Results 1 to 31 of 31

Thread: Not much power :(

  1. #1
    Registered User Co0kieduster's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-23084
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    New Bern, NC
    Age
    37
    Posts
    48

    Default Not much power :(

    Just picked up a 1974 260 with an L24 engine, eventually I plan on rebuilding the car frame up and swapping out the L24 for an L28 turbo, but would at least like to have some fun with it till I get the money and a place to do the rebuild. Unfortunately the L24 with dual weber 32/30 carbs seems to be lacking in power. I know that it at least needs a valve adjustment( a bit of annoying tapping). But other than that it runs great the carbs seem to be fine. When i rev it up it sounds awesome and doesn't flutter has consistent pull all the way through the power band. But just lacks in power all together. My brother has a 4 banger prelude rated at 161 hp and it feels 10x more powerful. In fact, im pretty sure my POS old F150 with the original 4.9iL 6 could beat my Z off the line .....sad. Is this what I should expect? Would timing the valves improve horse power that much? Should i learn how to tune up the carbs? Where should i start?

    Any help/suggestions much appreciated.

  2. #2
    Registered User Dobber's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-23120
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Crofton b.c.
    Age
    67
    Posts
    95

    Default

    There are many, many variables that can affect the power output of a particular engine. You state that it seems to pull smoothly throughout the rev. range. I guess this is without stumbling, missing, bogging etc.. Does this car still have smog setup? Does it have a cat. conv.? If so is it plugged? Is your air intake clear? Have you checked the timing with a light? Your valve lash prob. does need to be set, but I would check some of the easier stuff first. How old is the fuel? Are your brakes dragging?
    Its hard to compare older tech. with new. I.e. Honda 4 banger. Even in poor tune it could give the Z a run for the money. Take it a step at a time and systematically check through the systems. You may also want to do a compression and leak down test to get a good base line. Good luck. Anything can be fixed.

  3. #3
    Registered User Co0kieduster's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-23084
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    New Bern, NC
    Age
    37
    Posts
    48

    Default

    No cat. straight piped. going to check the filters. New fuel. Brakes don't drag. ...will probably change the filters and time the valves....then do a compression and leak down test. wonder how much it would cost to put a better cam in when i time the valves?

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-2139
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Salem Or
    Posts
    1,556

    Default

    A lot of these ~40 year old L series engines, good as they were, are just tired. A set of compression numbers will tell you where you need to go next.
    It's not a whole lot different than chasing after Hitachi SUs that are 90% worn out. You can chase, but you won't catch a solution you'll be happy with.
    Merry Christmas.
    Bruce Palmer
    Salem Or
    Sales@ztherapy.com
    www.ztherapy.com
    503-587-9800

  5. #5
    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-8596
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon, USA
    Age
    63
    Posts
    8,465

    Default

    Also bear in mind that while these cars were considered quick and responsive compared to the other similar priced sports cars of that time, by today's standards even a healthy (but relatively stock) 240Z is pretty tame. So don't expect too much from a stock-motored Z.

    For example, test numbers from 1970 showed 0-60 in 8.7. These days, most any econobox can beat that. (My DD 2010 Golf diesel will do it in 8.6.)
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

  6. #6
    Registered User Co0kieduster's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-23084
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    New Bern, NC
    Age
    37
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Ok so, after initially cleaning things up, I think i will try some relatively inexpensive upgrades. I've been told that the camshaft is the best place to start (working from the inside out). The engine will be almost completely experimental for me as it is my first toy. I'm excited to try things and find out what works and what doesn't, of course, a little guidance is always nice.
    Merry Christmas

  7. #7
    Registered User Dobber's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-23120
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Crofton b.c.
    Age
    67
    Posts
    95

