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Thread: 280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.

  1. #101
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    CG,

    Thanks for the great writeup/cover of your rebuild. Rebuilds take a ton of time, and the fact that you took extra time to document for us is appreciated. I wish I would have seen the thread earlier and followed along.

    Lenny
    77 280z - test vehicle
    HellFire L28 digital ECU replacement janitor.

  2. #102
    Registered User CG240Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by superlen View Post
    CG,

    Thanks for the great writeup/cover of your rebuild. Rebuilds take a ton of time, and the fact that you took extra time to document for us is appreciated. I wish I would have seen the thread earlier and followed along.

    Lenny
    Thanks! I enjoy sharing the restoration experience with others. There is still a lot to be done, so keep following along! I'm still looking for a place to live, so until then work has taking a temporary break.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  3. #103
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    Live? You have a Z Car...look at all that room back there. You might have to work a bit to squeeze a sofa in though.

    Len
    77 280z - test vehicle
    HellFire L28 digital ECU replacement janitor.

  4. #104
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    Figured I'd give my thread an update. Hopefully close on my house within the next 2 weeks. It has a decent sized 2.5 car garage, which isn't very common in San Diego. Can't wait to get the garage setup and the Datsun unloaded. I'm ready to hit the open road in it.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  5. #105
    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    zcar convention in SD this year...good move!
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue View Post
    zcar convention in SD this year...good move!
    any details on this? When and Where?
    '73 240z Hack Job..

  7. #107
    Registered User CG240Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpascual1986 View Post
    any details on this? When and Where?
    http://www.zccazconvention.com/conventions/2014/
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  8. #108
    Registered User CG240Z's Avatar
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    Many moons later I'm settled into the new house and the Datsun has it's new garage. Got to do some tinkering on her today trying to get the engine to run smoothly. I did a valve adjustment and she's still back firing and will barely idle, if any. My next thought is too check the AFM to see if it's calibrated correctly and go over the vacuum hoses again. At least she looks good in the garage regardless of if I can drive her.

    Just pretend the Ford Racing flag says Datsun Racing.

     photo E281F1C6-ED9E-4566-AEA3-3EDE5AFF8D30.jpg
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  9. #109
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    Check your cam lobes (a flat one will cause an intake backfire - check lubrication while you're in there), valve lash (a loose one is like a flat cam lobe), and fuel pressure (lean mixture cause backfires). Those things are always good to do in general.
    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

  10. #110
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    If its lean mixture, you can check the AFM circuits, throttle switch and the temp sensor. They are good sources for backfiring when they go bad. The test you can do with a multimeter and are all described in the 280Z fuel injection bible. In the Test#1 section.
    If it was running well before you move, good chance its a dirty contact or something along that line.

    Here is a link to a method to calibrate the AFM spring. Unless someone has played with it, I don't think that is causing your problem. Springs get weaker over time which means the ECU will give more fuel. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/a...ion/index.html

    Chas

    Edit: Dam that car looks good. Impressive job in such a short time. Hats of to you.
    Ford racing: shame on you
    Last edited by EuroDat; 04-06-2014 at 01:03 AM.
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  11. #111
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    I believe the engine is running rich, not lean. I haven't pulled a plug to confirm, but I can smell the gas while the engine is running. The car didn't run right before the move, it's been backfiring since it's first start.

    It's a new cam so I shouldn't have any flat spots. But it just hit me, I'm running stock lash caps, I wonder if the cam calls for a different lash cap. I am going to call the company I bought it from this week and find out and also double check on the valve clearances with them. I still need to double check the AFM, just didn't have the energy to pull it out today.

    Once I get the engine running, I need to get my clutch issues figured out. After that she's ready to hit the open road for her first test run.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  12. #112
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    Hope its not your cam.
    If its running rich, it could be the spring tension in the AFM. I have seen a "performance" tip where they release a vit of the spring tension to add more fuel. If someone has tempered with it like that, it could be the cause. A lot of the ECU drift problems gennerally cause lean running, but the spring is one of the exceptions.
    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  13. #113
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    Working on this bad guy tonight. Going over the tech tips from Atlantic Z and EFI manual to try to figure out if this thing is calibrated or not. I'm hoping this is the key to get the engine running better.


     photo F6065827-574E-453C-BAE5-94149AB06148.jpg
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  14. #114
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    Did you install a stock cam?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rcb280z View Post
    Did you install a stock cam?
    Nope, I still have the mild performance cam in. Hopefully that's not the root of the problems. I'd like to get the AFM cleared before I go swapping cams. I'm waiting on Lenny's new ecu to come out, I'll put that in too to help compensate for the cam.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    I calibrated my AFM using the guide on the Alanticz website. It was easy to do, but my engine ran really lean afterwards. Its worth noting that my spring was adjusted to about 120gr. before I started. There was also signs that the lock screw was previously in another position on the wheel, so a PO was playing with it in the past. He may have released the tension to give him more "performance" or try to compensate for ECU drift?

