1st post. New to Zcar Club..here's what I have

[1970240z989]

I'm a member of several other car/truck forums that we own and now that we've aquired a 1970z, this seems the place to be. As this car is only three years younger than I, I don't know a whole lot. Long story short, I now have a 1970 240z. The date of manuf is 8/70 with VIN HLS30-08989. It is a one owner car bought off the showroom floor in Nov 1970 as an anniv gift to my wife's aunt, it is automatic . I'm hoping you all here can help me figure out what I have, as I have no clue. The car has been parked since 1985 in their garage. It was running when they parked it, but when I picked it up, the battery was missing and instead of trying to mess with it, I loaded it on a car transporter and brought it home. I plan on getting it running as soon as possible and replacing the interior. I'm located in Houston and will start looking for shops that can help. Any help, suggestions, comments, guidance is greatly appreciated.

thanks

[madkaw]

You already broke forum rules by not including pictures in your first post


...only kidding- but let's see them

welcome to CZCC

[26th-Z]

Courtesy Nissan in Richardson Texas will be a good source for parts - whatever parts are still available for your year. Then there is Motorsport Auto and Black Dragon. I would hold on to the automatic. So many have been lost to conversions and your car being an early example makes it a conversation piece. Have fun and welcome to the club.

[SteveJ]

There are plenty of parts links on my blog. Courtesy Nissan has been pretty good to me over the years.

[djwarner]

Welcome, you certainly have one of the earliest A/Ts made. You might find this thread interesting:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/o...st-debate.html

The earliest A/T we know of is SN 7969.

[Zed Head]

1985, that's about 29 years. Check the engine parts well before trying to turn it over and you might save some damage. Pull the valve cover and lube the cam and valve train, pull the plugs and squirt a few cc's of oil in, let it sit for a while to get the oil distributed, etc. stuff like that... Purge the fuel system, check the cooling system for rust (I've seen some water pumps with a water mark and rust on half the impeller). Get new tires, old ones can look fine but fail catastrophically. Check the air ducts for mice nests.

[Richard Oben]

Nice find. I have 8/70 #9070 and it is also an auto. Pix will help with everything. Is the plan to keep, sell, restore? Welcome. The folks here have all the answers, I used a ton of them in my restoration. Richard.

[Bruce Palmer]

Don't overlook that braking system. Purge all the old fluid and replace and see what you have. Old lines and sitting brake fluid drawing moisture can go a long way toward undermining the brakes ability to work.......

Oh, and you'll need carbs....... nyuck nyuck

You've found the forum for your solutions....

[Carl Beck]

Hello 1970240z..
Sound like a very nice 240Z to which you have some personal connection - how lucky can you be? - Personally, I'd keep it pure stock including the A/T. But that's just me..

We had a long discussion about what to do with a Z that has been sitting a long time - this tread might be very useful to you
http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/i...tml#post184082

good luck,
Carl B.

[1970240z989]

Nice find. I have 8/70 #9070 and it is also an auto. Pix will help with everything. Is the plan to keep, sell, restore? Welcome. The folks here have all the answers, I used a ton of them in my restoration. Richard.

Thanks for all the comments, suggestions and advice. The plan is to get it running and keep in as original condition as possible. I can't find any rust, but then I haven't pulled the carpet. Interior will have to be redone. I'll post pics as soon as I figure out how to do it. I love cars, but this is definitely not in my wheel house. I haven't owned anything older than a few years. My challenge right now is finding an honest and knowledgeable mechanic in Houston. I've spoken with a few, but they all either haven't showed up or are not familiar with what I have.
Thanks again to all of you...
I'll

[Bruce Palmer]

What's the status of Awesome Z?

[1970240z989]

I hope I figured out how to post the pics. The car looks worse than what it is. 67k original miles, 1 owner..

[an_unusual_eye]

actually... looks like a good solid starting point. welcome, and enjoy the ride.