    Default

    You need to look at the whole picture in a realistic light. If your expectations exceed the ability of the car to deliver, you will never be happy with the performance. Changing the cam will not force untold h.p. from the engine. That will only come with making the best out of what you have, with proper tuning and attention to detail or a complete rebuild. Remember that even when the car was brand new, there was probably only about 135 rear wheel h.p.. The fact that the car was so light, made it a fun car, of its time, to drive. Out of the box the Z was never and will never, be a super car. Thats why you see so many components being offered by aftermarket manufacturers. Rebuilding any car, let alone a 40year old car, is, expensive, time consuming, skill set reliant and will take up a fairly large area of the shop, yard, house. Not trying to lay a bummer on you, just saying that when it comes to owning these older cars ( unless your rolling in the dough and can just have someone else build your dream car ) is a commitment that can't be taken lightly.

  8. #8
    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7115
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Posts
    1,221

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dobber View Post
    You need to look at the whole picture in a realistic light. If your expectations exceed the ability of the car to deliver, you will never be happy with the performance. Changing the cam will not force untold h.p. from the engine. That will only come with making the best out of what you have, with proper tuning and attention to detail or a complete rebuild. Remember that even when the car was brand new, there was probably only about 135 rear wheel h.p.. The fact that the car was so light, made it a fun car, of its time, to drive. Out of the box the Z was never and will never, be a super car. Thats why you see so many components being offered by aftermarket manufacturers. Rebuilding any car, let alone a 40year old car, is, expensive, time consuming, skill set reliant and will take up a fairly large area of the shop, yard, house. Not trying to lay a bummer on you, just saying that when it comes to owning these older cars ( unless your rolling in the dough and can just have someone else build your dream car ) is a commitment that can't be taken lightly.
    I agree just changing one thing does not make power. It needs to be a systematic approach, the whole car needs to be looked at as a package. Even the caliper and rotor sizes can effect performance of the drive-line suspension and braking. Bigger tires can slow cars down, but to small a tire and you can't apply power properly, tire size can also effect turning and torque and hp at the wheel. A cam is like a set brain it tells the engine how long the valves should be open and when, so the cam needs to match potential intake and exhaust flow rates, with how long the valve can be fully open, that deals with piston type valve size the whole nine yards. Even when you want the engine to create power.

    Now lets say you hop-up this engine, and you do nothing to the drive line you won't get a lot a power to the wheels the whole drive-line needs to be upgraded to match power-bands from the engine torque . . . Then you need to change the suspention system to match the driveline, and the tires so you can apply the power then the bakes need to be changed to match the new driveline and tires, then the driveline and suspention need to match the brakes and tire forces. the diff will need exsta mods to match the stearing and the stearing needs to be modified to handel the new forces . . . this goes on and on till you get it right.

    This is also why I shy away from modified cars usually, because 99.99% of people modify cars don't look at the whole picture, and the adjustments that are needed to match their modifications. This won't mean I'll buy a modified car, I have in the past; it just means I need to see what is needed and think it is worth it to make the adjustments, or the car is well balanced from the seller.

  9. #9
    Express Japanese Taxi ozconnection's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-10105
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Age
    54
    Posts
    304

    Default

    Excellent advice here....take heed my friend.

    I don't think ANY stock L Series puts 135HP (100kw) to the wheels, flywheel yes but not the wheels. Sooooo atw maybe 100hp or so.

    Good luck with your project.

    '78 280C sedan P30 Y70 L4N71B 4.11 H190 N/A A 'NEW" engine combination 131 rwhp.
    '71 240C coupe N42 NEW E88 FS5W71B 4.33 H190 Megasquirt V3.57 212 rwhp

    'Nissantiques - join the club'

  10. #10
    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7115
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Posts
    1,221

    Default

    I'd say 120hp on the high end for one in good condition might be right for a 240z that would be about a 20% power loss at the wheel with a good performing engine and drive-line.

