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Thread: sourcing electrical upgrade parts

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    Default sourcing electrical upgrade parts

    I want to add some relays for the head lights, starter, electric fans etc.
    Relays are $7.50 @ Radio Shack. Then you need to source the sockets. I found some on ebay @ $4 each + $1.50 shipping. Adds up to $13 each assembly Then you need fuses and fuse holders.
    I'm thinking buying these and just using the parts I need makes more sense.
    I can't make a junk yard run anytime soon and I can't find my old z31 relay stash.
    Just thought I'd get some outside input.
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    What are you planning on, do you want to cut your excisting harness ?, if not, you will need plugs that will fit your excisting harness.
    -73 240Z HLS30-171039
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisZ View Post
    What are you planning on, do you want to cut your excisting harness ?, if not, you will need plugs that will fit your excisting harness.
    Well I'm pretty sure I'll have to cut the existing wiring somewhere to install relays Chris
    I'm not installing HID lights and I won't be using those HID headlight connectors. I'm buying the kit for the parts. I just want the relays, relay sockets, fuseholders, etc.
    If RS sold relay sockets to go along with their relays then I'd consider buying everything there but they don't sell the sockets anymore.
    I'm curious why the relay upgrade writeups use a relay for each light.
    None of my modern Z cars used separate relays for each light.

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    Mike,
    Search this site, and you'll find links to where my relay modification resides. Given the choice, I would do an install like Dave's (Zs-ondabrain). His is plug and play. Yes, it costs more, but you have less risk of messing up something.
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    You could also check out some of the electronics suppliers. www.digikey.com for example.

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    I concur w/SteveJ. I am NOT an electrical wizard. I am not a wizard of any genre of expertise with the possible exception of welding.... but that's off topic.

    Dave has a superb product line, each tested and approved by countless customers, including me! Price is a function of value, and for my hard-earned and very scarce retirement dollar, David's stuff cannot be replicated or duplicated for the price he charges. Plus, you have the satisfaction of relatively instant customer service via this medium or email. David, like any other entrepreneur, doesn't want any dissatisfied customers, so he will do whatever is required to make things right should something go wrong. And he makes damned good chocolates, too.
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    I checked out the kit that Dave makes and it looks great but...I'm a DIY kinda guy. And if you've seen my car then you see I'm not the least bit purist so I don't mind trying something new. It looks very simple but I promise if I have trouble I won't come back asking for sympathy
    Thanks for the parts sources GreenZZZ & jwtaylor. I'll look for your posts SteveJ. Thanks all.

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    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    You can also find various parts at Amazon.com, too. I can also personally vouch for Vintage Connections. I bought a bunch of connectors from him a while back, and I love using them.

    Mike, before you start cutting wires, send me a PM so we might have a chance to talk about what you want to do. It could save you some headaches later on.
    Last edited by SteveJ; 04-30-2010 at 04:57 AM.
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    I also second Dave's relay upgrades...completely plug and play. I know you said you are more of a DIY guy...but for the price and the quality, it cant be beat.
    1972 240Z - 3.1L with some goodies
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJ View Post
    You can also find various parts at Amazon.com, too. I can also personally vouch for Vintage Connections. I bought a bunch of connectors from him a while back, and I love using them.

    Mike, before you start cutting wires, send me a PM so we might have a chance to talk about what you want to do. It could save you some headaches later on.
    Ok but I think what I'm doing here is pretty basic. I just want to power the head lights with a relay. I plan to do the same for the starter. And if I decide to go with electric fans on the radiator I'll power those with a relay also.
    I'm surprised that spst relays and sockets are so much harder to find than spdt relays and sockets. I've heard that yu can use a spdt relay by ignoring the 87a terminal but I'm not sure about that.
    I am curious about why people use two relays for the head lights if you can answer that. And I'm wondering why a relay isn't used for the tail lights.
    I'll send you a PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikez73 View Post
    Ok but I think what I'm doing here is pretty basic. I just want to power the head lights with a relay. I plan to do the same for the starter. And if I decide to go with electric fans on the radiator I'll power those with a relay also.
    Yes, it is basic. It's just a matter of knowing which wires go to what. If you know how to read wiring diagrams, you're probably in good shape. The 240Z's wiring diagram is pretty simple.
    I'm surprised that spst relays and sockets are so much harder to find than spdt relays and sockets. I've heard that yu can use a spdt relay by ignoring the 87a terminal but I'm not sure about that.
    87a is the normally closed contact. Just make sure the wire on the relay socket that goes to the 87a pin is not able to touch ground. Put some electrical tape on it, heat shrink the end, or put on a butt splice. Just don't leave it exposed.
    I am curious about why people use two relays for the head lights if you can answer that. And I'm wondering why a relay isn't used for the tail lights.
    I'll send you a PM.
    You need two relays because you need a normally open contact (87) for the lowbeams and a normally open contact (87) for the high beams. if you look at the circuit diagram that is on the Zhome website, it might help clarify things for you.