[ajmcforester]

I hope your good with electrical. You can't be much worse that the last owner. I'd start cleaning the car and replacing the worn out part, and especially focus on the wiring otherwise you will be stuck on the road from electical problems or a fire from the wires. You can still get the clips for the blocks in the wirer harness to make the repair better. It is a nice car, it should be a good project and welcome.

[Darrel]

Thanks for all the comments, suggestions and advice. The plan is to get it running and keep in as original condition as possible. I can't find any rust, but then I haven't pulled the carpet. Interior will have to be redone. I'll post pics as soon as I figure out how to do it. I love cars, but this is definitely not in my wheel house. I haven't owned anything older than a few years. My challenge right now is finding an honest and knowledgeable mechanic in Houston. I've spoken with a few, but they all either haven't showed up or are not familiar with what I have.
Thanks again to all of you...
I'll

Contact your local z club for mechanic recommendations.

[Mark Maras]

The first thing I do when a new piece of vintage tin shows up, is to get a service-repair manual & start reading. Should you choose to have a mech. do the work, your new knowledge will help both of you. You may also find that many of these upcoming repairs, even the electrical, are very easy to understand and can be done at home. These early Zs were not a complex car at all & most repairs are doable with basic tools. The manuals will also warn you when you're getting in over your head. As always, you have this incredible group of knowledgable well wishers to help in any way possible. Enjoy your toy.
Mark in Portland

[Oiluj]

Similar stripe as my 1st 240Z many years ago. It does look like a good starting point.

[1970240z989]

Similar stripe as my 1st 240Z many years ago. It does look like a good starting point.

Great!! I've looked around everywhere and couldn't find one with a stripe. I was starting to think it was put on after it was bought, even though I was told that's how it came from the dealer. Maybe it was a dealer installed item?? Or did yours come like that from the factory?

M Maras, going to start looking for a service repair manual. Google has been my friend so far, but I'll click on some of the suggested links above.

ajmcforester--yeah, not sure what happened with the wiring. Hoping it won't be a hard fix.

Surprisingly the paint still has shine, so I won't be spending money there...

[ajmcforester]

I was going to ask what is the logo above the datsun logo on the hood?

Like the stripe and how it has aged it might be fun to leave the out side looking slightly worn and fix spot like near the headlight bucket.matching age look on white is net hard.

[1970240z989]

I was going to ask what is the logo above the datsun logo on the hood?

Like the stripe and how it has aged it might be fun to leave the out side looking slightly worn and fix spot like near the headlight bucket.matching age look on white is net hard.

The logo/emblem says Notre Dame, but it's not the University one, more like the Notre Dame Church logo. I'll get a close up pic of it and post. The car came with a replacement headlight bucket, but I think it might be easier to sand the bondo and try to match it.
The car has a lot of replacement parts that are in the hatch area. Apparently the PO had a lot of time on his hands and bought extra things for it. The pics I took have some z40 & Datsun emblems missing, but I found them in a tool box he included.
On a lighter note, Datsun is so old that spell check doesn't recognize it!!

[ajmcforester]

The originals will be plastic so hold on to them if they are. I was repairing my plastic ones they seem to be made with a fiber mixed in, so be careful with them because I think it is asbestos. Also expect the paint to look different on the plastic ones they seem to discolor faster.

[djwarner]

Series I headlight scoops are made of fiberglass.

[26th-Z]

Series I headlight scoops are made of fiberglass.

Specifically, Fiber Reinforced Plastic, FRP. The fibers are not asbestos (where on earth does anyone get these ideas)! Looks good - I like the pictures. The stripe could have been installed by the dealer, but they are not how the car was imported. I suggest you start searching through the archives. There is a ton of information about the early cars.

[ajmcforester]

Specifically, Fiber Reinforced Plastic, FRP. The fibers are not asbestos (where on earth does anyone get these ideas)! Looks good - I like the pictures. The stripe could have been installed by the dealer, but they are not how the car was imported. I suggest you start searching through the archives. There is a ton of information about the early cars.

Then what is the fibers, it don't act like glass?

