do the quarter panels or rear tailgate panel till all the welding is done. Just seems easier that way.

    Dave
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  36. #36
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Wow, this is a very interesting build! Loving the progress
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  37. #37
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Finished up the License plate light today, as well as Arne's 3rd bake light, since I was working with LED's anyways.

    Ordered some LED's from www.superbrightleds.com that have 6 4 pin white LED's in a strip. Made a box out of 1/8" ABS plastic and 3/16" clear Plexiglass. Beveled the edges so the lens will sit flush in the cut out steel. Sealed it all off with thin adhesive foam and made it removable with 3 small screws. The last picture shows just how bright it really is, especially on the floor. (Lose your keys? let me back up for ya.) hehehe

    Now on to the reverse light, yah fun... I think I'll put it Under the license plate.
    Dave
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    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 02-26-2010 at 08:47 PM.
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  38. #38
    Registered User Bonzi Lon's Avatar
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    Will the reverse light be wired to a sounding device?

    Bonzi Lon
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  39. #39
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Nope. No back up beepers here..... But I was thinking that I could wire every LED light into a "Speratic Circuit" for car shows.... Just turn it on and let it flash every light, one at a time, in no particular order. It would look awesome at night. This will be one of the brightest, cleanly lit 260Z's on the planet.

    Between the custom License plate lights, reverse light strip, brake lights, turn signals, side markers, front markers, HID headlights and Cold Cathode Tube lighting on the inside, This should be able to be seen from space??? Maybe? Maybe even go with an underbody kit??? Nah, not this time.

    Dave
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  40. #40
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Spent a little time on the 260Z today. Finished up the Reverse light and cut the hole out under the plate recess. I bought 3) LB3 LED light bars that have 6 High Flux 60 Degree LEDs per bar for a total of 18 Super brite High Flux LED's (same LED's as the License plate light) Superbrightleds.com Desoldered all the LED's and resistors and put them all side by side on a peice of radio shack perf board (unprinted circuit board) Pic #2

    Made another ABS box with reflective aluminum foil inside and a 3/16" Plexiglass top that I shaved the side to fit the metal cut-out of the taillight plate. I also bought a 2' X 2' sheet of light defusor plastic for kitchen lights. Cut a peice to fit inside the box and glued it to the plexiglass and that to the box. Pic #1, 3, 4, 5, 6, and Picture 7 show how bright it is on the ceiling of the garage. Camera don't do it justice though, IT'S BRIGHT!!!

    I also had to figure out a way to mount the reverse light AFTER welding and paint. And do it without drilling holes in the outer plate for a flush look. So I cut 2 sheets of steel and bolted them to the inner rear plate, welded 2 nuts to the body, and bolted the plates to the body which allows me to turn the 2 inside screws to push the plates up against the reverse light box and make it flush against the outer body... Sounds confusing but it works like a charm and you'll never see the work it took to get it to work properly and correctly.
    Pic #8 and 9. You can't see the welded nuts under the plates.

    I also welded the rear plate on FINALLY!!! What a fracken pain in the butt. My Welder sucks donkey balls. But I got it on. Now there's a lot of grinding to do then a lot of filling and sanding. I'm bitching but at least things are getting done, even if it's slowly. Pic #10

    Dave
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  41. #41
    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    Not bringing it to Canby this year, are you?
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  42. #42
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    That WAS the plan but unless I win the Lotto this week, it ain't happening. Probably won't be on the road till June or July now. Likely later than that.

    I did however order the 3) sets of 5-1/4" Alpine SPS speakers and the 2 Alpine MRP amps (M500 mono amp and the F300 4-channel amp) so I can start making custom panels and pods including the custom door panels with pods.

    I'll email you in a bit.
    Dave
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  43. #43
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Did a little more today, wore out all my sanding disks (flap style) so I bought some heavy duty80 grit disks that actually screw on. They work awesome. Touched up a few more welds and did a little pounding here and there. When the sun comes out, I'll start throwing some filler on there and start getting the shape I want.

