Did you pick it up? Installed yet?
Just called for an update and mine should be through the dyno process in a week or so... Mixed feelings :/
Thats good news!
Did you pick it up? Installed yet?
Just called for an update and mine should be through the dyno process in a week or so... Mixed feelings :/
Its officially arrived! I spent the last 2 weeks traveling Europe so that put a bit of delay on things but i took my first jet lagged day back to go get the engine. Rebello had probably a dozen motors wrapped in plastic that looked like they were ready to go and one wicked sounding inline 6 on the dyno with a red valve cover. Ill be working on the engine bay this weekend. Heres the best bad picture with a totally unrelated child in the background jumping with excitement.
Early 1974 260z
https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/
Congrats. Dave called on Thursday to say the engine was going on dyno, havn't heard any numbers yet or shipping info, but it could possibly be already wrapped in plastic and ready to go.
Nice! i wonder if thats the one I saw being tested when i was there on Friday. I have the same carbs and cam selection. The displacement says 200 on there, is that a typo? 200 cubic inches is 3.27 liters
Early 1974 260z
https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/
Probably a typo. Dave sent the dyno sheet with my name in the filename, but the customer name wasn't me and the engine was "2.75 L", so I called and inquired and this one came at me. He probably just changed the two entries, took a screen shot and re-sent.
-Just checking the original file, disp and bore is the same in the "2.75 L" numbers. I vote typo.
Wasn't my engine on the dyno, as it only went on yesterday morning.
Dyno's are always a mystery though. How it actually moves the car will be the test. I have a friend who had his ride dyno at 400 WHP at the performance shop that did the work and it ran like a bag of hammers. He took it to a reputable outfit who specializes in Subaru tuning, they didn't change any parts, but fixed the mapping, etc, it pulled way harder and ran perfectly smooth, but dyno'd at 230 WHP...
Speaking of moving the car. I have an app on my phone called SpeedView on Android. I got it for ground speed to calibrate my boat's speedos but it will also do 0-60 times...my be interesting.
Charles
I strongly question the accuracy of a 0-60 time based on a consumer grade GPS app, but I'll give it a try. If anyone knows of one that correlates accelerometer and gps data in the calculations, let me know. It's currently snowing like crazy anyway... Again, more delays in Antioch. Hopefully engine is here by Friday at least (was previously Monday as of last Wednesday).
Kurby, we should try the same app and see what we get for resultsI'm very curious; perhaps as curious as I am to see what these bored carbs look like. If anyone has suggestions for some velocity stacks and filters... Or what to use to replace the factory airfilter rubber gasket o-ring thing.
So consumer gps is accurate to what 3 yards? How big an error can gps give over a 0-60 distance if 3 yards on either end is the margin of error? This is not for Road & Track just trying to get a number that's close...
Charles
On dyno sheet, B7ES is a colder plug than stock BPR6ES.
There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.
John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe
http://ZSportCanada.com
Distance sensitivity aside, how frequently does your phone sample for a position? If it does it every 1/10th of a second and there is up to 3 yards in error for each measurement, how does it accurately know when you're even doing 60 MPH? I'm assuming these apps, (AND legit GPS speedometers, like the Autohut gauges) average speed based on average points over a set time. So while it's timing abilities may be accurate, I somewhat doubt that the time a car reaches an extrapolated velocity over an estimated distance is going to be much better than you can do with a stop watch.
Watching some user videos of "aDyno" in action, shows a 0-60 time starting to calculate over a second after the car left the line and not giving a final result until several seconds after the speed was reached. There is some sort of algorithm at work, taking averages and making stuff up. Maybe that math works well in the end, but these same apps are doing theoretical dynos based on your cars mass and how quickly it pull from one RPM to the next in a certain gear, and of all times, a 0-60 is tricky to measure. A 1/4 mile app may be more accurate given a longer distance, with less acceleration.
If the app considers accelerometer data, than it should know when you drop the clutch, when you shift, and when you're at speed based on acceleration alone. That would be an app I would use, but do phone accelerometers even work for that range of force? Do they all have the same standards, calibration and methods of detecting movement? Also, a lot of these will pair to an OBDII dongle and grab speed data from there in which case I imagine the GPS data isn't even used.
I'll try it out, but if it says 5 seconds, and really I'm 5.5 or 4.5, that's an absolutely huge difference. I might buy an actual recording device for this, just to play with anyway.
Maybe I'm mistaken.
Colder could be for higher compression to reduce knock/pre-detonation
There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.
John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe
http://ZSportCanada.com
Dave Rebello likes compression. I had to talk him down from 11:1 and remind him I live at 4500ft and regularly drive through a 7000ft pass and down to sea level.
Rob
2000 BMW R1100 RT-SE (for sale)
1999 Toyota 4Runner Supercharged
1975 Porsche 914 stroker motor autoX car
1973 Datsun 240Z Restoration project. New paint in original white. E31 head on 2.4 block. Nissan Motorsports header. R200 with Nissan motorsports LSD.
Dynolicious is available on apple devices, and supposedly it single handedly killed the G-Tech performance devices. I haven't used it myself as I have an android, and aDyno does look like a hokey toy.
Early 1974 260z
https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/
Nice!! I would like to get something like that On my z, I wounder how much that cost? I live close to rebellos shop I did not know about his shop.
The higher the elevation, the less dense the air, and the more compression you can get away with for a given octane rating. FWIW...
2/74 260Z
I would think the cam and valve overlap would play a part in that also...
Charles
Rob
2000 BMW R1100 RT-SE (for sale)
1999 Toyota 4Runner Supercharged
1975 Porsche 914 stroker motor autoX car
1973 Datsun 240Z Restoration project. New paint in original white. E31 head on 2.4 block. Nissan Motorsports header. R200 with Nissan motorsports LSD.
Correct Charles. Compression is two different animals. We are talking about static compression here. Mine, at 10.1:1 will make it harder for the starter to kick the rotating mass into motion when you turn the key. The dynamic compression is what the engine is working with while running. The static compression is higher as the cam takes away from the big number. I just don't want to use race gas ever. You never know when the government will take that away, the way lead went away. Then the closest thing we could come to race gas would be 100 LL AVGAS. We'd have to "know" someone at the fixed base operation so we could pull up to the pump and fill up. Big money too!![]()
Rob
2000 BMW R1100 RT-SE (for sale)
1999 Toyota 4Runner Supercharged
1975 Porsche 914 stroker motor autoX car
1973 Datsun 240Z Restoration project. New paint in original white. E31 head on 2.4 block. Nissan Motorsports header. R200 with Nissan motorsports LSD.
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