    I will have to lookup the weights, but from memory halfway at 135gr worked best for me. The method I used was to remove the AFM cover drive it and adjust the spring small amouts and drive, adjust, drive, adjust. I got so handy at it that I didn't stop the engine to do the adjustments.

    After that I removed the AFM and checked the spring at 135gram mid position. Im not saying that 135gr is better, we are comparing systems that are approaching 40 years. I have no idea what the tension was on a new AFM.
    My Z also has other variables effecting this, one being the tempurature sensor resistor pod and another the typical ECU's drift towards lean running. My calibration could be compensating for that as well.

    I think I have a video of it somewhere. Ill try to upload it latter.
    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  17. #117
    Lance Corporal of Marines TheCrazySwede's Avatar
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    Does your AFM have the little adjustment screws on the side? Helps to tune it a bit.
    What size lash pads are you using? .175"+ is a bit too thick even for a mild cam. I assume you're at .160"?

    Have you measured your fuel pressure? See what your pressure is like. You should be able to place a gauge right between the fuel filter and the rail.

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by EuroDat View Post
    I calibrated my AFM using the guide on the Alanticz website. It was easy to do, but my engine ran really lean afterwards. Its worth noting that my spring was adjusted to about 120gr. before I started. There was also signs that the lock screw was previously in another position on the wheel, so a PO was playing with it in the past. He may have released the tension to give him more "performance" or try to compensate for ECU drift?

    I will have to lookup the weights, but from memory halfway at 135gr worked best for me. The method I used was to remove the AFM cover drive it and adjust the spring small amouts and drive, adjust, drive, adjust. I got so handy at it that I didn't stop the engine to do the adjustments.

    After that I removed the AFM and checked the spring at 135gram mid position. Im not saying that 135gr is better, we are comparing systems that are approaching 40 years. I have no idea what the tension was on a new AFM.
    My Z also has other variables effecting this, one being the tempurature sensor resistor pod and another the typical ECU's drift towards lean running. My calibration could be compensating for that as well.

    I think I have a video of it somewhere. Ill try to upload it latter.
    Chas
    I'm no electrical guy. But my common sense say don't mess with the factory set up from the AFM. I would replace the AFM if it was faulty.
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

    Jay Leno : You know one week after the Americans have walked on the moon, the Japanese introduced this sports car, and…if you’re a car guy pretty equal. I mean walking on the moon was pretty good, but how many times you’d gonna walk on the moon? But here was an affordable sports car that had real performance and looked like it cost a lot more than it did.

  19. #119
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    Could be timing especially if you are running a performance cam.

    As far as the AFM goes, I still have my original one and have adjusted it numerous times. Just study all the thread on this site regarding it and it should make you feel more comfortable with it.
    Last edited by rcb280z; 04-19-2014 at 07:59 AM.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheCrazySwede View Post
    Does your AFM have the little adjustment screws on the side? Helps to tune it a bit.
    What size lash pads are you using? .175"+ is a bit too thick even for a mild cam. I assume you're at .160"?

    Have you measured your fuel pressure? See what your pressure is like. You should be able to place a gauge right between the fuel filter and the rail.
    I did check the lash pads, thinking maybe that was it. I called Web Cam where I bought it from and asked about it. They said as long as I can get .008 and .010 my lash pads are fine. Tight tolerances, but that's what it calls for.

    Good idea on fuel pressure, I'll need to pick up a gauge.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcb280z View Post
    Could be timing especially if you are running a performance cam.

    As far as the AFM goes, I still have my original one and have adjusted it numerous times. Just study all the thread on this site regarding it and it should make you feel more comfortable with it.


    I'll check the timing. I've set it before with a timing light, but you know how that goes. It could have shifted.