    Basically, when you turn on the headlights with the combo switch, it completes a circuit through the dimmer switch on the other side of the steering column. The low beam wire from that switch will energize the coil on the low beam relay, and the high beam wire from the switch will energize the coil on the high beam relay.

    There is nothing stopping you from adding relays for the parking lights. Dave even has an upgrade package for that.
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    For what it's worth, I also installed Dave's head light upgrade way back when he first built them about '03 or '04. Top quality. I also am using the tail light upgrade as well. And for that matter the connectors that cause the front marker lights to blink along with the turn signals. Again I recommend all of his offerings. I put my starter on a relay which is vary simple, and this is vary much worth the effort.
    Any time I can take the load off of the aging original harness I do so.
    I just remembered I also used Dave's adapter for a internal regulated Alternator.
    If I thought for second that his upgraded harness were not of high quality and trouble free, I wouldn't have them on my Z.
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    Default mystery wire

    Checking over the starter relay wiring I found that the terminal on the starter solenoid has a two prong connector. The black/yellow wire from the ignition is connected there but also a thick black wire is connected as well. None of the writeups mention this wire and I don't see it in the 1973 wiring schematic. Any ideas before I start trying to trace this unexpected wire are appreciated

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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Got me there. Never heard of a thick black on the same terminal for starting the car.

    Are ya feeling like a pin cushion yet? Everyones poking with "Dave Upgrades" As humbled as I am with all the great speeches on or about my upgrades, I totally understand where you're coming from. I too, am obviously a DIY'r. It started with my First Datsun (78' 510 2-door hatchback) from hell. Many electrical isues that just needed some TLC and a few relays. It got real bad when I got my first 240Z back in 02'.

    Because I order on a grand scale, I get my relays (SPDT) for less than $2.00 each and single relay sockets for less than $1.00. and I think my dual relay sockets are about $1.50 each.

    I use 2 relays on the headlight upgrade harness because almost every car in the world has Hi beam and Low beam. As for the parking lights, I highly suggest you relay them near the switch. Most 240Z's fuseboxs melt due to the 15 amps going thru there on a constand basis. The combo switches also like to fail for the same reason. Reducing the amperage from 15 amps, down to 0.30 amps significantly increases the life of the switch, fusebox, wires and connectors.

    I would suggest you follow that thick black on the starter solenoid and tell us what you find.
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    Mike/Dave,
    I looked at my 73. I think Mike is describing the fusible link.
    Steve
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    Well yah, the fuseable link is on the main power bolt of the starter, but it sounded like he was describing a double prong connector on the solenoid, where the black/yellow connects.

    Mike, Is the black wire that's in question, on the same bolt as the battery cable, on the solenoid? If it is, then it's a fusable link. It runs from there to the fusebox and ignition.
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    Thanks for chiming in on this Dave. I used to make a few parts in the z31 world so I can relate. I'm on a really tight budget with this car or I'd seriously consider buying your harness.
    The reason I asked about two relays is because I drove z31's for years and I only remember having one head light relay. I never had to replace a relay in 10+ years driving z31's so I could be wrong. Or maybe it used a stdp relay.

    Mike/Dave,
    I looked at my 73. I think Mike is describing the fusible link.
    Steve
    I'm hurt by that
    This is definitely a wire, not a fusible link. It runs back to the main harness so it's going to be a pain to trace it down.
    I would suggest you follow that thick black on the starter solenoid and tell us what you find.
    Thanks a lot Dave

    There is a dual male spade on the solenoid terminal. A picture is worth...



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    I'm at a loss, Mike. It doesn't look anything like my 240Z. I'll do some looking around tonight if I have the chance.
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    It's an add on of some sort. Follow it. The Vinyl sleeved wire is stock, or looks that way, so I would follow the striped wire and see where it goes.

