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Thread: Quarter Window Outer WeatherStrip - MSA

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    Default Quarter Window Outer WeatherStrip - MSA

    So, I bought MSA's full Weatherstrip package for the 240Z. I'm replacing the 1/4 window gaskets and everything has gone smooth so far, except for one thing . . . the outer gasket for the window is WAY TO SHORT. If I were to STREATCH the hell out of it, it might actually fit, but I don't think weatherstrip cement or adhesive will hold it there. Has anyone else noticed this? I am amazed at this! so far, everything else has been fitting with no issues. Anyone have any idea on what is happening? I'll take some pictures today when I get home.
    -1973 240Z
    First car over 20 yrs old ever owned.
    LOVING IT!!

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    Registered User cbuczesk's Avatar
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    I've installed a few of the Precision kits and never had that problem. The only problem I had was getting the screw holes to line up after installing new gaskets.

    Chuck
    East Coast Z Nationals held at the Carlisle Import & Kit Nationals - May 16-18, 2014 Carlisle, PA
    www.carlisleevents.com/events/import
    1969 240Z #390
    1971 Fairlady Z
    1971 240Z parts car
    1972 240Z ITS race car
    1972 240Z turbo
    1974 260Z turbo
    1975 280Z my first car
    1978 620 King Cab

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    I think you a talking about INNER seal. I had the same problem, but just used a little soapy water and it was much easier. I have the glass seated correctly in the inner seal, along with the screw holes that hold the actual frame together. But, I'm talking about the OUTER gasket that goes around the quarter window frame that presses against the body of the Z.
    -1973 240Z
    First car over 20 yrs old ever owned.
    LOVING IT!!

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    Registered User cbuczesk's Avatar
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    I was talking about the outer seal. The inner can be tricky but I've had a lot more trouble with the outer seal. I get to try that again in a couple months when I finish my new race car. If I get a chance I'll measure the outer seals that I have tonight.

    Chuck
    East Coast Z Nationals held at the Carlisle Import & Kit Nationals - May 16-18, 2014 Carlisle, PA
    www.carlisleevents.com/events/import
    1969 240Z #390
    1971 Fairlady Z
    1971 240Z parts car
    1972 240Z ITS race car
    1972 240Z turbo
    1974 260Z turbo
    1975 280Z my first car
    1978 620 King Cab

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    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
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    Post some pics. Otherwise you're expecting everyone to presume that you've assumed which weatherstrip goes where. You may be spot on, but one of the weatherstrips being ~short~ in one of their kits is totally unheard of. After years of doing this, that they got one short, as opposed to your having misconstrued the fit or misidentified it's use... which one would you think is more likely.

    I'm not saying that they've never made a mistake, just that the odds aren't there.

    FWIW
    E
    71 240 920 Gold
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    nope, you were right E. :-( I went back and found that I i got them mixed up. It was my fault, I should have called it a night instead of getting upset and trying and trying to get it to fit. Went and looked the next day and BAM. Found the right part. This one is actually a little long now (like an extra 0.5 - 1.0" so I'll be trimming it up.
    -1973 240Z
    First car over 20 yrs old ever owned.
    LOVING IT!!

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    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
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    And Thank You for understanding. I wasn't trying to place the blame on you as much as saying..."Do you really think so?".

    Glad you got it resolved.

    E

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    E, thanks for the helpful words. I really do appreciate it.

    I would also REALLY appreciate it if you could give me some help with installing the quarter window. I had one hell of a time getting the gasket to stay in place and now I can't for the life of me, figure out why I can't get them to go back in. I tried installing them without the gasket, and they fit perfectly. Any tips on getting them back in place? They're holding me up from moving forward with the rest of the door gasket.

    Do I even have it on right?

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    Last edited by New-to-240z; 02-05-2013 at 08:47 PM.
    -1973 240Z
    First car over 20 yrs old ever owned.
    LOVING IT!!

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    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
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    You have it on right. The short leg goes towards the inside of the car.

    As far as installation, make sure you have the proper screws that screw into the tabs on the window frame, if necessary run a thread chaser to ensure that you're not fighting a bit of old rust/corrosion trying to get the screw started or tightened.

    Next, use a lubricant all the way around the gasket and opening. I personally prefer food grade silicone, but then I have a neighbor who works / services food equipment. Dishwashing detergent can dry out if you take too long, but if you water it down it can stay slippery for a good long while. I wouldn't use an oil nor grease, they'll attack your gasket / paint.

    Now comes the fun. Ideally you should have a friend help you hold and press on the FRAME of the glass (not the glass) and press not only on the frame IN towards the interior, but also on the front part of the frame towards the BACK of the vehicle (insert the wedge so to speak). When he gets it into place, you should be ab le to use one hand to push the rearmost apex of the window IN so that you can get the screw started. Start the screw and only go two or three turns, don't tighten it at this point. All you want to do is get it started.