    Thanks for all the ideas, I have lots of avenues to explore.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    Loosen the lock screw and rotate the dizzy back and forth and see if it changes the way it idles and go from there. For some reason I think a buddy had to retard his timing because of the performance cam. It ran better but not good because he didnt do anything else to the fuel system. He thought a performance cam was going to give him lots of power on a "stock EFI" and it didn't.

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    Lance Corporal of Marines TheCrazySwede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CG240Z View Post
    I did check the lash pads, thinking maybe that was it. I called Web Cam where I bought it from and asked about it. They said as long as I can get .008 and .010 my lash pads are fine. Tight tolerances, but that's what it calls for.

    Good idea on fuel pressure, I'll need to pick up a gauge.
    If that is the case, then I suppose you're good on that end!
    Let us know how your pressure is like. Should be around 36-38psi if I remember correctly. It should rise to 40-42psi when turned off if your pump and regulator are working properly...

  24. #124
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    The maximum "regulated" pressure is 36psig. My car runs at about 40psi which is a bit high. Normal is 36-38psi like TheCrazySwede just mentioned.
    See attachment for the results of my test. I didn't think of doing a flow test under normal operating pressure which would of made it complete.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  25. #125
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    I ordered a fuel pressure gauge, should be here by Wednesday. I put a new fuel pump in the car, but it's just an Autozone special, I'm curious to see what it's doing.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  26. #126
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    Awesome picture Eurodat.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  27. #127
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    Adjusted the AFM by using the beer can method on the Atlantic Z website, it was a little off, so I adjusted it. Put the AFM back in and cranked the motor. Still popping out the exhaust, running rough, and not idling.

    I left the cover off and played with the rotating mass as the engine ran, doing this I can get the engine to idle. So maybe I didn't adjust it enough? I'll look into that some more. At one point I was adjusting the timing and messing with the AFM to see if I could get it to run any better. Not much success.

    I might have stumbled across something too. I'm not sure I'm running on all cylinders. I pulled the fuel injector harness on 6th plug and the engine didn't change much. I then pulled the plug with the fuel injection connected and I didn't notice a change. It's getting spark, I could see it arch when I put it close to the plug. This might be another avenue to look further into.

    Hanging the can, you can't tell in the picture, but the can is hanging.
     photo C1CD5374-9970-4495-B2E0-59BDBD759133.jpg

     photo C910DDFF-06FA-46C9-8A42-CF912C2A6D26.jpg
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  28. #128
    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    Sounds like a dirty or failed injector or something upstream from it, try and connect the #5 INJECTOR to the #6 CONNECTOR and the #6 INJECTOR to the #5 CONNECTOR to see if the problem moves to 5.

    Cleaning all electrical connections in the EFI system is a good maintenance item.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    http://ZSportCanada.com


  29. #129
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    Did you adjust the spring to give it more tension? Mine was about 125grams + the weight of the can. There was evidence of tempering in mine. You could see an indent in the whell where the screw first was and the sealant used on the cover wasn't original. I believe a past owner was compensating for ECU drift or tried to gain performance by richening the mixture.
    You may need to do the "tempurature sensor resistor pod mod" to fine tune it. Its easy to do. I first used a 20k pod, but it was hard to fine tune. Mine is adjusted to about 1250ohm, but my AFM is probably not at the right tension. It now has a 5K pod.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Im having some problems with mine since I had a water in the fuel a couple of weeks ago. The PO did a lot of work, but the quality is in some places now showing. After playing with the injectors, it started missing badly and I found this.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Its still not right and now stutters under load or acceleration. Don't have time to check it now, but once easter has past Ill start investigating.
    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  30. #130
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    I'm not sure you did the calibration correctly... I think you have to use a Canadian beer.

    Seriously though, I wish I could tell if my AFM has been messed with. I've looked it over from every angle, and even with magnification, I can't tell for sure. I've got no glue blobs or marks that would indicate one way or the other. My cover had been popped by a previous owner, but I can't tell for sure what (if anything) he did in there.

  31. #131
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    Yer, Not sure what a Canadian beer can weight is, but my alcohol free club soda with a hook for the string comes in at 15grams. Probably should of used a Heiniken beer can

    When I adjusted the spring to 148grams plus can I couldn't fine tune with the Thermo pod resistor. Thats way I reduced the weight back to 135gr plus can. The temperature sensor was reading 2820ohms at 16degC. which is close to the FSM spec.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    PS: I clamped the AFM mounting bracket in the bench vice. Didn't like the chances, and my luck would be a 95% chance, of the AFM free falling to the floor.