[Pharaohabq]

Nice find. Those triples really stand out. Hopefully they're in good shape. For as long as it's sat, you may have some gas gummed up clogged fuel lines. We can hope not. but don't hold your breath. What they said about lubbing things is definitely great advice. Pulling the plugs and putting oil in to sit a while is sound, but I'd use Mystery oil, or WD-40 and hit it a few times, then with a bar and a socket, I'd crank it over manually (clockwise looking at the front of the engine, try not to go CCW, as you can slack the timing chain) It should pop loose and rotate fairly easily. If you hear grinding noises, then stop, because you'll need to take a much closer look.

If it turns okay, then Same as was said, you can check the cam, (You DO NOT have to remove the cover, just open the oil fill and load it up with WD 40.) while manually turning the engine, you can check to see if there's a lot of rust on the cams. Some surface rust is fine, but flaking is BAD. Once that's all done, CHANGE THE OIL/FILTER, The WD40/Mystery oil is not good for regular oil.

Once that's all set, button up the plugs and wires 153624.

I don't know where your Rad hoses are, but you'll need to fix that of course. I'm not sure what's up with the Prestone bottle. It looks like a makeshift overflow.

Really the Fuel tank should be dropped and hot tanked. but you may not want to risk any of the hoses for that, so just change your filters and hope for the best. If it starts clogging up from rust, then you may not have a choice. Any old gas would need to be drained. The Fuel lines from the tank to the pump hopefully will be clear, if not, you can try to snake them with some bailing wire or an old speedo cable, but it might be easier to replace. The Fuel pump is there on the front of the engine. It's Mechanical. Hopefully it's still good, but it may need to be rebuilt. You just need to pull off the output hose and run a line into a gas can so you can see if it's doing anything (After you've popped the engine loose and changed the oil) when you crank the engine over with the starter.

Likely those triples will need to be rebuilt. who knows how gummed up they could be, but if the line running to them from the pump still has liquid gas then it's a very good sign. If that's the case, remove the air filters and load them up with carb cleaner, and let them sit. load up again every few hours and you might get lucky. Otherwise it's rebuild time x3, you'll be an expert when you get to the 3rd one.

My 240 is #5832 Also 11/70. Same year and month as me. That's why I wanted to rebuild mine... If you go with Metal buckets, I am looking for a good driverside FRP scoop.

That Auto Tranny, I wouldn't wish it on anyone, If I were you I'd drain it, bag it and crate it up in a corner for the next guy, then get a 82/83' ZX tranny/clutch/flywheel w/ throw-out bearing and 77' mounts and clutch cylinders. The shaft should be fine. That'll make you much happier and it will all bolt right up.

You'll probably want to DL the FSM and find a Haynes manuals they're pretty invaluable.

Your AC looks like the York system, and I think was a dealer option. Tho it looks a little different than mine. It should be fixable but it's an R12 system.

Well if you have questions, please ask. We're here to help and probably are more excited than you are about your car.

Phar

[Willoughby Z]

Great!! I've looked around everywhere and couldn't find one with a stripe. I was starting to think it was put on after it was bought, even though I was told that's how it came from the dealer. Maybe it was a dealer installed item?? Or did yours come like that from the factory?

My first Z had pin stripes added at the dealership by a Trim Brite vendor. He was on the lot the day I came to pick up the car. He had or was about to stripe almost every car there. He did great work and his designs were very subtle and tasteful, IMO, matching designs and colors to the various models. Mine was a double over-under that started as a point at the headlight bucket, increasing in width ( maybe 3/4'?) following the shoulder line and just before turning 90 degrees across the hatch, they crossed each other. The car was that metallic copper and the stripes were a pale green and pale yellow. I loved it.
I wish I had photos.

[Oiluj]

I was second owner of my first Z, but paperwork indicated the stripes were an after-market item installed at the dealer. I'm pretty sure mine were from Trim-Brite also.

It was a persimmon red 73' Z with yellow-beige stripes of same design as yours, with black / gold-metallic edge lines.
Color combo sounds kinda yucky, but it actually looked good and nicely highlighted the lines of the car.