    Just me take on it.
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    It is to activate your fuel pump while cranking, after that the altenator takes over, so the fuel pump will not run unless the engine does.

    Chris
    -73 240Z HLS30-171039
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    See there, That totally makes sense. If I would have really thought about it, I might have come to that conclusion.

    Good show mate,
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    NUTs according to wife ChrisZ's Avatar
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    Tell me how i know, just spend a ****e load of time, chasing bugs, my fuel pump didn't work, it turned out to be the relay, ive read they are NLA, can anyone confirm that, i'm thinking about a solution that involves taking a mini relay and implant it inside the old relay, that is if i cant get a new.

    Chris
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikez73 View Post
    I checked out the kit that Dave makes and it looks great but...I'm a DIY kinda guy.
    Quote Originally Posted by Zs-ondabrain View Post
    I totally understand where you're coming from. I too, am obviously a DIY'r.
    And you wrote docs too! Not sure if this is the latest docs.
    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=19934
    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=20016
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisZ View Post
    It is to activate your fuel pump while cranking, after that the altenator takes over, so the fuel pump will not run unless the engine does.

    Chris
    Thanks Chris but if that is the purpose then it isn't working. I don't have a mechanical pump. My electric fuel pump comes on when the ignition switch is "on" and it stays on. I think the original owner rewired it. The pump power wire appears to be spliced to one of the black/white wires that originally powered the ignition coil. The one that originally ran to the ballast resistor I think. I'll have to take a closer look at all that.
    Did you find this info in the 1973 FSM or the 1974 FSM?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikez73 View Post
    Thanks Chris but if that is the purpose then it isn't working. I don't have a mechanical pump. My electric fuel pump comes on when the ignition switch is "on" and it stays on. I think the original owner rewired it. The pump power wire appears to be spliced to one of the black/white wires that originally powered the ignition coil. The one that originally ran to the ballast resistor I think. I'll have to take a closer look at all that.
    Did you find this info in the 1973 FSM or the 1974 FSM?
    Mike,
    The previous owner may not have used the factory wiring. The 240Zs had wiring for electric fuel pumps even though they used mechanical pumps. The dealers used this wiring for fuel pumps for the service bulletin on the 73s and 74s with the flat top Hitachi carburetors (see Wick Humble's book).
    Steve
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    The original owner did indeed have the pump rewired. There is a red wire from the pump that is connected to the black/white wire that was originally used in the ignition circuit. The electric pump "ON and OFF" wiring is in the 74 FSM. I haven't found the black clad wire on the solenoid in the schematics yet.
    In the 74 FSM I see a simple diagram of a circuit with a "choke heater and electric pump cut #1" relay and an "electric pump cut relay #2".
    I don't think that my car has either of those relays.
    A fuel pump cut relay might be a good thing to have. Or an oil pressure activated cut. With the Webers I'd probably need an override switch for cold starts.
    I'll trace that wire down tomorrow.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenZZZ View Post
    As much as I appreciate the "Plug" Those Doc's are seriously outdated. I wrote the last ones over 4 years ago. I've since change a few thing and perfected building runs, to use less Wire in some areas, less split loom and a better all around design. I really should rewrite that some day.

    Seems like every time I write a Doc or do a write-up, the design changes for the better, then I can't change the original post and every one misses it or asks why the next guys upgraded stuff is better. Or something like that.

    Anyways, Back on topic.
    I'll be installing an electric fuel pump on the green Z after I put the triples on there (Weber 40DCOE's on a long Cannon mani.) And I actually have The fused OEM connector to plug into the plug near the fusebox.

    Good thread though, informative so far.
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    Did you find this info in the 1973 FSM or the 1974 FSM?
    Neither, i found this

    Chris
    Last edited by ChrisZ; 05-02-2010 at 10:07 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisZ View Post
    Neither, i found this

    Chris
    Ok, I read that Chris. Interesting info but no help for Mikey
    BTW, I found references to those relays in the 74 FSM.
    I don't know exactly what the purpose of the wire is on my car but but it isn't connected to my fuel pump. I found out that the starter doesn't work if it isn't connected though. That kinda throws a wrench into my starter relay plans.
    I've come to the conclusion that I need to get my carbs right before I worry about any other projects.