    These cars have some power, tune the 260Z up you stated the valves need work well how much power is that costing you? How worn is the engine? Do you have good compression? is the drive line in good shape, how are the bearings, hows the clutch, how is the points and wires . . . You don't haft to go crazy to have a good performing car, just good care goes a long way

  11. #11
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-2169
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    NorthCoast, Ohio
    Age
    60
    Posts
    6,497

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Co0kieduster View Post
    Just picked up a 1974 260 with an L24 engine
    That seems to be the first big problem. It's missing 200cc of displacement. Why did it get a smaller engine than it originally had?
    Last edited by TomoHawk; 12-25-2010 at 04:08 PM.
    Drive Responsibly.
    enjoy classic Rock music.

  12. #12
    Former frequent poster sblake01's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-3797
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Bernardino, Ca. U.S.A.
    Age
    70
    Posts
    10,574

    Default

    xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
    Last edited by sblake01; 12-25-2010 at 03:38 PM. Reason: Violated one of my personal rules...........
    2004 Ford Ranger EDGE Supercab
    (@Moonpup: This one really is an EDGE!)
    2005 Pontaic GTO
    2010 Mercedes Benz C300 AMG Sportline (Wife's car)
    2014 Kia Rio LX (Wife's daily driver)
    Certified HVAC/MVAC Technician

  13. #13
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-2169
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    NorthCoast, Ohio
    Age
    60
    Posts
    6,497

    Default

    Sorry, I meant to say it's missing the L26 engine, which has an extra 200cc of displacement, not cylinders.
    Last edited by TomoHawk; 12-25-2010 at 04:10 PM.
    Drive Responsibly.
    enjoy classic Rock music.

  14. #14
    Express Japanese Taxi ozconnection's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-10105
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Age
    54
    Posts
    304

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sblake01 View Post
    xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
    That makes perfect sense to me, but I don't think anyone else will know exactly what you mean.

    Could you rephrase that please?

    '78 280C sedan P30 Y70 L4N71B 4.11 H190 N/A A 'NEW" engine combination 131 rwhp.
    '71 240C coupe N42 NEW E88 FS5W71B 4.33 H190 Megasquirt V3.57 212 rwhp

    'Nissantiques - join the club'

  15. #15
    Registered User Co0kieduster's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-23084
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    New Bern, NC
    Age
    37
    Posts
    48

    Default

    From what i understand the L26 is exactly the same engine just stroked...might be nice to have a bit more displacement...Like i said in my first post, I'm eventually looking to swap it out for an L28 anyway. I just want to see what I can do with what i have for not much money...time is not an issue (im a high school math teacher)

    Thanks for all the advice about tuning it up. Knowing where to start is what im looking for.

    To reply to ajmcforester. I knew someone out there would tell me that my car should have a bit of power One of my first thoughts was compression and two people have already mentioned that. My brother is attending UTI in Mooresville NC. Drove out there last weekend thinking he could run the tests for me but havn't had a chance just yet. Havn't pulled a single plug out. Clutch is good. There is a loose U-Joint i discovered that was hopefully causing the disturbing vibration when i let off the gas around 65mph. The list of things to do when im back in NC. (with the fam in NY for xmas till the 3rd):

    Valve timing
    Compression Test
    Change oil/oil filter
    Attempt to fix small oil leaks (oil pan i think)
    Change or clean air filters
    Check spark plugs and wires....might just change unless obviously brand new
    fix U-Joint

    Ordered a set of 215/60/14's to install....actually bigger than the 185s on there now...but i wanted wider tires

    Dont know anything about carbs. How much if any power could having a set of dual webers add? Can carbs be tuned for more power? allow more fuel? or are they just tuned or not tuned?

    Also curious about properly timed valves....intake valves closing to early sounds like hindrance on hp.

    All a learning process for me....looked up some prices on performance cam kits i little more expensive than i thought but seems like a good idea for more power without being excessive.