    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  32. #132
    Registered User CG240Z's Avatar
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    Still waiting on my fuel pressure gauge to come in. I ran a compression test on it today just to cross it off the list. All good. I might have stumbled across something. Plugs 1-4 were fouled, 5&6 were clean. I know the engine is running rich so that explains the foulness. But it looks like 5/6 are getting fuel, they are getting spark, but since they were not fouled this leads me to believe those cylinders aren't getting fuel. I clean the contacts on the injectors, that didn't seem to do anything.

    Any suggestions on my next course action? Is there a way to test the individual injectors, or should I just buy 2 new ones? Thanks guys!


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     photo C8F370DF-DFC2-4E41-86AC-4605B0E69C7D.jpg
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  33. #133
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    You can remove the connector one by one with the engine running. You should notice the revs drop per cylinder when you disconect it.

    Another alternative is to lift the fuel rail with injectors. Do a run test with the spark plugs out and crank is on the starter for a short period and see what the injectors do.
    I did that two years back to find two faulty (nr. 3 and 4) injectors.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  34. #134
    Registered User CG240Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EuroDat View Post
    You can remove the connector one by one with the engine running. You should notice the revs drop per cylinder when you disconect it.

    Another alternative is to lift the fuel rail with injectors. Do a run test with the spark plugs out and crank is on the starter for a short period and see what the injectors do.
    I did that two years back to find two faulty (nr. 3 and 4) injectors.

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    Chas
    I just put 12 volts to the two suspected injectors, I can hear them clicking. Next will be to lift fuel rail and test crank it like you said. I might just end up ordering all new injectors since these could be original injectors and I know for a fact the car was sitting for 18 years with fuel in it.

    I ordered new quick connect injector plugs since mine are in rough shape and cracked. I'm also thinking about ordering the Pallnet fuel injection rail system since I'll have everything pulled apart. I like the cleaner look of a simply fuel rail. Just keep throwing money at it until it runs right?? haha
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

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    back-flowing injectors helps clean them.
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    I got the two bad injectors flowing the same as the other four by reverse flushing, like Blue mentioned.

    It was a crude simple set-up, but it did the job: 70cm garden hose fitted to the injector tip with a hose clamp, fitting on the other end for the air compressor, 9volt battery & connector. Continuous 12volts is not good for the injector coil and they open and close good with 9volts.
    Filled the hose with a fuel and injector cleaner mix and blow it through with 1.5bar compressed air. Did that 3 or 4 times and they all cleaned up a lot. Its not perfect, but it got them all producing within 90% of each other back on the fuel rail.

    If you are thinking of buying new injectors, now would probably be the time to do it. That would eliminate them as a cause and like you said; after 18 years of sitting with old fuel I suspect they will be a like mine were.

    Chas
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    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    There's plenty of shops that clean fuel injectors. I've searched a bit on the internet and there are new replacement fuel injectors for the 280zx for sale aswell.
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

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    Got my new fuel rail in, simply design, I like it. I started putting it together, but one of the injectors Rock Auto sent me is different so they are sending me a new one. I also noticed that with the new injector tip length is a bit shorter. Is this going to cause any problems? Picture below for reference.

    New injector on left, old on right. Notice the differences in tip lengths.
     photo 63748141-0B89-4598-AA5A-06100CE68C83.jpg


    The new fuel rail. Tomorrow I am going to solder the new quick release injector clips onto the harness. Once I get the 6th injector, I'll be good to install this. Already have the ZX FPR. Will also need to buy some more injector hose.
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    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

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    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    Those look the FJ3 or FJ707 injectors. They have a different nozzle shape but they all shoot a very narrow stream, I think. They're not a problem for the others that use them. The intake vacuum sealing area is that the bottom of the metal body, where you'll be putting the small o-shaped gaskets, and it's the same distance from the metal clamp the screws go through.

    Is that a pallnet rail?
    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

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    CG240Z: Looks like great work. On the fuel rail, where did you get the pressure gauge? What are you using for the Fuel Pressure Regulator? Do you have it installed yet? Pic Please....Thanks.
    Andrew (ZCurves)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zed Head View Post
    Those look the FJ3 or FJ707 injectors. They have a different nozzle shape but they all shoot a very narrow stream, I think. They're not a problem for the others that use them. The intake vacuum sealing area is that the bottom of the metal body, where you'll be putting the small o-shaped gaskets, and it's the same distance from the metal clamp the screws go through.