[Richard Oben]

I know some do not like the automatic but as a rare piece we rebuilt it and left it in the car. Works fine. Same final drive as a 4 speed so it is not bad.

I redid the AC and converted to a rotary compressor and all in one under dash unit, the york dealer add on is ok at best. HTH, Richard 9070.

[1970240z989]

Sorry for the delay in replying, but I just hadn't gotten around to doing anything until this past weekend. Well, the motor was siezed, but after a lot of patience and mystery oil, I was able to get it to turn maybe 3/4 of a full rotation. That's where I'm at, it will turn then it stops at the same place. It almost feels like a rod(?) maybe. Not sure what it could be, but that's as far as I'll go without getting help. I'll provide an update as soon as I get someone else to look at it. Hopefully it not bad news...
thanks to all of you for the great advice...

[Mark Maras]

Probably a valve stuck in the open position. Time to pull the valve cover and have a look see. Don't give up yet.

[1970240z989]

Update....
Unfortunately haven't had time to reply to all of ya'lls post. Thank you for all the tips. So the car sat in our shop untouched for the better part of 4 months. From my last post, I couldn't get it to turn completely. I had it towed to a friends house the first week of July with instructions to mess with it when he had time, as I was in no rush. Well, great news, it was a stuck valve and after babying it this past week, he got it to crank...and it sounds great!! I had purchased new plugs, distb cap, wiring, etc, but he got it to start with out changing anything-he rigged a hose to jug of gas, so not sure what's i the fuel tank yet. Of course he'll change it all out, I was just surprised that after 25+ years, it still sounded so smooth with the old parts. If you recall, the wiring inside looked horrible, however all the basic electrical-lights, turn signals, door open chime-works fine. I guess the original owner was maybe trying to change out the radio and then decided against?? Not sure. Regardless, here are some questions for you all;
1. We're debating on rebuilding the 3 carbs, only because they sat for so long. Should we?
2. The car has a mechanical and electrical fuel pump. The electrical one didn't come out until 1973, so I have to assume the previous owner added it. I've called a few places and can't seem to locate them. Any suggestions?
3. Interior upholstery needs to be redone. Should I redo it as original (blue velour) or go with leather or something similar to leather?
4. In our excitement we didn't check the a/c, but it's almost certainly r12. How easy is a retro to do and any idea on cost ?
5. Still need to have brakes done, any tips on doing those?

The next steps are change/flush transmission fluid, flush radiator, replace belts, replace tires. The hard part seems to be done, everything else seems to be easy.. I hope.

Thanks again for all the help.

[an_unusual_eye]

glad to hear some progress has been made without much pain. just a couple quick thoughts...

1. "carb rebuild"... absolutely. clean slate from the start will save you a bunch of time figuring out you need to rebuild the carbs.

2. "and electrical fuel pump"... definitely added when the carbs were. should be able to match to something similar at any decent parts outlet or online.

3. "upholstery"... blue velour wasn't original. would have been black vinyl like the door panels. the Motorsport kit is available (foam too if you need it) and fits great

4. "a/c"... all would have been dealer installed parts. is the system all there? it's definitely not all in place. parts may be tough to find.

5. "brakes"... easy stuff with readily available parts.

and... the wiring. some of that aftermarket wiring will be related to the electric fuel pump, some to the stereo, and some to the A/C. all non-factory parts. may not be too much of a mess after you isolate those routes.

[1970240z989]

Need a little help. I'm rebuilding the carbs and replacing the filters. The carbs are Weber 40DCOE2, I'm having a
heck of a time finding the filters and the housing for them. I want to replace the yellow housing (mount and faceplate?) with either chrome or black or something else that is reasonable. Any suggestions??

[Carl Beck]

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...FcZQ7AodoH4AsQ

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/knn-56-1710

You should get the 4.5" tall air cleaners - so you can run the air horns on the crab's.

[bacarl]

... I want to replace the yellow housing (mount and faceplate?) with either chrome or black or something else that is reasonable. Any suggestions??

Paint??