  16. #16
    Registered User Co0kieduster's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-23084
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    New Bern, NC
    Age
    37
    Posts
    48

    Default

    May have made myself sound like an idiot on that last sentence....I doubt i will replace the cam, but here is my thought process with what limited understanding of engines i have. Most people with these "tuners" I see everyday that sound like crotch rockets. Have just thrown random performance parts at their car without considering the "big picture". Turbo kit, intercooler, three inch pipe, etc. My thinking is if i start with the cam shaft then that would help me determine what type of exhaust and intake system i would want to go to that would work in harmony with the cam allowing for just right amount of overlap. Depending on how much power this actually adds to just the engine that would determine the upgrades to the drive train, brakes, suspension, etc.

    Correct me if this bad thinking.

  17. #17
    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7115
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Posts
    1,221

    Default

    Your going at it the wrong way just like these tuners. First off figure out what you want the car to do. Daily driver, drag car, track, weekend driver, street racer . . . This includes looks, power numbers, speed, braking, safety . . . Then ask can this car meet what I want? If yes then what is needed to meet my needs? Make a starting list then do research to figure out what would be needed. Lay out the car before you even start to modify, otherwise you will half ass the car or even cause damage or even make the car unsafe. Look at the budget and make a list of what can be done first and what order things need to be done. You might not get everything perfect off the bat, but you have a direction and a plan that will guide you on the development of the car. The guy that starts with a role cage and frame stiffening when building a car is the smart man the bones of the car need to meet the needs of the car first, and drive the slow car with the role cage. Not the guy that starts with engine mods, and ends up dropping the transmission or twisting the body or what ever else he damages on the way.

    Besides what head do you have on that L24 block the e31 head modified on a L28 block can make some serious power. The e31 head is the best shaped head and can be retrofitted to fit 280 valves to make a start of a great NA engine. These are the things you might want to think about first, would I like to go with a triple carbs or fuel injection . . .

  18. #18
    Express Japanese Taxi ozconnection's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-10105
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Age
    54
    Posts
    304

    Default Small steps.....

    There has been some very solid advice given to you already, well done people.

    Your job now is to read....read....and read.

    Understanding what you're trying to achieve is critical to the correct order of operation. Spending some money now on a tune up OF WHAT YOU ALREADY HAVE is a fantastic way of learning how everything works together.

    Modifying a car can be/is a rewarding exercise but to do it now without actually optimising what is already in front of you is a mistake IMO.

    If the car was in a very good tune already, I might suggest that you could try your hand at tinkering but your car needs some work and you need some experience. There you go, a good match already.

    Consider a medical officer. He wouldn't be able to necessarily perform the more complicated procedures without actually doing a stint as a general practioner first, gaining first hand knowledge and experience. As a Maths teacher I'm sure you'll understand this concept.

    There are those who'll disagree with me arguing that experience will only be gained by modification. Most of those people probably live at Hybridz. When it comes time to modifying your ride, you should take a look over there as well. However, be warned, if it appears that you haven't done your homework and researched the topic and ask a 'dumb' question, you'll be slammed. This site, IMO is much more tolerant of people asking 'noob' questions.

    At the end of the day, good luck. Get yourself a factory or aftermarket service manual and study that too. Give yourself small tasks and perform them as well as you can. That's how you will become familiar with your car and the world of mechanics.

    All the best mate.
    '78 280C sedan P30 Y70 L4N71B 4.11 H190 N/A A 'NEW" engine combination 131 rwhp.
    '71 240C coupe N42 NEW E88 FS5W71B 4.33 H190 Megasquirt V3.57 212 rwhp

    'Nissantiques - join the club'

  19. #19
    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7115
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Posts
    1,221

    Default

    Math and cars go hand and hand as you learn more the students that are into cars you can learn how to engage their interest in cars into math. To determine the right cam and its timing uses trig and calculus, with basic physics of flow dynamics. Even calculating carb size and fuel injector size is critical for a well operating fuel system, you go to big or to small the car does not run optimally. What idea of power do you want out of the car, do you even have an idea yet?