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    Mike,
    What's the build date on your 73? I'm wondering if it didn't get some of the 260Z wiring changes.
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    It's 2/73 Steve. I reckon that makes it pretty early?
    I've got to do something about these carbs before I do anything else. I don't know if you saw my distributor post but I have spark now. I'm having trouble getting it to start though. It's trying but it just doesn't quite catch on. I'm sure the timing is off.
    I almost had it going today but I had to stop today because one of the filters was saturated with gas.
    I hate to mess with the carbs before getting it running and timed right but there is just too much gas leaking.
    I know it's going to be a PITA to replace the gaskets and seals and then adjust the cabs but I think I can handle it.
    And getting the carbs adjusted is probably going to be complicated by the timing being off.
    I'm really missing EFI now.

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    Can you post a photo of the relays, in passengers footwell.

    If your carbs are spilling fuel like that, you should adress that first, before even trying to get a spark, replace your needle valves and check your float hight.

    Chris
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisZ View Post
    Can you post a photo of the relays, in passengers footwell.

    If your carbs are spilling fuel like that, you should adress that first, before even trying to get a spark, replace your needle valves and check your float hight.

    Chris
    That's what I'm thinking Chris. I've been getting some backfire, more like small pops, through the intake while I'm trying to get it running and I don't want any big oops happening now. My budget is too tight for a mistake like that.
    I'm trying to decide on the right kit right now.
    I can take pics of the area the relays are in but you'll need to ID them. In fact if I find out I don't need them I might be able to help you out if the relays are what's holding you back and you can't find any. As far as I can tell they aren't doing what the Nissan engineers intended on my car. I'm not a purist at all and this car will never be put back anywhere close to stock as long as I own it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikez73 View Post
    It's 2/73 Steve. I reckon that makes it pretty early?
    I've got to do something about these carbs before I do anything else. I don't know if you saw my distributor post but I have spark now. I'm having trouble getting it to start though. It's trying but it just doesn't quite catch on. I'm sure the timing is off.
    I almost had it going today but I had to stop today because one of the filters was saturated with gas.
    I hate to mess with the carbs before getting it running and timed right but there is just too much gas leaking.
    I know it's going to be a PITA to replace the gaskets and seals and then adjust the cabs but I think I can handle it.
    And getting the carbs adjusted is probably going to be complicated by the timing being off.
    I'm really missing EFI now.
    Mike, would you stop killing off EVERY half-decent idea I come up with?
    About all I have left is to get a cable tracker, detach the wire from the starter, and trace where it runs to. (I've had to do this at work to trace miswired equipment.)
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    They're great ideas Steve...we're just dealing with an unusual car here
    You should have been around when I was wiring up the electronic ignition. I was looking around for a ballast resistor that wasn't there, then a black/white wire that should have had 12v but didn't, and then there was the black/yellow wire that shouldn't have been there but was...and had 12v. Not to mention pulling my hair out trying to figure out why something so simple that it only needed one 12v wire to work wasn't working.
    I still don't know how the resistor was bypassed to get 12v in on and run.
    That's a cool looking tool there but I just blew this month's car money on Weber carb kits
    I'm going to have my hands full and my brain taxed trying to rebuild those carbs and get them adjusted while trying to get the ignition timing right too.

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    Mike, i'm starting to be confused now, there is tree different topics you have started and they tend to get mixed up, atleast in my head.

    Please answer these questions.
    1. Is the carbs spilling fuel while cranking ?
    2. Have you opened the throttle adjustment screw a quarter of a turn on each carb.?
    3. Is your electrical fuel pump running, when the car is ?

    Chris
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisZ View Post
    Mike, i'm starting to be confused now, there is tree different topics you have started and they tend to get mixed up, atleast in my head.

    Please answer these questions.
    1. Is the carbs spilling fuel while cranking ?
    2. Have you opened the throttle adjustment screw a quarter of a turn on each carb.?
    3. Is your electrical fuel pump running, when the car is ?

