Need transverse link bolts or car is a lawn ornament!

[woytovich]

Can you help me locate these parts:

These are the bolt/nut that hold the transverse link to the body in my 71 240z

BOLT (#54436-E4100)
NUT (#08912-84410)
WASHER (#56114-09400)

I need 2 each... they are discontinued by Nissan as far as I can tell.

I can provide pictures if you need....

THANK YOU!

Mark

[five&dime]

I just e-mailed the Nissan parts guru. I will report back if they are still available. Have you checked MSA etc? Ace often has metrics in stock too.

[woytovich]

I have not checked MSA or ACE... these are not straight metric bolts but are a specialty item.

[zKars]

Mark:

I came to me senses when I realized there is a transverse link in the front too. Dang near went batty lookin' for that part number in the rear end part of the FSM... then that picture in post #3 really threw me. Is that what was holding the transverse link up till now? Wow!

I'm sure I dig up a spare set. Drop me a note z240@shaw.ca and we'll get together.

[woytovich]

Mark:

I came to me senses when I realized there is a transverse link in the front too. Dang near went batty lookin' for that part number in the rear end part of the FSM... then that picture in post #3 really threw me. Is that what was holding the transverse link up till now? Wow!

I'm sure I dig up a spare set. Drop me a note z240@shaw.ca and we'll get together.

Yes, and the "washer" is shaped to fit it...

WHAT is that thing? Is it not stock? Was it some one-off thing? Was it an aftermarket thing? (note the hex shape of the washer and the lip where it sits in a recessed hole)

I REALLY need to see another 71 240z in this section to understand what is going on...

Mark

[Zs-ondabrain]

THESE... Are The correct bolts you need, if you're using the stock bushings.

Need them?
Dave

[Zed Head]

Yes, and the "washer" is shaped to fit it...

WHAT is that thing? Is it not stock? Was it some one-off thing? Was it an aftermarket thing? (note the hex shape of the washer and the lip where it sits in a recessed hole)

I REALLY need to see another 71 240z in this section to understand what is going on...

Mark

Might be this aftermarket part - http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icata...l.aspx?Page=41

88-702

[geezer]

Might be this aftermarket part - http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icata...l.aspx?Page=41

88-702

Yep, that's them. Not a bad product in my opinion, but they would be greatly improved if there was a way to lubricate them without taking them apart. Mine were galled/fused to the bolts so badly there was no way to take them apart without cutting the bolts. Years of sitting neglected didn't help.

PS-You didn't need two threads to get to the bottom of this issue Mark.

[woytovich]

THESE... Are The correct bolts you need, if you're using the stock bushings.

Need them?
Dave

But those bolts will not work with the rest of what I have... (will they?)

The hex washer thing fills a hole in the body side of the mount that is 1 1/8" diameter. It has a hole in it that is not round and is not centered. If I use the bolts you have will I be needing to drill out the hole to round?

This "washer" is what rests against the end of the bushing. Once it is torqued down the TA will move up/down with the rotation of the steel on steel of the washer in the hole in the mount I guess? What an odd set up...

Can you tell me how it is SUPPOSED to work? (the up/down movement of the TA and the attachment of the TA tot eh body)


Arrrgghh...

Mark

PS and I'm sorry if I started 2 threads... the first was a torque question, I didn't want to loose the opportunity for help on the broader question of what is going on with this bolt...

[woytovich]

Might be this aftermarket part - http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icata...l.aspx?Page=41

88-702

Mine is similar but not the same. Same idea though.
So, again, what is the STOCK configuration? What fills that hole? What does the bolt go through on the body side?

[Terrapin Z]

What you have in you car is a camber adjustment kit from Specialty Products

http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR...d2=83115&cmd3=

When I took my car in to get it aligned at Les Schwab. the guy pulled that exact kit out saying it was the oldest parts he had and was shocked that he had it at all in the first place.

Check out the installation instructions, what they do with that is cut a larger hole in your front cross brace 54401-E4100. install the eccentric and adjust your camber. You can never go back, once the hole is cut the stock bolt will no longer fit. To be stock again you would need to get a new cross brace.

[Zs-ondabrain]

When you posted the picture of the transverse link bushing in the first post of the other thread, That is the correct STOCK bushing, that should be used with the bolt that I posted above in post #6.

The picture below shows what the arm looks like if you tear out the stock bushing, cut the sleeve and pry the sleeve out to either #1 replace it with Poly Urethane Bushings (aftermarket Energy Suspension Part) or #2 Prepare it for a New Rubber bushing (Stock one just like in the #1 post of the other thread)

The one you have is an "Adjustable Camber" style that the Previous Owner obviously put in. So you have 3 choices.