    And there's even a shot of Z_Tyler_Z working on his 76' and a shot of what all driveways should look like......
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  44. #44
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Did some more work while waiting on parts for a huge MSA order.
    here ya go, The 3rd picture is all the remaining "Interlock" wires torn out of the body harness.
    Dave
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  45. #45
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    And here's the remaining pictures, I'm done for a few days. I gotta get this big order done. The last picture is the "Before" shot for the next set of pictures I'll upload next week?? Maybe.

    Dave
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    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 03-11-2010 at 03:57 PM.
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  46. #46
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    This may be a stupid question, but if you fiberglass that in, how will you remove that rear panel to access the lights. Forgive me if you have covered this already (you probably have)
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  47. #47
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    The corner speaker pod is just that, a Pod. You'll notice the screw on top and there are 2 more on the inside, screwing the pod to the amp panel. You can see the 2 screw holes in the first picture, on the right side of the picture. There are gaps between the panels but that'll be filled when the vinyl or Charcoal Grey Tweed is laid on and glued down.

    They'll be placed into the car in this order.... Quarter panel pods, then Left and Right speaker pods screwed into the quarter panels, then the center panel will cover the screws holding the speaker pods in place. Each pod or panel will overlap the previous and make everything appear to be one peice and only a few screws will be seen.

    You might even notice the lower gap between the speaker pods and the floor, to allow the carpet to slide into place without modifying the carpet.

    The question though, is Do ya like it so far?
    Dave
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    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 03-13-2010 at 09:05 PM.
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  48. #48
    Registered User 70 Cam Guy's Avatar
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    I like the glass work, nicely molded into the original back panel. Clever use of the EVAP canister lump too for the amp. You'll have some people lining up for speaker panels and installs if you're not careful

    -Andy
    1973 HLS30-166105
    RB20DET swap, HKS GT2530 turbo, HKS Actuator, Hallman MBC, ebay intake manifold, ebay dump pipe, straight pipe, 14 psi boost

  49. #49
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Thanks, The nice thing is the LACK of the EVAP and I'll build an almost identical amp panel on the other side as well. Took a little off the rear cover panel to make room for the new speaker pod but it was actually a cheap replacement cover, so no big loss.

    I can't wait to see it all in the same material, loaded with amps and speakers and see it all with the carpet in place. It should be real nice and flowing. There'll be 2) 12" subs in the spare well, 2) amps in the quarters, 2 speakers in the rear pods, 2) speakers in custom door panels with custom pods and another set of pods in the front kick panels.

    Got a lot of work to do. Anyone know where a guy like me can get a $7000 loan to finish this?

    Dave
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  50. #50
    Once you've been bitten.. fiveleaf's Avatar
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    Two 12" in a z? You're crazy.
    How much improvement do you expect over 1) 12"?

    I'm also going to fibreglass a rear sub enclosure. Should be eaiser than the front kick pods. That resin is expensive. You might convince me to find a second 12" if you're not careful.
    Can I ask you to take the same detail with the front kicks? I'm about to get my first expierence with fibreglass this summer.

    PS, you know you could have just taken the heater core out and put your amps there... just make sure to have what the English would have called a "Driving Blanket", for those colder (all) nights.

    Really nice writeup, and I think the amps will juust barely hide from sight when the rear hatch closes. I remember dad cursing whoever stole the last set of kick pods from this car. Worthless to anyone else, but perfect for the z.


    Edit: I also didn't know the red 240 had tinted windows. Do they just look that way in the picture (Post No. 43)?
    Last edited by fiveleaf; 03-12-2010 at 05:17 AM.
    "Braking through corners is an advanced racing technique".
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    "That's aftermarket", upon discovering the 10+yr old cracked, obviously homemade, plastic seal on the inside of the rear hatch.

  51. #51
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    I actually expect Twice as much output from 2) 12" subs, as I would with only 1).
    I could use just one but the subs I'm getting require 0.65 cu.ft each and the wheel well with 1/4" sidewalls and 1" thick top and 1" divider with the subs .11 displacement comes to 1.3 divided by 2 = .65 each, perfect!!

