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Thread: Fuel rail removal FI L jetronic?

  1. #1
    Registered User deadflo's Avatar
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    Default Fuel rail removal FI L jetronic?

    Hi Guys,
    Is there a good source for finding out how to remove the fuel rail on FI cars?
    I sprung a fuel leak this morning in the 79 as I was leaving for work, luckily I smelled the raw gas, and had a flashlight handy in the pre dawn hours to see gas squirting from the little hose that hooks to one injector.
    I'm guessing it's pretty easy to get that rail off, and replace the hose?
    My memory of the a pic in the service manual seemed like it was pretty simple, but that the instructions in the manual weren't so detailed....

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    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    From what I recall:

    Electrical
    - Unplug EFI connections to fuel rail injectors

    Gas
    - disconnect inlet and outlet fuel lines to the rail

    Vacuum
    - disconnect small vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator (small can between injectors 3&4)

    hardware
    - remove all 12 fasteners securing the 6 fuel injectors to the intake runners
    - remove 2 or 4 fasteners holding fuel rail to intake
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    I had my fuel rail off last year. Not too bad to remove, but getting the FI line from my auto parts store was a real PITA to get back on, even when lubing the lines with windex, etc. Probably a metric vs. imperial measurement issue. I believe the FSM gives specs on how long each line should be so you don't wind up trying to push too much on to each nipple.

    That said, while you're there, might as well replace them all. If one went...more are likely to pop...

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    You should be able to remove the rail, FPR and injectors all as one unit. It's easier to install the injectors first though, then fit the rail to the hose ends in the reverse operation. For me anyway.

    And don't forget the bracket in the middle of the rail that is held by one of the four intake manifold bolts. I think that it has got me every time. When you're bent over the fender to work it's hidden behind the rail and easy to miss. You'll think everything is unbolted and some invisible force is holding the rail on.

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    Zed, if only I would have known that trick last year. It would have been waaaaay easier. I'll just say, if there was a swear jar around that day, it would have been full.

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    Registered User cesar280z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zed head View Post
    you should be able to remove the rail, fpr and injectors all as one unit. It's easier to install the injectors first though, then fit the rail to the hose ends in the reverse operation. For me anyway.

    And don't forget the bracket in the middle of the rail that is held by one of the four intake manifold bolts. I think that it has got me every time. When you're bent over the fender to work it's hidden behind the rail and easy to miss. You'll think everything is unbolted and some invisible force is holding the rail on.

    tell me about it!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zed Head View Post
    You'll think everything is unbolted and some invisible force is holding the rail on.
    Invisible forces are the true test of a mechanic. Upon encountering "invisible forces" do they reach for A) crowbar, B) a FSM, or C) a cellphone (to call their mentor). You want the mechanics in group C.

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    Registered User siteunseen's Avatar
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    Or D) this forum. My favorite.

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    deadflo,

    Blue described the basic process. I did this about a year ago and took a few pictures if you'd be interested.
    1976 280Z
    HLS30288273

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    HS130-150591 4/79 zbane's Avatar
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    As an added thought (though this doesn't qualify as a true "while I'm at it" thing), I'd suggest replacing all the bolts that hold the injectors in the head. Several of mine became galled when I removed them (not too badly), but I wish I'd sourced hex head bolts to use. I've seen others have done so, and it just looks better (IMO).
    David
    _____________________________________
    HS130-150591, April, 1979-280zx
    2001 Infiniti I 30

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    Registered User siteunseen's Avatar
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    Nissan Hex screw part #01121-02981. You need 12, my dealer's were $.61 each so $7.32. Half of my old screws were bent from over tightening.

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    That's a good point about the over-tightening. The injector is essentially sitting in a big rubber cushion when it's installed, with the bottom gasket sealing against the intake manifold and the top one insulating against heat and vibration. Tightening the screws doesn't really have any effect on the seal to the manifold, it just puts extra force on the plastic insulator pieces, leading to cracking.

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    Default Lifting injector rail and Hex bolts

    Thanks siteunseen, I have been looking at changing the screws since mine are damage. I lifted the rail with injectors to find a faulty injector. That seemed the easiest way to do it. I did a very simple test and found a clogged injector by cranking the engine with the plugs out. See photo's. I found it easier to replace thee rail with injectors but the leaving the hose clamps on the injectors loose. That gave my more flexability when fitting the injectors.
    Cheers
    Eurodat
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