    Is that a pallnet rail?
    Good eye on both. They are FJ3 injectors and Pallnet rail. Pretty simple rail. For the price, it was just easier for me to cut him a check, then buy a section of fuel injector rail and try to measure and drill out all the holes myself. It's a simple design and I hope it works out well.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZCurves View Post
    CG240Z: Looks like great work. On the fuel rail, where did you get the pressure gauge? What are you using for the Fuel Pressure Regulator? Do you have it installed yet? Pic Please....Thanks.

    Fuel pressure gauge is an universal one from Summit. Fuel Pressure Regulator is from a 280zx, haven't looked for a place to install it. Also waiting on my 6th injector before I install the rail. Current progress is as you see, the rail sitting on my bench. I'll definitely take pictures when I make more progress.

    Also I see you're from spring. I lived in Beaumont, TX from 05-09.
    Last edited by CG240Z; 05-06-2014 at 04:10 PM. Reason: Addes quotes
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    Thanks for the information, I already have the FJ3's that I was just going to install in the stock manner, but after seeing all of this work I believe that I will get moving on this. I'll look forward to the pics. If you're ever in town again, maybe we can have a Shiner Bock!
    Andrew (ZCurves)
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    I have read this entire thread in one sitting and once again am thinking of restoring my 1978 280Z. I am the original owner. I have lived in San Diego since 1979. One thing that really bothers me is the smog testing every two years. The car passes but California toughens up the emissions every time I take it in. Reading your posts has me thinking about a lot of issues my old car may have: cracked vacuum lines, clogged injectors, faulty AFM, poor fuel pressure, etc. The car barely cranks in cold or rainy weather and when it does it acts likes there is no fuel getting to it and back fires (sounds like someone hitting the engine with a hammer?) if you touch the gas. Once it warms up, it's like its old self. I put 244,000 miles on the original engine and a Japanese rebuilt long block now has 65,000 miles on it. Anyhow, have you registered your Z with its modified cams, headers, etc in California yet? Did you run into any issues? Shoot me a PM if you want to get together sometime and talk Z's, motorcycles and have some craft brews.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dclarkfs1@yahoo.com View Post
    Shoot me a PM if you want to get together sometime and talk Z's, motorcycles and have some craft brews.
    Wow. I sure do!

    But I'm near Philadelphia...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dclarkfs1@yahoo.com View Post
    I have read this entire thread in one sitting and once again am thinking of restoring my 1978 280Z. I am the original owner. I have lived in San Diego since 1979. One thing that really bothers me is the smog testing every two years. The car passes but California toughens up the emissions every time I take it in. Reading your posts has me thinking about a lot of issues my old car may have: cracked vacuum lines, clogged injectors, faulty AFM, poor fuel pressure, etc. The car barely cranks in cold or rainy weather and when it does it acts likes there is no fuel getting to it and back fires (sounds like someone hitting the engine with a hammer?) if you touch the gas. Once it warms up, it's like its old self. I put 244,000 miles on the original engine and a Japanese rebuilt long block now has 65,000 miles on it. Anyhow, have you registered your Z with its modified cams, headers, etc in California yet? Did you run into any issues? Shoot me a PM if you want to get together sometime and talk Z's, motorcycles and have some craft brews.
    You will NOT be able to smog in most counties in CA if you alter appearance (engine) and performance of any vehicle 1976 and newer. I have a K&N air filter, exhaust header with egr port, and aftermarket exhaust and that is all I can get away with as far as mods go. Anyone with a cam in a 76 and newer Z car will have problems with passing smog. I have never seen a 280 pass with an aftermarket cam. UNLESS its done illegally. It is hard enough to pass smog with the stock set up anyway. Everything has to be in nearly perfect running order. CA has some of the more stringent smog laws out there. I have to make a couple adjustments, which CA frowns on, just to get mine to pass. CA will close down a shop if it is proven to be guilty of "adjustments" to make a car pass. That is why I had to learn how to do it myself. Dont get me wrong here. They are allowed to "fix" your car but it cant be smogged the same day after Failing. There are lots of restrictions. This is how it happens where I live. Maybe a little different in different counties but close to the same. Good luck.
    Last edited by rcb280z; 05-10-2014 at 01:38 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dclarkfs1@yahoo.com View Post
    I have read this entire thread in one sitting and once again am thinking of restoring my 1978 280Z. I am the original owner. I have lived in San Diego since 1979. One thing that really bothers me is the smog testing every two years. The car passes but California toughens up the emissions every time I take it in. Reading your posts has me thinking about a lot of issues my old car may have: cracked vacuum lines, clogged injectors, faulty AFM, poor fuel pressure, etc. The car barely cranks in cold or rainy weather and when it does it acts likes there is no fuel getting to it and back fires (sounds like someone hitting the engine with a hammer?) if you touch the gas. Once it warms up, it's like its old self. I put 244,000 miles on the original engine and a Japanese rebuilt long block now has 65,000 miles on it. Anyhow, have you registered your Z with its modified cams, headers, etc in California yet? Did you run into any issues? Shoot me a PM if you want to get together sometime and talk Z's, motorcycles and have some craft brews.