    Resin is getting pricey. I paid $45 for a gallon of Polyester Resin from Schucks/O'Rielly.
    The front pods (kick panel) will be almost the same.

    1) I'll copy the original panel out of 1/8" MDF cause it's stronger then the stock fiberboard.
    2) Then I'll make a ring out of the 1/2" MDF (like the rear but round) with another 1/2" ring on top of that to allow the speaker to sit below the pod and be hidden by the 1/4" grill cloth covered panel. I'll do a full write up on it later.
    3) then use radio backstraps to hold the ring out from the panel and at the correct angle.
    4) I'll wrap the entire thing in Fleece and staple it to the back of the panel. The fleece is very stretchy and holds a lot of resin which makes for a thicker enclosure.
    5) Staple the fleece to the ring as well. Then resin the whole thing, using a roller rake to work the resin into everything.

    After it's hard, cut the hole out and trim the excess from the back. I use a grinder and a double filter resporator, grinding the rough spots down so it sits flush against the wall that it'll be mounted to, test fit then clean up the rest. Paint it, wrap it or what-ever.

    My Z's get parked in the garage and have full alarms. I don't care how good of a thief you are, you won't get my Z's....... And yes, my windows are tinted with 20% tint. If you look again at the picture, you can see thru the front window and almost thru the drivers side window. If the house behind the car was better lit, you'd see it in the picture.

    By the way, I'll be using the Pioneer TS-SW301 shallow mount subs.

    Dave
    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 03-12-2010 at 09:11 AM.
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  52. #52
    Registered User IBZINYA's Avatar
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    I dunno how fast I was going.... the speedo quit at 160.
    I knew it was out of oil.... it quit smoking

  53. #53
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    Nice work Dave. Your level of innovation is very inspiring. I was actually pondering what a nicely done custom semi-stealth fiberglass quarter rear speaker panel might look like and now I know. Let me know when you're ready to come down to Santa Cruz and start work on mine.
    =Enigma=
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  54. #54
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    No problem. Just cover fuel, supplies and a vacation home for me and the wife and we're there!!!

    Part of the fun of building things like this is showing it off and showing how others can do it easily and on a budget. Kinda like the hot-rod guys on SPIKE every Saturday and sunday. I"m actually watching "Trucks" on Spike right now, while I build Headlight and parking light harness's. Well, doing more listening than watching.

    Dave
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  55. #55
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    Wow, Looks like you get a lot accomplished when I'm not around to bug you lol. Looking forward to seeing all your new work.
    HLS30299157 1976 280Z

  56. #56
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Had to get the hell away from the Upgrade building today, everybody needs a day off, now and then. So I got some fresh air in the garage, kinda.....

    I don't think suckin in fiberglass fumes and dust qualifies as fresh air. But at least I got some work done. so much for taking a break....

    you'll notice the backstraps used to reinforce the panel. The original panels is flimsy as hell so I glassed the whole backside before I'll wrap it in fleece for resining the front side.
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  57. #57
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Sun came out today and I can only do so many upgrades before my hands give out and my eyes get blurry. The Reading glasses only help so much......

    So after reinforcing the back, I started stapling the fleece to the wooden frame. But I went a different route this time, SUPER GLUE!!!! It's awesome for tight corners and tucking where staples and clamps just won't work. Only takes 5 seconds to get the glue to hold the fleece down as it absorbs the oils from your fingers, that have worked it's way into the fleece while I'm pushing the fleece into the panel with super glue on it. And that holds the material in place while I lightly brush and roll the resin into place. Being carefull to not break the fleece loose from the panel while brushing.

    The end result is a decent panel with curves that I couldn't manage to get before, unless the panel was a staplable wood product.

    Dave
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  58. #58
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    was gonna work on it later today but apparently I didn't add enough hardener. it's still a little tacky, So back to the heatgun. if it's not totally cured, it'll gum up my sanding disc.
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  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zs-ondabrain View Post
    I've read everywhere about using a BIAS adjuster and NOT using one. I'll decide on it later.
    Hey Dave, did you ever get a chance to decide about the stock brake bias or install an adjustable one?