    Once the rear most is started, address the next one, whether above or below and do the same.... just get the screw started.

    Once you have all the screws/washers started, then start tightening down EVENLY and keep an eye on the whole assembly. You do NOT want to snap a screw nor strip it.

    The reason you're having a hard time is that you're dealing with new rubber. If it were going on easily, it wouldn't be making a good seal.

    Hope this helps
    E
    71 240 920 Gold
    72 240 Orange
    73 240 Red
    67 1600 Sports Roadster Spicy Orange Mica
    68 2000 Sports Roadster Red

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    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    All of the above that EScanlon says !!!!

    and here is a nice trick to add:

    I used longer new screws (actually bolts with same threads) to pull the window in from farther out. Once the 4 bolts have it pulled in, you can change them out with the original screws one at a time.

    You can do it in several steps if you want with very long, then medium, then short bolts.

    The long bolts make alignment much easier than with the tiny original screws



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    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue View Post
    All of the above that EScanlon says !!!!

    and here is a nice trick to add:

    I used longer new screws (actually bolts with same threads) to pull the window in from farther out. Once the 4 bolts have it pulled in, you can change them out with the original screws one at a time.

    You can do it in several steps if you want with very long, then medium, then short bolts.

    The long bolts make alignment much easier than with the tiny original screws
    Now that is a good idea!! I'll try that out next. I'll grab some dishwasher soap, a spray bottle, and go to town on them. As a side note, I just had the car painted about 3 weeks ago. Do I have to worry about the dishwasher soap? Should I bite the bullet and get some food grade silicone?

    Would this work . . ?

    Petrol-Gel Lubricant, 4 oz Tube
    Last edited by New-to-240z; 02-06-2013 at 08:22 AM.
    -1973 240Z
    First car over 20 yrs old ever owned.
    LOVING IT!!

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    Water may be fine.

    I used soapy water in a spray bottle when I did this... but the new paint had cured for 8 months.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    Don't underestimate the flexability afforded with pre-heated rubber and the lubrication properties of products designed for fitting rubber without damaging paint. For several years I used a product called "Isopar" that worked great, that was from the Mopar Parts Dept. There are several others available. Get a free sample from the link below of a similar product.

    McLube : Rubber Assembly Lubricants

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer View Post
    Don't underestimate the flexability afforded with pre-heated rubber and the lubrication properties of products designed for fitting rubber without damaging paint. For several years I used a product called "Isopar" that worked great, that was from the Mopar Parts Dept. There are several others available. Get a free sample from the link below of a similar product.

    McLube : Rubber Assembly Lubricants
    Hey geezer! Looked at that site and they only have it in gallons (I really only need it for this one thing. I also searched the net for Isopar, but found nothing related to mopar parts. I can grab that food grade silicon from amazon, but I'm afraid that it might cause damage to the new paint. I just spent an arm and a leg getting it painted, I want to be sure it doesn't damage it.

    But, I was also wondering . . . what would be a good way to heat up the rubber? Maybe putting it in the oven at the lowest temp possible? Or using a hair dryer on it for a few minutes?
    -1973 240Z
    First car over 20 yrs old ever owned.
    LOVING IT!!

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    I am pointing out that there are several products available for the purpose of lubricating and fitting rubber. That particular one I linked to is offering free samples. I wasn't recommending you should buy a gallon. Its been several years since I've used Isopar and referred to it as an example of one I've used and how well it performed. Don't know if you can still get it or if it is another product deemed to be too hazardous for anything but industrial use.
    We actually used steam boxes (hot water heat), but carefully using a heat gun, gradually heating the rubber will make it very flexable, easily manipulated and being so dense, rubber holds the heat longer than you would think giving you time to work with it before it cools.

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer View Post
    I am pointing out that there are several products available for the purpose of lubricating and fitting rubber. That particular one I linked to is offering free samples. I wasn't recommending you should buy a gallon. Its been several years since I've used Isopar and referred to it as an example of one I've used and how well it performed. Don't know if you can still get it or if it is another product deemed to be too hazardous for anything but industrial use.
    We actually used steam boxes (hot water heat), but carefully using a heat gun, gradually heating the rubber will make it very flexable, easily manipulated and being so dense, rubber holds the heat longer than you would think giving you time to work with it before it cools.
    Thank you geezer. I'll see what kind of sample they are willing to give. I'll ask if the lubricant has any affect on clear coats/paint.
    -1973 240Z
    First car over 20 yrs old ever owned.
    LOVING IT!!

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