    Thanks for reading my thread. It gives me enjoyment that others get enjoyment out of it. Once I get it running I'll have to cruise by your place and check out your original Z, try to get it back on the road. This car has been a lot of work and I can't wait to drive it so I can fully enjoy it.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    Also, as far as smog, this car is not CA legal, nor do I ever plan on making it. I have the military ID in my wallet and I don't ever plan on putting California plates on this car. A very nice perk of the job, because none of my vehicles would pass.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    Getting the fuel rail installed and hooked up. Simply and clean design, I like it. I soldered all new quick release injector clips onto my harness. Now I know I'm getting a good connection and they are easy to pop on and off.

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    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    looks great - can you read the fp gauge from the drivers seat with it angled off to the right side?
    i'm going to be doing a similar setup and have been wondering about that.
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

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    Quote Originally Posted by rossiz View Post
    looks great - can you read the fp gauge from the drivers seat with it angled off to the right side?
    i'm going to be doing a similar setup and have been wondering about that.
    Unfortunately I can't, I had to stand over top of the engine to see it.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    So here's where I'm at guys, I need your help. Got the fuel rail put together, good pressure, new injectors, reset the timing to 10 degrees. Few weeks ago I adjusted the valves to the cam's specs, and I adjusted the afm spring. Soldered new quick release connectors to anything with a fuel injector plug, i.e. fuel injectors, thermotime switch, etc. The car is still popping out the exhaust and will won't idle without some help with the throttle. I've also backyard adjusted the timing just by rotating the distributor while the engine is running. I've also messed around with the AFM spring weight while it's running, both with no results. So here is a video of what I'm talking about, not the best since I filmed it at night, but you can hear what I'm saying. I'm open to all ideas.

    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    Also what vacuum hose is suppose to go to the end of this? It looks like it helps with idle. I don't think this is stopping my engine from running right, but it can't be helping either.

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    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    sure sounds like timing...

    i learned from Blue that the dashpot stays like that, open to the air - it's just to provide a "soft landing" to the throttle when it closes quickly. i had (mistakenly) put a vacuum hose to mine, rendering it useless. he saved me from myself on that one.
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

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    Yea mine didnt have a vacuum line on it when it was running.

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    ok good, that's one thing to check off the list.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    Update on the engine: Went through the FI manual and checked all my continuities and impedances, every thing checked out ok there. Brought the engine to TDC compression on #1 and found the distributor was a bit off. Dropped the oil pump and pulled the distributor. Moved it a couple teeth over and got that lined up. Also found I had my wires running to the distro cap one plug off, fixed that. Put everything back together and now it won't start! So it ran when the timing was off, but not that it's right it won't? I'm kind of clueless right now. I checked all my spark plugs and laid the plugs on top of the valve cover and watched them go through the firing order while the engine was turning over. Everything looks good. Still no fire. Engine needs spark, fuel, and air to run. I'm getting all these. Not sure what to do next.


    Also, does anyone know where these two wires go? They are both blue, but have different connections on them, so I don't think they go together. I know they are hot when the cars on, accidentally grounded one and it sparked. It's in the wire harness next to the coil. Thanks guys.


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    Pictures of the plugs laid on top.

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    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    She's alive! Of course she needs some fine tuning, but she's idling and revving like a champ! Replaced the cap, coil, and rotor button. But the key was my timing was off, which I figured, but didn't know why. I swore up and down I was on TDC compression, I pulled the valve cover and watched and the cam, and saw both the valves not being engaged. Anyways, Dad told me to stick my finger over the hole and when it blows out air, it's compression, regardless of what the cam is doing. Long story short, I was 180 out. What a rookie move on my part! But moving on! The cam sounds awesome and she's sounding great. Next up is getting the clutch working properly, then time for some open road!