    I am prepping to install the same exact package front and back except with the Z race products brackets and 82-83 280zx calipers and rotors.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Headstrong280z; 06-02-2010 at 06:45 PM.

  60. #60
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Haven't had a chance to get to anything on the 260Z lately cause of 3 large orders from Motorsport, a New (to me) 72' 240Z and a bunch of other roadblocks.

    Sorry,
    Dave
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  61. #61
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    So lately, been doing a little work on the 260Z. Decided to do something DIFFERENT with the Fuel door. Always loved the round, flush doors on other cars. It'll have the magnetic "push to open/ push to close" pop-out catch. But when closing up the filler area, I had to make a drain with a tube if any water gets in as it won't spill out like the stock lid allows.

    I also had to modify and extend the spring loaded hinge, then reinforce the lid and hinge to minimize movement or missalignment when opening or closing.
    My damn camera broke yesterday so here is the minimal amout until I can take more pics.

    So when making the design or Mod, I, as you all know, LOVE Datsun. So I thought, a round lid should be familiar to all in "the Know" And what I'm thinking is paint it the same color as the car but have a Blue tinted Pearl for the middle and red tinted pearl for the outer circle halves. The do something similar for the lettering in the center section. So it'll be more of a Ghost design that you actually have to look to see it.
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  62. #62
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Oh ya, and all this while Trying to QUIT SMOKING!!! It's 9:30 and I've only had 5-1/2 cigarettes today. Might have one more before bed but gonna try and pass it up. We'll see. I've been meaning to quit for about 25 years now (started when I was 13, I'm 39 now) and figured it this way......... I love my wife, my hobbies and my kids, I wanna be around to finish the race. I ain't getting any younger and smoking ain't making me any healtheir.

    Wish me luck!! Hopefully being in the garage will keep me busy enough to get thru this. God forbid anyone piss me off this week.

    Dave
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  63. #63
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    Good luck man. I've quit twice. First time stuck for a couple years, it's probably been 5 since the last time I quit. Smoked between a pack and 2 packs a day for about 13 years altogether. Honestly I don't feel that much different at all, but not giving the state the sin tax money is a nice feeling. A-holes still get me when I buy a bottle of Tuaca though.

    Interesting fuel door. Looks nice so far.
    Jon

  64. #64
    Registered User Bonzi Lon's Avatar
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    The new mod looks like the 'Nissan' Logo. Ghost paint 'DATSUN' on it

    I quit smoking 12 years ago after 32 years. Woke up one morning and asked myself why I was smoking these things. Answer was, 'cause your an idiot, Lon'. 'Oh yeah, thats right'. ( Borrowed from the movie 'Heathers'.)
    Absolutly the BEST thing I have ever done. You can do it too.

    A year later totally gave up alcohol too. Getting a DUI in my own driveway made me give it up. The free margretias at Z-CON were too tempting so I had to leave. I just refuse to go down those 2 roads again.

    Bonzi Lon
    1973 HLS30-168500
    1968 SPL311-18100
    1969 HLS30-000110 SOLD Shipped to Dubai UAE
    CZCC#11300

    Ones and Zeros

    "We drive only blue cars." Dishwalla

  65. #65
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    so I did a little more work on it and YES Loni, It is a Datsun Logo design.
    Here's the progress so far. I painted it with black primer to check m lines and see how it looked so far.....

    OH BTW.... Seriously considering using a cable driven Linear Actuator to open and close the lid and I'll remove the spring. Doing this will also eliminate the "Steal my gas" worry that I had.
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    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 10-30-2010 at 09:04 PM.
    Rate my Z at Car Domain.com
    My 70' 240Z, Daily Driver

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  66. #66
    Registered User Oiluj's Avatar
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    Dave,

    That looks great! Very 1960's GT look.
    Julio
    1972 240Z (in-progress, 95% complete)
    CZC# 15388

  67. #67
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    I added another picture for ya Julio. I used MS Paint to do the Coloring and Datsun. Freehand sucks but you can see where I'm going with it.
    Rate my Z at Car Domain.com
    My 70' 240Z, Daily Driver

