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Thread: 240Z hatch repair panel

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    Default 240Z hatch repair panel

    I have a '72 and am in the process of replacing some rusted metal. I have read of the possibilty of bonding the under-hatch (above tail lights) repair panel using one of the high-tec body adhesives. Has anyone done this? I thought about using this method along with spot welds on the braces coming off the rear panel above the tag. Seems like this would eliminate the possibility of rust after welding in hard to treat areas. Any thoughts? Does anyone have one of these panels made by Nissan they would like to sell? Thanks!

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    Registered User grantf's Avatar
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    I spot welded mine on and used seam filler on the underside farely strait forword.
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    Registered User psdenno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grantf View Post
    I spot welded mine on and used seam filler on the underside farely strait forword.
    Nice job on the fix! Did you use any special coating on the original metal under the panel you welded in place? Looks like that rust went fairly deep into the rear structure..
    Dennis
    1971 240Z - Original Owner
    2010 Infiniti G37 Convertible

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    Registered User esmit208's Avatar
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    Yes it is a nice job. I too would be interested in purchasing a replacement panel. Anyone that can put us on to a source would be much appreciated. I plan to cut mine away and start fresh. Project 3/72 moves along slowly.

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    Mike B
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    Quote Originally Posted by esmit208 View Post
    I too would be interested in purchasing a replacement panel. Anyone that can put us on to a source would be much appreciated.
    http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC1C02/30-7291

    -Mike

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    Registered User doradox's Avatar
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    I got mine here for about $85 shipped. Of course the exchange rate was very favorable at the time.

    https://rsp-secure.com/rarespares/de...%20240Z%20260Z

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    Yup, It's Orange CoastGuardZ's Avatar
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    I need to do this same fix... so you actually put the new panel on top of the old rusted one? Why not cut out the old and install the new panel? I'm not a paint and body guy so take it easy on me, but that just seems hokey.
    -Nate

    1972 Datsun 240Z #HLS30-47945 (aka: Kikka)
    2007 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab Long Bed SE 4x4 6 spd
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike B View Post
    Thanks a bunch Mike

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    Registered User Walter Moore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoastGuardZ View Post
    I need to do this same fix... so you actually put the new panel on top of the old rusted one? Why not cut out the old and install the new panel? I'm not a paint and body guy so take it easy on me, but that just seems hokey.
    Depends upon your skill level. Personally I have barely mastered the pop rivet and bondo approach sufficiently to get by. If you can weld, and weld very thin sheet metal which is an even higher level skill, then your approach to repairs will be different I suspect.
    '71 240Z, Because any fool can drive fast in a straight line.

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    Yup, It's Orange CoastGuardZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walter Moore View Post
    Depends upon your skill level. Personally I have barely mastered the pop rivet and bondo approach sufficiently to get by. If you can weld, and weld very thin sheet metal which is an even higher level skill, then your approach to repairs will be different I suspect.
    You're a far sight better than me... I will be taking it to a body shop
    -Nate

    1972 Datsun 240Z #HLS30-47945 (aka: Kikka)
    2007 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab Long Bed SE 4x4 6 spd
    2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8s SE (Wife-Mobile)

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    Looks good grantf...does it seem like the seam sealer will keep the water out from under the panel (above the tail light panel)? That's the area that always rusts and after welding, it doesn't look like there's a way to seal it off well enough to prevent future rust.

    CoastGuardZ, you do remove the old part first...I didn't mean to imply that you bond on top of the original part...it has to come out first. But, there's some good sized overlap areas when installing this part that would allow you to bond it in and not have to worry about untreated areas.

    Thansk for the leads guys...MSA seems a little high on that part although it's supposed to be a quality piece. That's a really good price on the Aussie part. doradox, how is the quality on that part?

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    Quote Originally Posted by CarolinaTZ View Post
    Looks good grantf...does it seem like the seam sealer will keep the water out from under the panel (above the tail light panel)? That's the area that always rusts and after welding, it doesn't look like there's a way to seal it off well enough to prevent future rust.

    CoastGuardZ, you do remove the old part first...I didn't mean to imply that you bond on top of the original part...it has to come out first. But, there's some good sized overlap areas when installing this part that would allow you to bond it in and not have to worry about untreated areas.

    Thansk for the leads guys...MSA seems a little high on that part although it's supposed to be a quality piece. That's a really good price on the Aussie part. doradox, how is the quality on that part?
    The price on the Aussie part was good mainly because of the exchange rate at the time which was about 1.5 AUD to 1 USD. It's about 1.15 AUD to 1 USD right now. I and another member bought one each so the shipping was a little less per unit also. The quality is good but the hole that the latch protrudes through is a little smaller than the one on my 72 so it's not an exact replacement for that year. I can't vouch for any other year.

    Steve
    I slipped into my jeans
    Lookin' hard and feelin' mean
    I took a spit at the moon

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    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarolinaTZ View Post
    I have a '72 and am in the process of replacing some rusted metal. I have read of the possibilty of bonding the under-hatch (above tail lights) repair panel using one of the high-tec body adhesives. Has anyone done this? I thought about using this method along with spot welds on the braces coming off the rear panel above the tag. Seems like this would eliminate the possibility of rust after welding in hard to treat areas. Any thoughts? Does anyone have one of these panels made by Nissan they would like to sell? Thanks!
    I've used a body adhesive instead of using roset (sp?) welds on a truck bed panel and it has held for the last 7 years no problem. FYI spot welds are made with two panels roset (sp?) welds are the ones when you drill a hole and weld, and with a little paint look like spot welds. The truck had 86 spot welds that I would need to roset weld, so the adhesive looked like a good idea.

    I don't know if it would be a good idea to weld metal with the adhesive in the middle. You would damage the adhesive bond and contaminate the welds making poor bonding on two accounts. On my 240z the have seem sealer along the seems in this area and that kept it from rusting from below. I have the rust in the corner from the top it got a little thin and pin-holed so I'm replacing and will have it spot welded and put on new seam sealer. However if I was not going for an original, or I was replace this panel, but was not stripping the car to a shell I'd consider using these automotive bonding adhesives. It is easy just get a whole bunch of clamps, and you won't need seem sealer.

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    Registered User grantf's Avatar
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    Sorry I have been away on a motorcycle cross country trip up into Canada for the last five days....
    No you need to remove the old metal piece first, I plug welded mine back were the old spot welds were. As for metal treatment I removed as much rust as I could then used rust converter in the hard to reach places, all metal was stripped bare than coated with weld thru primer. after welding seam sealer (out of a caulking tube) was used between the new part and adjoining panels, this was how it was originally installed at the factory. hope this helps clarify.
    Last edited by grantf; 07-26-2010 at 05:43 PM.

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    Alright!...another motorcycle guy. Never been into Canada...just a lot of trips to East Tennessee and NC mountains. Anyway, back to the subject. I'll be bonding the new panel in. I finished removing the old on last night from a fairly rustfree 240 and there's a ton of surface rust on the remaining panel. There's a couple of inches of metal overlap where these panels meet which will give a good bond. And it will be permanently sealed from water. There are 4 spotwelds for the extra braces above the tag, which I will weld. Thanks for the input, guys.

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    Installed the replacement panel with 3m panel adhesive...worked great and solid as a rock. And water can't get to it at all...serves as it own seem sealer.

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