    Chris
    Don't worry, I'm confused too The carbs talk doesn't really belong in this thread. The main reason that came up is because the leaking has gotten to the point that I need to stop working on the electrical projects until I get the leak fixed. And I think you brought up the fuel pump. I'll go ahead and answer those questions.
    1. yes, the rearmost carb is the worst but all three have gas coming out of the horns. The filter on #3 got totally saturated with gas yesterday.
    2. No. I didn't want to work on the carbs yet but the leaking seems to have gotten worse so now I have to do it. I ordered service kits from eurocarbs.com last night.
    3. The pump comes on when the ignition switch is turned to "on." It stops running only when the key is turned to "off" or "acc". I pulled the fuse when I was troubleshooting the ignition problem.
    I think I have a carb thread so I'll try to keep the carb talk in the carb thread.

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    Okay, let's continue here assuming that is the topic you are referring to.

    Chris
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    Default pics for Chris




















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    If you need bigger pics I have the originals.




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    Mike, one or two pics would have been enough, let's take the last one.

    You have the fuel pump harness, the relay at the bottom left is what is activated by your starter and altenator, that relay activates the relay at the buttom right, the one with green and black wires.

    If you take off the 4 wire plug fron the relay at the left and make a jumper and connect two of the wires (can't remember the colors) your fuel pump should run of the original harness, the black/white goes to your starter, if you find the wire gong to your altenator and leave that out, you should jump the two last, hope it makes sence.

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    Mike, one or two pics would have been enough, let's take the last one.

    You have the fuel pump harness, the relay at the bottom left is what is activated by your starter and altenator, that relay activates the relay at the buttom right, the one with green and black wires.

    If you take off the 4 wire plug fron the relay at the left and make a jumper and connect two of the wires (can't remember the colors) your fuel pump should run of the original harness, the black/white goes to your starter, if you find the wire gong to your altenator and leave that out, you should jump the two last, hope it makes sence.

    Chris
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    I must have misunderstood you intent in asking for pics. I thought you wanted pics of the relays you were having trouble getting to get your car going.
    I'm happy with the current wiring although I might like to have an oil pressure switch in the circuit to prevent the pump running after an accident. I would need a mean to deactivate it for cold starts though.

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    It might work to wire in two parallel relays for the fuel pump, one is activated (deactivated) by the oil pressure switch (or better a oil pressure fuel cutout switch which is more sensitive), the second one by the starter solenoid wire. In an ideal world you would have also a timer which activates the fuel pump for 2-4 seconds after ignition is switched on to build up the initial pressure in the fuel system.

    A simpler solution might be to integrate an inertia switch (fuel pump shut off switch), which deactives the fuel pump on impact. You can get those switches at race equipment stores, retrofitting them to a car is quite straightforward.

    http://www.smartracingproducts.com/c...electrical.htm
    http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...s.asp?RecId=87

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    Resets with a simple push on the top of the switch.
    For hard nosed racers no doubt
    Those look like good option Adrian but I've pretty much blown the z budget for this month. And maybe next month.
    I do want to try that starter relay mod and install an IR alternator. I've got all the parts to do those but first I need to find the other end of that mystery wire on the starter solenoid.

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    Look at post #43

    Relay at left has a black / white wire, this wire ends up on your starter, ohm it out and you will see.

    Chris
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    How does this circuit look for headlight relays?

    I forgot to add a fuse.

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    Mike,

    Here is what I did.
    Attached Files Attached Files

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikez73 View Post
    How does this circuit look for headlight relays?
    I forgot to add a fuse.
    I hope you're considering separate fuses for the two headlights. That way, if you lose low beams, you may still have the high beams.
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    Good point. Curtis has provisions to keep the left and right from going out with the same fuse.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJ View Post
    I hope you're considering separate fuses for the two headlights. That way, if you lose low beams, you may still have the high beams.
    Does it matter which way I do that? I could run two wires w/ fuses from battery/alt to the relays or just install the fuses after the one wire separates to go to the relays.
    Also it seems like running ground wires from the two headlight plugs would be better...as in the second poic.


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    I suggest separate wires. That way you won't have a splice to split the power.
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    From the standpoint of electrical noise, it's always a good idea to incorporate a "star" ground. That means gathering all the current return lines into one ground stud aka "the golden spike". That way the variable resistance from corrosion and painted surfaces encountered while carrying the return current through the frame, body shell, etc. is removed. Have you ever heard a click or pop over the radio speaker when you turn on the headlights, or turn signals, or a hum from the ignition coil? This will be eliminated with the star ground, though it takes more wire, adding cost and weight. It should be placed as close to the negative terminal of the battery as possible.