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  68. #68
    Registered User olzed's Avatar
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    Dave. Nice job. On the smoking thing. I started when I was 15. Hell, thats a long time ago. I'm now 66. Anyhow at the age of 51, I suffered a major artery blockage which resulted in a full blown' heart attack' or M.I.After 2 weeks in coronary care, I swore I would never smoke again to stuff up all the good work the doctors and nurses put in to me. And I havn't smoked since. Unfortuately the damage is done, as after prostate surgery 2 years ago I had cardiac arrest, resulting in being fitted with an implanted defibrilator. This thing has brought me back from death on two occasions since.
    The sooner you can quit the habit the better. You will feel better and have a few more dollars in your pocket. As an added bonus you will live to see grandchildren, or even Great grandchildren, of which I have three.
    Life is bloody good at the moment.
    Sorry to get away from the thread. Just thought I would wish you well with the smoking thing. They say there's nothing worse than a reformed smoker, and thats so true. I can smell cig. smoke half a mile away.

    Brian.

  69. #69
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    As I slow down to a dead stop (smoking that is) I've noticed my sense of smell and taste have already jumped 5 fold. with the exception of winter, I hope to start walking more, joging on occasion, taking the dogs out more often, etc, etc. You get the idea.

    It's like being a prisoner for years and I'm sitting here making Mental notes of all the things I wanna do once I'm free of this incarceration. Think of the money I'll save, the Parts I can buy, the........ ya, you get it.

    Thanks guys,
    Dave
    Rate my Z at Car Domain.com
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  70. #70
    Registered User IBZINYA's Avatar
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    Glad to see things are still progressing Dave!... Wish I could get up to see ya in the next couple of months.. we will see how busy things get this spring.
    I dunno how fast I was going.... the speedo quit at 160.
    I knew it was out of oil.... it quit smoking

  71. #71
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    2 words Kirk, "Bring tools"

    Glad to hear ya made it thru the Holiday Season. My door is Always open to you and your Family. Anytime you're in the area, stop on by.

    Things have obviously slowed down a bit. Too damn cold in the garage and this Christmas has swept all the enthusiasm out the door. Just gotta finish this MSA order and another customers Order and get back to work, no matter what.

    I need money for paint and time to finish all the other little sub-projects within the main project.

    DAve
    Rate my Z at Car Domain.com
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    Headlight Upgrade Harness info here at ClassicZCar Club
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  72. #72
    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    So i guess the only question i have is How well does it stop?

  73. #73
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Great question. But I gotta finish the car and get it on the road before I can tell you the answer. Been a cold winter and now money to work on the car. So nothing has been done since last November.

    But as soon as I get a chance, I'll finish up the body work so I can get it to paint and get to finishing this damn car.

    Dave
    Rate my Z at Car Domain.com
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    Headlight Upgrade Harness info here at ClassicZCar Club
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  74. #74
    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    If anyone cares: As stated by the OP, the 15/16" brake master cylinder is listed at most auto parts stores for about $35.. but they aren't available. I checked with every auto parts dealer within 50 miles of me and rock auto online, nobody could actually get one without the reservoirs. i had kragen and pep boys contact their supplier and they were told people weren't sending in cores for that model and they are now unavailable.

  75. #75
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. One thing you can look into is a used one from the Junk yard (Pull a part) and see if the auto parts store has a rebuild kit. Simple kit, just clean the hell out of everything.

    As stated, I bought mine without the resevoirs, about $100 cheaper cause the 280ZX has the electric fluid level tops. And the 240Z Resevoirs squeeze right on there.

    Thanks again,
    Dave
    Rate my Z at Car Domain.com
    My 70' 240Z, Daily Driver

    My Parking Light and Headlight Upgrade Harness's at MotorSport Auto
    HLH - PLH - SCP - ZXP's at MSA *They accept PayPal!!*
    Headlight Upgrade Harness info here at ClassicZCar Club
    HLH info at CZCC Do a search for info on the other upgrades I offer.

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