    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    Awesome! Sounds great!

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    glad you got it sorted!

    i had a similar problem on a '68 firebird w/ohc 6 - replaced the timing belt and had all the timing marks lined up, but no love and horrible backfires. turned out the original belt had stretched so much that the PO had moved the plug wires 1 spot off in order to get it "close" to timed - so when i put on a new belt it was way off. i went over it again and again and was SURE i had it right (i hadn't touched the distributor) and my very wise uncle took one listen and told me to move the plugs around the cap - bingo, perfect.
    who knew...
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

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    Good to hear you got it sorted out. Sounds great on the vid.
    Chas
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    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    Watch your oil pressure with the low RPM. It sounds cool but these engines will eat a camshaft, especially the aftermarket ones.
    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zed Head View Post
    Watch your oil pressure with the low RPM. It sounds cool but these engines will eat a camshaft, especially the aftermarket ones.
    Good to know, I definitely will.
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    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    You might want to change to the high volume oil pump from the 280ZX turbo. Its a bolt-in upgrade and will help maintain pressure at idle.
    Chas
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    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    Quote Originally Posted by EuroDat View Post
    You might want to change to the high volume oil pump from the 280ZX turbo. Its a bolt-in upgrade and will help maintain pressure at idle.
    I will keep that in mind. Here's a pic of my gauges at idle. I'm happy with this oil pressure at idle. How the pressure is when under load is unknown at this point, but I will keep a close eye on it. Alternator is charging the crap out of the battery, battery could be low from sitting and staying connected to the car.

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    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    Wow that gauge seems high, is it a stock oil pressure sensor at the other end? Most gauges show only ~ 1/4 at idle and 1/2 to 3/4 at WOT.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
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  67. #167
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    You can use a similar gauge to the one in the fuel system to get an idea what the pressure really is. Or remove the sender and test it with a air and see if the gauge is moving accordingly.
    The gauges in the dash are not all that accurate and the oil pressure indicates 0 to 90 and no makings between.

    I agree with Blue, it seems high for idle.
    Chas
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    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  68. #168
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    As far as I know it's the stock sensor. I'll take a closer look at it, I might have another oil pressure gauge laying around the garage that I can temporarily hook up to to get another read of the pressure.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  69. #169
    Registered User mgood's Avatar
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    Just saw you picture from a week ago, here is a picture of my stock 76 280 in that area.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	71662 Hope this helps.
    Michael 11/75 - 76-280 - HLS30-281,114
    Web site -Click Here and ORIGINAL OWNERS OF THE 280Z (1975-1976 -1977 - 1978 - ONLY) REGISTRATION[

  70. #170
    Registered User CG240Z's Avatar
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    Took advantage of the 3 day weekend and made some more progress on the Z. Got to clutch issue straighten out. The aftermarket rod on the Clutch MC I installed was too short. I extended it about an inch and that magically fixed all my clutch issues. Got to take the Z out for some break in miles. So far so good, the car rides very nice and cruises great at 70. The engine is running lean so I'm going to adjust the AFM to see if I can richen it up.

    My next major project is the headlights. At first only the right on was working. I unplugged the left one, cleaned the ground, re installed it and now neither work! Except the right high beam. I'm getting power at the fuse, so it seems like I have an electrical gremlin somewhere. There's a car show Friday night I'd like to take it to, but only if I can get the headlights working. Right now I'm daylight restricted.

    Here's a video of me pulling it out of the garage for the first time and a few glamour shots I took while breaking it in.