#1 Put the one you have back in using the equipment you have, if that's possible.
#2 Put a stock bushing back in with the proper bolts like in Post #6
#3 Buy an after market Urethane bushing kit and instal it using the stock bolts like in post #6

Does that clear things up or confuse you more? Trying to help here.
Dave

[woytovich]

Well Terrapin Z is correct, he found the "kit" installed in my car... and indeed the mount has been cut out to 1 1/8".

At this point I am thinking the BEST way to handle this is to go back to a stock arrangement. I need to see the surface that the stock bushing rests against on the insides of the body-side mount.

I COULD weld the 1 1/8 hole shut and redrill for the stock bolt... but I think this would be easier and maybe better:

I'm thinking I could take the washer think, weld the hole closed and then drill the proper sized hole dead center. Use a stock bushing and a bolt of the proper shaft diameter that is long enough and torque down against the steel bushing sleeve that way. Centering the bolt on both sides rather than off center like the washer is now.

Thoughts?

Mark

[Zs-ondabrain]

I didn't realize the extent that the kit requires, that you cut the hell out of your crossmember. And I just threw one away. Sorry. If you have the large hole in your crossmember, then you're stuck with that kit, as mentioned by TerrapinZ.

There's your options in a nutshell.
Dave

[Zs-ondabrain]

That's looks like an option. Weld the hole shut with some (1/8" or 3/32") steel, center drill it to the stock width hole. I can send you the correct bolts if you need. It'll cost about $25 to overnight them and you can have them by wednesday.

If you wanna go that route, let me know asap and I'll get them to the post office in the morning.

Let me know.
Dave

[woytovich]

Well I was thinking it would be faster to just weld up the cam'washer thing and use it to "fill" the big hole (drilling a recentered hole for the right bolt)... I might need a bolt that is a bit longer in that case.

Was/is the stock inside of the body side just smooth steel with a hole in it? Does the bushing ends just rest against it or is there something else there?

What allows the TA to move up/down at this end?

mark

[woytovich]

Can you tell me the bolt diameter?

And, in your opinion, does it need to have a smooth shaft and be threaded only at the end? (does it move inside the bushing steel sleeve)? Would the threads cause problems?

[Zs-ondabrain]

Stock configuration is just a hole in the crossmember, the arm and it's bushing just sit up there and the bolt holds it in place. The rubber of the stock bushing allows the arm to move up and down. That's it. plain and simple.

Nothing on the inside of the crossmember, no washers, spacers or anything like that. just the inner steel tube of the bushing, resting between the sidewalls, compressed into place when you tighten the bolt that runs through it.

Dave

[woytovich]

I think I'm going to source compatible parts here. I'm going to weld/drill the cam thing to recenter the bolt hole and I'm going to source a bolt to do the job.

I'll take photos and report back.

On a side note: how much trouble is it to replace the crossmember/body mount (to go back to true stock)?

[Zs-ondabrain]

Not that difficult if you already have one. Not exactly an off the shelf part.
Support the motor, unbolt the motor mounts, the 2 bolts on each side of the crossmember that hold it to the frame, lower it down a little, unbolt the steering rack from the crossmember then pull the crossmember out. Put the new one in and reverse the process.

Only takes about 1/2 hour if you're prepped and ready to go. Or at least that's how long it took me.

Dave

[Curtis240Z]

The crossmember is not just a single formed "upsidedown U" shape. There is an additional steel plate for either reinforcing/proper spacing. I would replace the crossmember. Just my 2 cents.

[woytovich]

So the company that makes this camber kit, Specialty Products, WILL NOT sell me replacement bolts... they will not break apart a kit... Nice... GREAT customer service

Looks like I'm going to see about welding up the cam/washers and redrilling center holes and adding my own grade 8 bolts...

Mark

[Terrapin Z]

Curtis240Z is correct in the fact that there are spot welded on washers on the inside of the cross brace. I also agree that you should replace the whole thing.
JMHO.

I'll sell you the one I have, with the bolts and nuts if you want it. It just has the ding by the rack mount.

PM if interested

Dave

[woytovich]

Well it's that washer diameter that was cut out of the brace to install this kit. The kit's washer thing sits in this 1 1/8" hole and provides a surface to torque the bushing against. I would even hazard to say that the kit's thick washer is a more solid surface to torque against...

That said I do agree that the RIGHT way is to replace the whole thing with a stock, unmolested piece... that's not going to happen here in round one... I do not feel there is a safety issue the way I'm doing it - I wouldn't do it if I felt otherwise.

I will troll for a good stock piece for the swap sometime in the future.

mark

[woytovich]

I'll sell you the one I have, with the bolts and nuts if you want it.

Email me at mark at woytovich dot com with a price. Include shipping to zip 11731... If I can I'll grab it for the future swap...

[Terrapin Z]

Sounds like you have a handle on it. I'm sure you can get it as good as having that kit in the first place

I'll get an exact weight on it and let you know tomorrow.