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    As I speak from experience......
    Run a single larger gauge power wire toward the relays. Fuse that wire either at the battery or near the relays. Split the power wire (1-10 gauge power wire, split into 2-12ga wires.)

    Ground the headlights seperately, Close to each headlight. No need to star ground these, no electrical noise issues. Just keep the grounds short and tight and clean.

    Been doing this for about 25 years now. Actually make a good living at it. So do what you want but K.I.S.S. Keep it Simple Stupid.

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    I think I'll keep it simple Whenever I try to think about electricity everything goes gray and I start getting sleepy lol. I don't see any 10amp fuses in your harness. Unnecessary?

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    I use a single 30 amp fuse just before the split into the relays. I use 30's because there are normally 2) 10 amp fuses but a lot of people (like me) have higher output bulbs (I use 90/100 H4's)

    You could probably use a 20 or 25 but 30 is good.

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    Fuses are to protect the wire, not the load. Size the wire to the nominal load current, then fuse it. In the event of a chaffed/shorted wire, the fuse blows instead of melting the wire and causing a fire.

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    I fuse mine near the relays because some people like to connect the power wire to the Alternator, starter or the battery. They of coarse have to Cut the wire to size when doing anything other than the battery, and this leaves the fuse holder in place and untouched. Gotta think like everyone else might, when building products that go all over the World.

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    I can't figure out how you do the parking light relays. That looks more complicated than the headlights.

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    It's actually pretty simple.
    My kit includes a new fused power wire that goes from the battery to the steering column.
    A relay is bolted to the underside of the column and #86 is grounded there.
    The green/white parking light output wire is tapped via a "T" connector.
    The switch side of that wire goes into #85
    #30 from the relay goes to the other side of that wire (toward the dash- output)
    The fused power wire goes into the relays #87

    So the switch now operates the relay, the relay is powered from the battery, the relay is controlled by a simple ground and the switch supplies the activation power. Simple.

    If you wanna do your own, just use a test light and find the green/blue (from the fusebox into the switch) and the green/white out of the switch to the lights.

    Dave
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    As happens so often, Dave beat me to the answer. I was going to propose something similar. I was looking at the wiring diagram this morning, but I didn't have a chance to write something up before I had to leave to catch a plane. Actually, that gets me thinking that I could do something like that with the connectors I purchased from Vintage Connections.

    Thanks for the inspiration, Mike.
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    No problem Steve but Dave was the inspiration and both of you have been a big help. Group hug
    I've got everything hooked up but I haven't had a chance to test it yet. If I had worked smarter and spent a little more money I'd be done now and I'd be back to the ignition and carbs. The ignition I'm not worried about but I may just be stalling on the carbs

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    Yes!!! It works. I probably sound a little surprised
    I was a little wary when I turned the lights on...halfway expecting smoke and the smell of plastic burning. At first the left headlight wasn't working and I figured there was a mistake somewhere. I unplugged the connector and cleaned the blades and tried it again and everything works. Still needs a little neatening up but the lights work and the fans work and there's no smoke so I'll call it a success for now. I didn't have time to take pics but I'll post some tomorrow. Thanks again to Steve, Dave and everyone that helped.
    I got my grill and airdam back on too but then I had to quit and go cut the grass. Need headlights on the lawnmower

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    I don't like the way the relays are mounted but they are mounted and they work and that's god for now.




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    Quote Originally Posted by Zs-ondabrain View Post
    It's actually pretty simple.
    My kit includes a new fused power wire that goes from the battery to the steering column.
    A relay is bolted to the underside of the column and #86 is grounded there.
    The green/white parking light output wire is tapped via a "T" connector.
    The switch side of that wire goes into #85
    #30 from the relay goes to the other side of that wire (toward the dash- output)
    The fused power wire goes into the relays #87

    So the switch now operates the relay, the relay is powered from the battery, the relay is controlled by a simple ground and the switch supplies the activation power. Simple.

    If you wanna do your own, just use a test light and find the green/blue (from the fusebox into the switch) and the green/white out of the switch to the lights.

    Dave
    I can't find a green/blue. And I'm not even surprised by this

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    It's on the combo switch and you can follow it to the connector (5" away)
    There's a green/white and a green/blue on the switch. You'll also find those wires at the connector. Find the one that always has power, then ignore it. Then find the other that tests (+) when you turn on the parking lights. That wire, from the switch, goes to the relay to turn it on. Then the output (#30) goes back to the wire heading away from the switch.