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    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by CG240Z View Post
    The engine is running lean so I'm going to adjust the AFM to see if I can richen it up.
    Many of us have had better luck with a potentiometer on the coolant temperature circuit to add resistance, to fix a lean problem. Messing with the AFM spring changes the slope of the enrichment curve, richer at the bottom not so much at the top, adding potentiometer resistance just moves the whole thing up. Richer everywhere. Plus, if you mount it in the cabin, you can tune on the fly.
    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zed Head View Post
    Many of us have had better luck with a potentiometer on the coolant temperature circuit to add resistance, to fix a lean problem. Messing with the AFM spring changes the slope of the enrichment curve, richer at the bottom not so much at the top, adding potentiometer resistance just moves the whole thing up. Richer everywhere. Plus, if you mount it in the cabin, you can tune on the fly.
    Very interesting. I've seen others reference potentiometers, but didn't exactly know what they were used for. I'm looking at the Atlantic Z site now and reading up on it. I ordered a 1k adjustable potentiometer as he has on the site. It will be here tomorrow. As far as wiring it, I'm a little confused. I get that it wires into the temp sensor, but that's about all I'm understanding. Could you further clarify how to wire it inline with the temp sensor? Thanks!
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    The atlanticz page shows the coolant sensor with both bullet ends disconnected, for demonstration, so is a little confusing. But you only need to break open one connection, and insert the potentiometer in-line. It can be before or after the sensor. All you're doing is adding resistance to the wire that starts at Pin 13 on the ECU and goes to ground. The ECU will think that the engine is colder than it is and add fuel. The sensor's resistance increases as temperature drops. It won't take much, I hope that you got a taper style potentiometer, they have a finer touch on the ends of their adjustment.

    I ran a few feet of wire from the connection on the engine harness and mounted the pot under the driver's side dash. In the engine bay is fine if you don't plan to mess with it much. Make sure it doesn't get too hot, it's probably not designed for engine bay temperatures.

    I added a picture from the Fuel Injection Book, illustrating the circuit and the bullet connections.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

  74. #174
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    I made mine with enough cable to tweak it in the cabin until it seemed right. After that I mounted it along the fuel rail. This pod is a 5k ohm unit I had a 20k ohm, but it was a little course and harder to fine tune.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  75. #175
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    How are you guys determining what size potentiometer to use? Is it a trial and error thing? It seems the bigger you go, the harder it would be to fine tune. I got a 1k, I'm going to install it today and max it out. See if I notice a difference from there.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

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    Start at zero and work up. The pot is actually a good theft-prevention device. Just crank it up and you'll flood the engine. I have a 5K from Radio Shack and I barely use 5 degrees of knob rotation.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

  77. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by CG240Z View Post
    Took advantage of the 3 day weekend and made some more progress on the Z. Got to clutch issue straighten out. The aftermarket rod on the Clutch MC I installed was too short. I extended it about an inch and that magically fixed all my clutch issues. Got to take the Z out for some break in miles. So far so good, the car rides very nice and cruises great at 70. The engine is running lean so I'm going to adjust the AFM to see if I can richen it up.

    My next major project is the headlights. At first only the right on was working. I unplugged the left one, cleaned the ground, re installed it and now neither work! Except the right high beam. I'm getting power at the fuse, so it seems like I have an electrical gremlin somewhere. There's a car show Friday night I'd like to take it to, but only if I can get the headlights working. Right now I'm daylight restricted.

    Here's a video of me pulling it out of the garage for the first time and a few glamour shots I took while breaking it in.



    Click image for larger version. 

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    Beautiful Car! I recognized it from instagram lol. My 280 arrives on friday.
    1976 280Z

  78. #178
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CG240Z View Post
    How are you guys determining what size potentiometer to use? Is it a trial and error thing? It seems the bigger you go, the harder it would be to fine tune. I got a 1k, I'm going to install it today and max it out. See if I notice a difference from there.
    I used a 2k ohm pod from Alpha p/n; B2K. Its adjusted to about 1000ohms.

    RV16AF-10-15R1-B2K Alpha (Taiwan) | Mouser

    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  79. #179
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    I installed a 1k yesterday and have it turned up about 3/4. Haven't pulled the plugs yet but there's a huge improvement. The car isn't bogging down any, the overall smoothness of the engine is much better.
    1978 280Z (Current Project) (Bought from original owner)
    (6/70) 240Z (In the family since 1973) (Project currently on hold)

    Car's instagram: @eleanorz_78

    "It's the Dodge Viper of 1970, in Japan"

  80. #180
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    Hey guys,

    I'm about to start profiling weber's a/f ratio's vs configuration changes. I'll try to do the same for EFI systems this summer and measure what the A/F ratio changes for teeth changes of AFM and resistor changes at the temp sensor as well as idle and WOT enrichment. May even pull out the scope and measure injector pulse width changes.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  81. #181
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
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    Uh-Oh. Look out... Blue's gettin' his geek on!!

    Getting the itch to blow the dust off the scope?

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