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Thread: Starter question

  1. #1
    Registered User idoxlr8's Avatar
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    Default Starter question

    Having issues with a start switch I believe but need some wisdom before I decide to replace it.

    I've performed the seat belt interlock removal on my 260 by removing and jumping all the appropriate relays but now when my switch is in the ON position the starter engages.

    Does this sound like a switch issue? It worked fine before I pulled the car off the road, possibly have something simple hooked up incorrectly?

    Thanks for any input.

    Dean

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    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idoxlr8 View Post
    Having issues with a start switch I believe but need some wisdom before I decide to replace it.

    I've performed the seat belt interlock removal on my 260 by removing and jumping all the appropriate relays but now when my switch is in the ON position the starter engages.

    Does this sound like a switch issue? It worked fine before I pulled the car off the road, possibly have something simple hooked up incorrectly?

    Thanks for any input.

    Dean
    What exactly did you jumper, and where did you get your guidance?
    Really, you only need to jumper the emergency switch under the hood.
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    Registered User idoxlr8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJ View Post
    What exactly did you jumper, and where did you get your guidance?
    Really, you only need to jumper the emergency switch under the hood.
    Connected the two wires off the emergency switch and eliminated the interlock relay and corresponding wires.

    Did a search and found most of the details off the forum.

    Everything works as it should, the weird thing is it now running the starter in the run and start switch position.

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    Thank you for the clarification. From your description, I would suspect one of two things is happening.
    1. The switch on the back of your ignition switch is going bad.
    2. You are getting feedback through the ballast resistor that is going through the ignition switch.

    The fixes for each would be
    1. Replace the igntion switch.
    2. Put a diode on the Black/Blue wire to prevent it from feeding back.

    How good are you with an electrical meter? I can tell you how to test.
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    Registered User idoxlr8's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve. I've ordered a new switch. The thing is 40 years old and the key pulls out in any position, it needs to be replaced anyway.

    I'll report back when I have the new one installed.

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    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    Oh, so you're replacing the whole switch? You can replace just the back portion. It's not to difficult to test to see if it's not working right, provided you know how to use an ohmmeter.

    Anyway, if it is number 2, I guess you'll learn how to put in a diode.
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    Quote Originally Posted by idoxlr8 View Post
    It worked fine before I pulled the car off the road, possibly have something simple hooked up incorrectly?
    I'm going to guess that you jumped the wrong wires. Just because everything worked fine before. On the 76 cars, the power to the starter solenoid and the power to the ignition system are all on completely separate circuits, initiated at the ignition switch. Odds are you've jumped switched power to the starter solenoid wire

    The wiring diagram for the 260Z is harder to look at but here's a link if you want to dig in - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...anual_wire.gif
    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zed Head View Post
    I'm going to guess that you jumped the wrong wires. Just because everything worked fine before. On the 76 cars, the power to the starter solenoid and the power to the ignition system are all on completely separate circuits, initiated at the ignition switch. Odds are you've jumped switched power to the starter solenoid wire

    The wiring diagram for the 260Z is harder to look at but here's a link if you want to dig in - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...anual_wire.gif
    Kind of what I was thinking. I jumped the blue and yellow/black based on what I read on another thread here.
    I'm open to suggestions.

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    You could reconnect everything to see if the switch is bad. If it still does it, ordering a switch might be a good idea. If not, you've ordered an extra switch.

    I copied the relay picture. I didn't follow all the traces but yellow/black is power to the starter solenoid (it's where "E" goes). Black/yellow is the other side of the relay, which I think is what needs power. SteveJ probably knows but maybe you went yellow/black, when you should have went black/yellow, and connected switched power to the solenoid.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

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