    The L24 is a good motor, I like it. However you need to see what you got first. My first Z when I got it, it was so badly tuned the rear carb had gas pooring out of it after the test drive, timing was off, clutch wasn't adjusted properly . . . the guy told me it's a little slow these z cars aren't fast (I must of had the weirdest look on my face hearing that). I guess he was right the car had been running on two cylinders regularly and occasionally on three, I was surprised it ran. Well the first thing I did when I bought the car was go around the corner and adjust the rear carb's fuel adjuster so it would not flood out the rear carb. Guess what more power That car needed a lot of TLC to get it road worthy, but when I was done I was happy.

    Learn the car first learn what you want, who knows maybe this is not the car for you even. It is what I like and I can tell you about Corvettes all day also, but I rather have a 240Z over most Corvettes

  20. #20
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-19635
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Posts
    2,787

    Default

    Cookie, as Arne wisely pointed out, standards for acceleration/power have increased substantively over the decades. Before you get into this project any deeper, you should ask yourself what you want the car to be and what your budget is. If the body style and heart-pounding acceleration are both important to you, you'll have a lot of work and expense ahead, in the form of engine mods and/or swaps. If you just want a fast car, I'd suggest starting out with a more modern one.

    When I bought my '78, several of my stepson's friends commented that the car was probably really fast. I responded that theirs are probably even faster, but that mine is really cool! That's the context in which I drive and enjoy my car.
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  21. #21
    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7115
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Posts
    1,221

    Default

    I love well handling cars, and the Z was that at one time I know I could buy a new car and get better handling, but then I'd need to go faster to get the same enjoyment. While with the Z it holds the road well enough that it won't flip easy, but the hardness of what it can take in the turns is less so I can push it without doing speeds that get all the cops in NJ chasing me. I also like the simplicity of the engine, and the car as a whole, the only newer car that comes close it the S2000 and I thought about getting one when my first Z was destroyed, but they are a tight fit and the Z looks cooler.

  22. #22
    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1490
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,874

    Default

    Now that you've been told what you could do, the first thing you should do and that is EVALUATE the worthiness of the vehicle.

    It doesn't matter what you want/wish to do if the car is about to fall out from under you because of RUST.

    Once you know or have assessed the rust problem, and I've yet to see an East Coast car NOT have some if it wasn't a trailer queen, then you can determine what you want the car to be/do for you.

    Then if you're going to keep the car on the road, address the SAFETY components first. Then once you're safe and sound, THEN you can determine what to change/modify.

    FWIW
    E

  23. #23
    Registered User Co0kieduster's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-23084
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    New Bern, NC
    Age
    37
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Thanks for all the sound advice. I am looking for a daily driver that has some decent power, more than 151, idk...somewhere between 170 and 200? Don't know how reasonable that is. Just looking for a little extra power without having to go through all the steps to strengthen the frame and make it into a race car. I don't want a drag car or a race car. I want it to be comfortable, fun to drive, have a good sound system, and look freakin good. Also would like to get as much power from the engine to the wheels. I don't know if an engine producing 151 but only getting 100 to 120 of that to the wheels is good or bad? What kind of reasonable steps can be taken to get more of that to the wheels? I would be happy with only small hp gains in the engine if i could just get more of it to the wheels. Again i dont know what numbers are reasonable. I hope i've been able to clear up my goals.

    If i just drop in an L28 at some point will that mesh good with the rest of the car as is?

  24. #24
    Registered User Co0kieduster's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-23084
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    New Bern, NC
    Age
    37
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Oh and ajmcforester....love the S2000 also, that and the BMW Z4 Coupe are on my wish list.

  25. #25
    Still plays with cars kenz240z's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-6323
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Berthoud, CO
    Age
    53
    Posts
    738

    Default

    I have a L28/5-speed from an '82 ZX in my '73. Running SU's instead of EFI. Diffy is a R-180 3.90 out of a mid-80's 4X4. My Z is quick off the line, but nowhere near my '97 Camaro Z28 with an LT-1/6-speed. The Camaro is fun for hot rodding around town and running errands. The Z is fun for spirited driving on the twisty roads in the nearby foothills & mountains. Guess which one leaves me with a bigger smile on my face...