    Confused yet?
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    Default daniel stern lighting

    http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

    This is a pretty good site for the DIYer. I think the schematic is easy to understand and he is helpful with any questions.

    I also decide to go with a ganged 6 circuit fuse block from these folks
    http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d136.html

    later on if I want to wire in a electric fan, I will have some extra circuits. It comes with a #8 stranded power wire that is 12" long so you can place the box whereever. I will wire the relays close to it for the headlights.(Once I get thru wiring hell in trying to remember where everything goes on my harness-I can't even get my dash lights to work yet)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zs-ondabrain View Post
    It's on the combo switch and you can follow it to the connector (5" away)
    There's a green/white and a green/blue on the switch. You'll also find those wires at the connector. Find the one that always has power, then ignore it. Then find the other that tests (+) when you turn on the parking lights. That wire, from the switch, goes to the relay to turn it on. Then the output (#30) goes back to the wire heading away from the switch.

    Confused yet?
    Dave
    No, I'm with you. Your instructions were good...I just can't find a g/l wire. I looked at the FSM schematic and I traced out it's path but I can't find it at the switch or the fuse block. I'll look again today.

    madkaw...I've wired up dual fans. I even used some of my weather pack stash left over from my shiro. A fuse block and a relay block would tidy the wiring up though.
    I'm not a believer in the "e-fans free up HP" theory so I may go back to the mechanical fan at some point.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisZ View Post
    Mike, one or two pics would have been enough, let's take the last one.

    You have the fuel pump harness, the relay at the bottom left is what is activated by your starter and altenator, that relay activates the relay at the buttom right, the one with green and black wires.

    If you take off the 4 wire plug fron the relay at the left and make a jumper and connect two of the wires (can't remember the colors) your fuel pump should run of the original harness, the black/white goes to your starter, if you find the wire gong to your altenator and leave that out, you should jump the two last, hope it makes sence.

    Chris
    Ok I did some more reading on that supplement and peeled the tape off the harness and you were pretty much right on. Maybe Nissan jumped the gun on my 2/73 or the original owner had a dealer install the "upgrades".
    The problem is that this circuit isn't connected to my fuel pump but it does prevent the starter from cranking if the b/y wire is removed from the solenoid.
    In the first pic you can see where the b/y (b/faded-white?) wire from the solenoid goes to a green multi-connector and the b/y goes to the relay you pointed out. You can also see the blue tap that the PO used to get 12v to the fuel pump. It's on a b/w wire from the white connector.
    In the second pic you see a green wire from relay B and a green wire from the 4 pin plug that feeds relay A go to two 2 pin plugs with a b/w jumper wire. Those wires are very long. You can see part of them coiled up and zip-tied to relay B in the first pic.


  71. #71
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    In my efforts to improve my car I've somehow managed to make it worse.
    Before I removed the electric fuel pump (and maybe before the 280zx alternator) I had finally managed to get spark in my ignition system. Now that I have the mechanical fuel pump in and I'm ready to start it up...I don't have power to the coil anymore.

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    I noticed today that my turn signals no longer work. I checked the fuse and it was burnt out. I replaced the fuse. As soon as I turned the key to "on" the new fuse burned out. In the upgrades I've been working on I haven't touched this circuit but apparently I've screwed it up somehow. The emergency lights still work.
    Since the fuse burned out when I turned the key on, I think this may have something to do with the car not getting power to the coil wire.

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    Ok I've got power to the coil now. Silly mistake. Still need to figure out the flasher fuse blowing when the ignition switch is turned to "on".

  74. #74
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    Are you sure you didn't end up with a loose wire around the steering column or make a wrong connection there? That could cause a dead short.
    73 240Z
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    No Steve. That would be a good guess but I didn't get around to doing the TS relay mod.
    I think I wrote down the wrong terminals to jump in the IR alternator swap. I wrote down "jump b/w to b" when it is of course supposed to be b/w to w/b. I'll check that out in a bit. And looking at the 240z wiring...that b/w wire goes directly to...that fuse lol

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    Sure enough that is what I did. Changed the jumper to b/w to w/b and no more blown fuses. The turn signals work now also. Kinda slow though but I haven't driven the car enough to remember if they were always slow. And the indicator lights don't work now. That is new. Maybe the bulbs blew.

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