    One cool thing about a Z is that you can soup it up with factory Datsun/Nissan parts, much like a Chevy. Replace the L24 with an L28, swap in a 5-speed, and for quicker launches swap in a 3.90 or 4.11 diffy.
    Kenny P.

    '73 240Z
    '82 ZX L28
    '82 ZX 5-speed
    Round top SU's
    Tokico HP struts
    Tokico Springs
    Urethane bushings

    my gallery

  26. #26
    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7115
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Posts
    1,221

    Default

    Now you have a goal, you stated you had an L24, what head, are you using the smog pump, any aftermarket exhaust?

    This engine will meet your goals, you might want to stiffen the diff mount in back, but the car for the most part can handle a 50hp gain. I recommend getting it running like a top first, and answering the questions above first so we can have an idea on what we are helping with.

  27. #27
    Registered User Co0kieduster's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-23084
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    New Bern, NC
    Age
    37
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Sorry I haven't posted in a while. I was in the process of taking care of all the safety issues with the car before doing any modifications. I was assuming all the standard stuff wouldn't take long, but when I was at the tire shop trying to figure out where my shimmy and rear wheel noise was coming from (after a set of new tires) I found out that the rear end is pretty jacked up. Camber, toe and the right wheel is shifted forward.

    So everything is being put on hold until I can figure out what i've gotten myself into....I guess you never know with these old cars. Just from looking at the car everything "appears" straight all the seems line up no visible cracks in the body, all the wheels are perfectly centered in the wheel wells. Should have brought a tape measure with me and measure from hub to hub maybe.

    Anyway the car will be going to the body shop, hopefully next week, to be put on the frame rack and inspected for a bent frame.

    Again, not feeling good about this, I wont drive a car until everything is straight and riding the way it is meant to. Just worried they're going to tell they can't fix it or its going to cost a million dollars.

    This is the first time i've dealt with something like this.

  28. #28
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-19635
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Posts
    2,787

    Default

    Maybe antique cars aren't your sort of thing. You can get pretty impressive power (225 hp) out of a BMW Z3 and look damned good in it. Maintenance is high, but it's a modern and affordable car. Probably a similar total investment.
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  29. #29
    Former frequent poster sblake01's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-3797
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Bernardino, Ca. U.S.A.
    Age
    70
    Posts
    10,574

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Co0kieduster View Post
    Anyway the car will be going to the body shop, hopefully next week, to be put on the frame rack and inspected for a bent frame.
    Can that actually be done on a unibody setup like an S30?
    2004 Ford Ranger EDGE Supercab
    (@Moonpup: This one really is an EDGE!)
    2005 Pontaic GTO
    2010 Mercedes Benz C300 AMG Sportline (Wife's car)
    2014 Kia Rio LX (Wife's daily driver)
    Certified HVAC/MVAC Technician

  30. #30
    Registered User Co0kieduster's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-23084
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    New Bern, NC
    Age
    37
    Posts
    48

    Default

    I'm not sure if the unibody can straightened. I talked to the owner when i went and he didn't act as if i was out of luck if it was bent. I'm hoping its maybe just the rear suspension. Replacing parts sounds more promising.

  31. #31
    Registered User ajmcforester's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7115
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Posts
    1,221

    Default

    You can straiten the carthe question might be cost

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Power Distributon Hardware - share your ideas
    By Travel'n Man in forum Electrical (S30)
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-25-2010, 09:53 PM
  2. 76 280z feul pump and injectors no power
    By rzkas in forum Electrical (S30)
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-19-2010, 10:15 PM
  3. Have you been watching - cheap cars?
    By Carl Beck in forum Open Discussions
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 07-28-2009, 03:12 PM
  4. Coil power?????
    By carguyinok in forum Help Me !!
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 03-11-2009, 05:44 PM
  5. Crank power to Wheel power
    By jezze in forum Open S30 Z Discussions
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 08-13-2006, 06:37 AM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •