Results 1 to 48 of 48

Thread: Fuel Pump Check Valve Alternatives

  1. #1
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default Fuel Pump Check Valve Alternatives

    The original Bosch fuel pump check valve is NLA and I've been messing around with alternatives. The original check valve has a 10mm x 1.0 threaded inlet and a barbed outlet to accept an 8mm hose. Can't get it anymore... There are other Bosch check valves available with a 10mm x 1.0 threaded inlet, but the outlet styles are different. Not a problem!

    Here's the first alternative I've worked through. This one uses a 14mm thread taper seat style outlet.

    Bosch part number 1 587 010 539

    Here's a pic of the stock check valve on top and the 539 on the bottom. Note that the pump end threaded portion of the alternate is longer than the original valve. It is so long, in fact, that it will hit the armature inside the fuel pump if inserted all the way:


    First, you have to deal with the longer threaded portion before you can screw the valve into the pump. If you don't you'll mess up the insides of your pump. I cut off a couple threads to shorten it. I used my lathe (because I have one), but you could just as easily use a hacksaw or file. Just make sure you pack the hole with some paper towel or something so you don't get metal chips inside the valve. If you can't deal with making it shorter, then you could just stack up a couple extra copper washers to take up the difference. Here's a shot of the valve after I shortened the pump end threaded portion:


    Now about the outlet end. Here's a shot where you can see the tapered seat on the outlet end:


    How do we deal with the outlet end? Easy... Just grab a fuel rail hose off a junked Audi. I didn't get the year or style, but they were easy to come by. I think a couple Audi models (and maybe even VW) used the same hose. Here's the alternative valve installed in the pump and the Audi fuel hose laying next to the pump:


    You can get the hoses with the end attached with a clamp, or permanently crimped on like I did. Here's the conical seat on the fuel hose that mates with the check valve:


    Here's another shot showing the printing on the side of the hose.


    Attach the hose to the valve and then loop the hose around and clamp it to the inlet of the dampener. Done. Cheap and still available. And easier to change in the future if necessary in the event that it goes bad:


    Only other complication was that the original hold down clamp for the original steel loop was too small to fit the Audi rubber hose through. I just used an appropriately sized cable clamp instead.

    When I get another chance, I'll talk some about a banjo style as an alternative. I got one of those as well.
    Last edited by Mike; 05-05-2014 at 06:42 PM. Reason: Modified per Cap O request.

  2. #2
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-19635
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Posts
    2,787

    Default

    Very nice, Captain!
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  3. #3
    Registered User rcb280z's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-21454
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ventura Ca.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    873

    Default

    Can't wait to hear results. I have had no luck with the ones I tried. However, mine were placed closer to the engine, on the return line. Held for about 2 hrs and bled off.

  4. #4
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    I already know the results... It works great. I actually put it on my car for the first time near the end of last summer, but was in too much of a hurry to take pics then. I knew I would be back in there again this off-season, so I saved the formal documentation until now.

    So if you're waiting for testimonials about performance, then I've got that too.

    On edit - About the pressure bleed... Even with the new valve my fuel pressure bleeds off in a couple hours as well, but it's not the check valve. Mine is either the fuel pressure regulator or an injector. Small enough bleed that I've still got fuel pressure even after I've crested the heat soak of a hot start, so I'm not too worried about it. It's lower priority now.
    Last edited by Captain Obvious; 03-24-2014 at 05:10 AM.

  5. #5
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-26512
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    1,420

    Default

    Looking good Captain. How did you go with the o-rings or did a miss a post?
    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  6. #6
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Chas, I got the O-rings and the install went fine. I'm kinda flitting around between eight different projects and it slipped my mind. I was also thinking that I wouldn't post much about it until I had put fuel back into the pump and made sure that everything worked as intended with no leaks and such. So at this time, the O-rings are in, but untested. I know... What could possibly go wrong.

    go wrong.
    go wrong.

  7. #7
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Flare style check valve not your thing? Here's a banjo style alternative I've worked through. This one uses a 12mm banjo style outlet.

    Bosch part number 1 587 010 536
    Bosch part number 1 587 010 537

    And along with either of the above, you'll also need a 12mm x 1.5 sealing cap nut:

    Bosch part number 2 915 142 018
    or Mercedes part number 1239900053

    Here's a pic with the original valve up top and banjo style on bottom. Again, notice that the alternate is too long on the fuel pump inlet side:


    Give the pump inlet end the same cut off treatment:


    Again the trick is the different style outlet end. For this one, grab a 12mm banjo style hose off a junker. I grabbed one off a Honda Civic since just about half the cars at my local yard are Civics. Here's the pump with the check valve installed and the Civic fuel hose laying next to it:


    Cut the banjo fuel hose off at the appropriate length:


    And put it in place. There might be other hoses that fit more natural than the Civic, but it failing other options, the Civic hose works. If you find something better, please post it up:


    The other trick with the banjo style is that you have to cap the end of the valve. Bosch uses 12mm x 1.50 threads, so buy an appropriate cap (or find one on a Mercedes in the junkyard). Unfortunately Honda uses a 12mm x 1.25 threaded cap so the Honda caps won't work:


    Here's the parts you'll need for the banjo alternative:

  8. #8
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-26512
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    1,420

    Default

    Nice work. Great research your doing. Both very good alternatives to a leaking check valve. I like the banjo version myself and Mercedes are easy to find here

    You should write this up in the Tech section once your done testing. A lot of people go for a new aftermarket pump, but I prefer trying to keep the original and the work you have done here will help a lot of people do just that.

    If your handy with silver solder, you could heat the banjo, remove the hose and solder your original piping in the banjo. You would need to re-bend it to match the new angle.
    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  9. #9
    Registered User mjr45's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-21301
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Divide, CO
    Posts
    572

    Default

    Cap'n, just as an FYI that Bosch sealing cap for a banjo style line is NLA, so it'd have to be obtained from a bone yard.
    75 280Z almost done
    49 Chevy 3100 p/u next project
    96 Dodge 2500 4X4 tows my 5th wheel

  10. #10
    Registered User txvepr's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-29149
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Corinth,Tx.
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Your other option if you do not want to mess with your fuel pump is to go with an inline fuel check valve, say after the fuel filter in your engine bay. I did this to good effect until I'm ready to completely replace my fuel pump, which still puts out good pressure...
    You can try AZ or CarQuest...

  11. #11
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mjr45 View Post
    Cap'n, just as an FYI that Bosch sealing cap for a banjo style line is NLA, so it'd have to be obtained from a bone yard.
    Hmmm... To be completely honest (and a little embarrassed)... I did not actually purchase one of those sealing caps for the banjo style. The cap shown in my pic is actually a Honda cap with the wrong thread pitch. I figured out the part number and verified that they were seemingly available on both RockAuto and ebay and called it a day. I figured that I had already spent extra money on several different check valve styles and for something as simple as that cap, I didn't need to buy one just to prove that I could.

    So if you go to Rock Auto's site and hit the part number search tab at the top, that cap comes up for $2.40. Did you try them? It appears they have them?

    If not RockAuto, they're on ebay. More money, but I'm sure they're available.

  12. #12
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    txvepr, For performance reasons, the best functional place for the check valve is back by the pump where it is on the stock system. But I agree that it would sure be convenient to have it up front.

    With that in mind, I've identified and purchased a fuel filter that fits the stock mount and accepts an alternate check valve to be screwed directly into the filter. However, I haven't yet worked out how to easily connect to the other end of that check valve and that's why I haven't talked about that option.

  13. #13
    Registered User mjr45's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-21301
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Divide, CO
    Posts
    572

    Default

    Cap'n, I opted for the check valve with the Audi fuel line, just because it's easier to find the Audi fuel line. I took off my pump yesterday and the stock check valve sorta works, just real sticky so I'll change it out and keep the old valve. When I took off my pump head, the second O ring was so distorted it won't fit back in, its stretched about 1/4" larger than the groove in the pump, and while I didn't have any fuel leaks and it made good pressure I'm sure it wasn't helping. Have to order those O rings today, I read the thread on sizing so its all good. Thanks for your info, it really helps make things easier.
    Mike
    Last edited by mjr45; 04-03-2014 at 07:29 AM.
    75 280Z almost done
    49 Chevy 3100 p/u next project
    96 Dodge 2500 4X4 tows my 5th wheel

  14. #14
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-26512
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    1,420

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mjr45 View Post
    When I took off my pump head, the second O ring was so distorted it won't fit back in, its stretched about 1/4" larger than the groove in the pump, and while I didn't have any fuel leaks and it made good pressure I'm sure it wasn't helping. Have to order those O rings today, I read the thread on sizing so its all good. Thanks for your info, it really helps make things easier.
    Mike
    The oversized O-ring is probably made of EPDM. EPDM is used for the brake system, but that material will swell up a lot when it comes in contact with petroleum / mineral oil based products. It kept doing its job until you released it.

    Don't like your chances of getting it back in Time for a new one.
    The right material is Viton or NBR.

    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  15. #15
    Registered User mjr45's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-21301
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Divide, CO
    Posts
    572

    Default

    Chas, you're right I ordered 2 new Viton O rings today in 2mmX33.5mm. From what I read(I think is was a reply of yours in the O ring thread) that is the correct size. I actually did get that ring to go back in, but that only after leaving it out overnite in the garage at 20. Thanks.
    Mike
    75 280Z almost done
    49 Chevy 3100 p/u next project
    96 Dodge 2500 4X4 tows my 5th wheel

  16. #16
    Registered User rossiz's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-30163
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    323

    Default

    so i'm going crazy trying to locate one of these audi hoses...
    i'm not interested in getting a used part - if i'm going to pull my fuel pump apart and replace the check valve, i'm going to use new hose. i've searched and found the part as a fuel rail feeder hose to a 2001 audi s4 (used part seen here: 01 2001 AUDI S4 A4 B5 2.7 - GAS FUEL LINE / HOSE / PIPE 8D0201541AA - WolfAutoParts.Com) but i can't seem to find it new anywhere???

    anyone know where i can buy this? if not, i will go to a local shop and have them install the proper fitting on a piece of fuel injection hose (516" right?)

    or is there a screw-together fitting, like the an6 fittings that i see on sst braided hoses, that will fit and work for this application?
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

  17. #17
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Mike, I'm running the check valve with the Audi line on my car as well. I was just trying to provide other Z guys with as many different options as well.

    I've got baggies of extra O-rings... I gotta get my car back together so I can test that fuel pump!

  18. #18
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rossiz View Post
    so i'm going crazy trying to locate one of these audi hoses...
    i'm not interested in getting a used part - if i'm going to pull my fuel pump apart and replace the check valve, i'm going to use new hose.
    If you're looking for new... Have you tried an Audi dealer?

  19. #19
    Registered User mjr45's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-21301
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Divide, CO
    Posts
    572

    Default

    Cap'n. I ordered the Viton O rings from a place called the O Ring Store or Connection, I looked at McMaster and didn't feel like I needed 50 of them which was the minimum order, in hindsight it would probably have been cheaper to get the bag of 50. I'll go and get the Audi line sometime next week after I get the check valve and put it back together and see what happens, I'll let you know.
    Mike
    75 280Z almost done
    49 Chevy 3100 p/u next project
    96 Dodge 2500 4X4 tows my 5th wheel

  20. #20
    Registered User rossiz's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-30163
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    323

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Obvious View Post
    If you're looking for new... Have you tried an Audi dealer?
    well now cap'n... i guess now your screen name makes sense
    actually, i tend to avoid dealers in general as my experience has usually been that they:

    1) are annoyed/bothered by me being there to waste their time with a goose hunt for a wacky old part (vs. buying a new car)
    2) charge 2x the cost of getting it anywhere else (because they'd rather be selling me a new car)
    3) smirk/chuckle at my "project" (and recommend that i buy a new car)

    yes, my own baggage, i know.

    i'm gonna try going town to nebar (industrial hose guys) and see if they'll whip me up a length of hose with the right fitting.
    rather give my $$ to those guys.
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

  21. #21
    Low Budget/High Value
    Member ID
    CZCC-20342
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Washington County, OR
    Posts
    3,629

    Default

    A backyard check valve solution might be to gut a broken pump with a good valve and place the pump body in-line between the working pump and the filter.

    Or take the check valve and find the fittings to fit a hose barb and just insert it in-line. I have an old check valve and pondered using it with my aftermarket FPR that leaks down but the pressure was on the wrong side to use it that way.

    Just some options, if you have a pump that works well and is installed. If you insert the valve low in the fuel system, the leaky part of the fuel system should stay full from gravity.
    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

  22. #22
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rossiz View Post
    well now cap'n... i guess now your screen name makes sense
    Well duh.

    So you want a new part from Audi, but don't want to deal with the hassle or cost. I get it.

    If your local hydraulic shop succeeds, make sure you take some pics of that. It would add to the knowledge base. Let us know what the hydraulics shop comes up with for costs too.

  23. #23
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mjr45 View Post
    I looked at McMaster and didn't feel like I needed 50 of them which was the minimum order
    Mike, Haha! I've got bags of extras from McMaster. Nitrile though, not Viton. As soon as I get my car back together and can verify that everything works properly, I'm going to offer my extras to the forum. I know you can't wait though. Sorry I didn't move fast enough to cover you.

  24. #24
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    And one more thing. Any of you guys putting one of those alternative valves on... I'll cut them down to length for you if you want. You can do it with a hacksaw or a file, but it's a fifteen second job on the lathe and it's a nice clean square cut. I'd be happy to chuck them up and slice them for you if you want to cover shipping.

    Just don't forget to shorten them somehow before you smash the excess into your pump armature!

  25. #25
    Registered User mjr45's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-21301
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Divide, CO
    Posts
    572

    Default

    Cap'n I appreciate the offer on the O rings, I ordered the new ones about an hour before you posted the offer, my impatience sometimes gets the best of me. I just might take you up on cutting the check valve down, since I had planned on doing it with a Dremel, which would work, just not as smooth and probably not anywhere near as straight on top of which my Z will be down for at least another couple of weeks, to damn cold and snowy still up here in the thin air. Send me your address by PM, thanks.
    Mike
    75 280Z almost done
    49 Chevy 3100 p/u next project
    96 Dodge 2500 4X4 tows my 5th wheel

  26. #26
    Registered User rossiz's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-30163
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    323

    Default Bosch part number 1 587 010 004 Will NOT Work...

    the threads are not a match to the pump housing - too big.

    car in the air, fuel pump out, scrambling for the right part...
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Check Valve.jpg 
Views:	87 
Size:	122.0 KB 
ID:	70651
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

  27. #27
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Oh crap... Rhat's not right! Don't know what happened, but I'll dig into it right away and let you know.

    Can I send you my check valve? It's already cut down, and my car isn't going anywhere for a little while yet. Put your old one back in for a few days?
    Last edited by Captain Obvious; 04-05-2014 at 06:15 PM.

  28. #28
    Registered User rossiz's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-30163
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    323

    Default Fix What Ya Got

    well i was completely SOL with the volvo check valve, and the worst part was i had a day blocked out to get the job done (a free day can be harder to come by than an NLA part for me). so i figured i'd take a look at exactly just what was "toast" about my OEM check valve. it's such a simple part - just a spring, a retainer and a stopper - that maybe it could be re-built?

    the answer is yes - and it's not a hard job at all.

    the biggest challenge is getting the thing apart, as it's all held together by the crimped lip at the output end of the valve (the barb that the hose goes on). i used a file to carefully remove the crimped material until i could see the perimeter of the retainer. then i gently pried it out with a small screwdriver and removed the spring and rubber stopper. i expected the retainer to fly out as soon as i got it loose, but it didn't because the spring wasn't applying enough pressure on it. turns out this is why the valve wasn't working.

    i inspected the stopper - it was fine. still soft/supple and no tears or wear. the inside of the casing was dirty and looked a little corroded, so i used fine steel wool to clean out the seat. to do this, i put the threaded end of the check valve into a drill and twisted the steel wool into a long thin finger to get it into the valve seat, then spun the valve and the steel wool polished out the inside of the valve nicely.

    the spring is tapered - the small end grabs/holds the back of the rubber stopper and the wide end sits against the retainer. the spring is very light, so it doesn't take much to stretch it out so it will apply sealing pressure. you have to be careful to stretch it evenly, not just one coil. i stretched it till it was about 1/8" longer than the valve housing (at the start it was just resting against the back of the retainer).

    i snapped the retainer back in and here's where i got really lucky - a 10mm craftsman socket has a beveled interior that's just the right size to peen over the tip of the valve body and hold in the retainer. i set the valve, threaded side down on the vice anvil and put the socket over it, then gave it a few taps with a hammer and the metal peened nicely around the retainer. i then put the valve back into my drill and spun it against some 320 grit paper to de-burr the tip.

    i tested the valve with compressed air and it now functions perfectly in both directions.

    just for kicks i checked the little filter screen at the pump inlet (the long, narrow cone) and it tore apart as i was removing it. no worries, because i have an inline filter now between the tank and the pump. the bottom of the cone was packed full with crud, so i'm guessing that probably wasn't helping things either.

    put everything back together, primed the fuel pump (need to fill the tank all the way up for that) and she fired right up. my fuel pressure is now up to a solid 36psi - before it was at 30 or 32 at best. i'm guessing that the combination of the bad valve and restricted filter screen were the issues. best part is, the system is holding pressure perfectly.

    we'll see if this helps the hot start issue...
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

  29. #29
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Awesome. Glad you were able to get some more life out of your original valve. That wasn't an option for me as my old check valve was empty. Completely empty. I don't know where the guts went, but they were nowhere to be found. No spring... No seal... No nothing.

    I dug into the numbers a little and only answer I can really come up with is that I was juggling so many different check valve part numbers that I simply screwed up and listed one that didn't belong.

    I've verified that the Bosch part number 1 587 010 539 works for the Audi hose. That's the one I'm running on my car now. The -004 is the one that fits into the fuel filter I mentioned earlier as an attempt to move the check valve to the engine compartment.

    So sorry for the screw up and I'll send a note to the moderators to see if I can have them delete the -004 part number from the list so no one else falls into the same hole.

  30. #30
    Registered User rossiz's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-30163
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    323

    Default

    no worries cap'n - i'm actually really excited that i was able to fix the original part, and i wouldn't have been motivated to do so if i had the replacement part :}

    one thing i have to mention: i just got back from taking the car out for a test drive and WOW!! it's running so incredibly well now! it seems odd that having low pressure would have such a dramatic effect, but it idles smooth as silk now (was always rough before, no matter what i twiddled with) and i swear it's picked up a load of power. i was having so much fun lighting up the tires that i was literally drifting around corners with excitement! it's like a new car - really!

    this is my first z car, so i had no idea what to expect, how it should actually run. it's been a fun adventure because i've been fixing problem after problem and every time i pick up performance that i never knew was even there :}

    gonna go back out to play in the car (why sure, honey - i'd be HAPPY to pick up some vegetables for dinner!!)
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

  31. #31
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Thanks for easing the pain. I just feel bad for providing bum info. Worst that you made a break in the schedule to do the work and then got stuck. If you decide to try again, here's some links for good prices on the 539:

    Amazon has some for $17.15 plus shipping:
    Amazon.com: 1 587 010 539

    Ebay has some for $24.24 shipped:
    New Bosch Fuel Pump Check Valve 1587010539 Volvo OE 1326899 | eBay

    And Rock auto says they have them for $12.60 plus shipping "Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day". Just search by part number 1587010539.

  32. #32
    Registered User rossiz's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-30163
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    323

    Default

    no worries - the job got done so the day was not wasted

    i'm wondering about how your check valve was empty - does it look like it was tampered with? i don't know how the parts could have blown out, and if so i would think that the retainer ring would be stuck in your fuel lines somewhere...
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

  33. #33
    Registered User mjr45's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-21301
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Divide, CO
    Posts
    572

    Default

    rossiz, nice work, I'm going to try your treatment with mine later today. I've also ordered the 539 valve just in case.
    75 280Z almost done
    49 Chevy 3100 p/u next project
    96 Dodge 2500 4X4 tows my 5th wheel

  34. #34
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    One last sorry to have provided bum info and I'll move forward. Just remember that all I wanted to do was help!

    I don't know how my stock check valve got empty, or where the bits went. I've had the fuel pump apart and there wasn't any damage to the internal parts, so I doubt the guts went through the pump. I can tell by the date codes on the fuel lines that my PO had been messing around back there, but I can't come up with any reason that he would have gutted the valve. I'm thinking aliens.

    Here's my original valve. Clean as a whistle:




    I can hear Adam Savage... "Well THERE'S your problem!"

  35. #35
    Registered User rossiz's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-30163
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    323

    Default

    it sure looks like the PO ripped out the retainer - i can see the two bits at 180 degrees from each other. the retainer is a round disc with two areas stamped out, leaving a band across the center - it's pretty delicate. looks like someone grabbed it w/a pair of needle nose pliers and ripped it out. if you file off the crimped lip the remains of the retainer will come out. i can't imagine why they would do that, maybe there was some crap lodged in there and they were trying to remove a "restrictive component" of the fuel system?

    or maybe aliens...
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

  36. #36
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-2169
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    NorthCoast, Ohio
    Age
    60
    Posts
    6,497

    Default

    Hiya Cap'n...

    I'm replacing my fuel pump for safety's sake, and I believe the new one has a check valve, but I'm going to go through this thread later when I have an hour to kill.

    Rossiz-
    I get the same looks and attitude when I go to the dealer for something. If you don't know EXACTLY the part number, and it's not something they usually stock, then you can see they instantly try to brush you off, unless the person knows you. Especially if it's not the same make (Audi parts for your DATSUN!????)
    Drive Responsibly.
    enjoy classic Rock music.

  37. #37
    Registered User mjr45's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-21301
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Divide, CO
    Posts
    572

    Default

    rossiz, just a quick question. Just where did you file down the lip to get the retainer out? On mine the lip looks rolled over on the whole circumference.
    Mike
    75 280Z almost done
    49 Chevy 3100 p/u next project
    96 Dodge 2500 4X4 tows my 5th wheel

  38. #38
    Registered User mjr45's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-21301
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Divide, CO
    Posts
    572

    Default

    I replaced the check valve with the 539 one and because the fuel line from the Audi was to short had to add an extension, also replaced the O rings in the pump and now pressure stays up for about an hour or so after shut down. Also all my stumbling under load went away, engine rev's to 5500 with no issues. Thanks for all the help.
    Mike
    75 280Z almost done
    49 Chevy 3100 p/u next project
    96 Dodge 2500 4X4 tows my 5th wheel

  39. #39
    Registered User rossiz's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-30163
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    323

    Default

    mjr45 - sorry i didn't see your question, been otherwise occupied w/different z issues ;}
    i filed the rolled lip all the way around - took off maybe 1/32" of material is all to get down to the retainer. 5 min. job

    glad you found a solution that's working for you though!
    Geoff
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

  40. #40
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mjr45 View Post
    all my stumbling under load went away, engine rev's to 5500 with no issues.
    That's great news! My car is back together as well, but it's not yet been hot enough here to get a handle on what the hot start behavior is like now that I've done the check valve and the pump work. On the road performance is great though, but that was never the issue. I originally started this looking for hot start gremlins.

    So what happened with the Audi fuel hose? It wasn't long enough to reach from the check valve to the fuel dampener? Mine was actually longer than I needed and I cut excess off the plain end. And that's even counting the strain relief loop like the original design. Yours wasn't long enough to do that?

  41. #41
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-2169
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    NorthCoast, Ohio
    Age
    60
    Posts
    6,497

    Default

    Oh Captain, my caption...

    Could you summarize the whole thing for us? I mean the parts you used. This is the kind of thing you'd see on the AtlanticZ tech collection.

    This ought to be a 'sticky' here or go into the technical section, if we have one. I'm sure there are many that have their own "HSM" for "Homebrew Service Manual."
    Last edited by TomoHawk; 04-24-2014 at 06:35 AM.
    Drive Responsibly.
    enjoy classic Rock music.

  42. #42
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    I used check valve Bosch part number 1 587 010 539 and a flare fitting fuel hose from an Audi A4 or A6.

    Sorry, but I didn't take note of exactly which Audi the hose was from because it looked like they used the same hose. They were all over the place at my junkyard, but maybe that was just me. Thinking you couldn't possibly go wrong, I didn't keep great notes there. Next time I'm at the junkyard, I'll make sure I note some models and years that have suitable hoses.

    I've got the pump back on the car and also took the opportunity to install a G3 between the tank and the pump. My original pump inlet filter screen was gone and I didn't want to send any junk into my newly installed check valve. Here's my install:

  43. #43
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-2169
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    NorthCoast, Ohio
    Age
    60
    Posts
    6,497

    Default

    Thanks. I thought the fuel hose would have a readable part number on it. What's a G3, the paper filter in the cheap transparent plastic can?

    BTW- when I cruise through the JY, I take a small notebook, and write the vehicle's model & row # before I even start digging though the vehicle. Before taking a part off, I record some details about the part, in case the number is rubbed off or something is damaged. I will even record the location of a vehicle if I think it might have something I might want later, and a note about what was interesting about it (like an Audi A6 with fuel hoses that have threaded flare fittings.)

    We need to get a comprehensive compatibility database going! Not just specific items to replace factory parts. I'm sure there's enough in people's note to get a good start on one already.
    Last edited by TomoHawk; 04-25-2014 at 06:39 AM.
    Drive Responsibly.
    enjoy classic Rock music.

  44. #44
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Yes, the G3 (Fram P/N G3) is the plastic low pressure filter on the suction side of the fuel pump. Cheap and ubiquitous. I wanted something transparent so I could monitor for crud coming out of the tank. I've not had a problem that I know of, but I figured I was in that deep, I might as well do it at that same time.

  45. #45
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-26512
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    1,420

    Default

    I tried to order one here at a local Fram dealer and he couldn't order it, only the G2 (5/16") version. I couldn't find it on Fram's European website either. Looks like its only available in the US and on ebay.

    I can order it there, but they want $32 for shipping and I have to pay 21%tax on all that Looks like I will be looking for an alternative or maybe two G2 it parrallel.
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  46. #46
    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-24608
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Wow... Would have never imagined it would be difficult to get a Fram G3. Anywhere!

    How about a Purolator F20118? Web research indicates it's their cross for the Fram G3
    Part Detail Popup

    And as for two G2's in parallel... I believe the internals for all of the similar sized and shaped filters (G2, G3, G12) are all the same. So if you're doing two of them in parallel for throughput, I doubt it's necessary.
    Last edited by Captain Obvious; 04-26-2014 at 05:46 AM.

  47. #47
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-26512
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    1,420

    Default

    I think Ill try the G2. The G3 has been replaced by the G12-1 in 24 feb 2012, but it has a 6mm outlet where the G2 has 8mm.
    FRAM

    I need to do something because my inlet filter is shot and I dont want to damage the pump with gunk from the tank. If the internals are the same it should work the same.
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  48. #48
    Registered User mjr45's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-21301
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Divide, CO
    Posts
    572

    Default

    Captain, sorry for the late reply,I got involved with a furniture finishing project(wife's idea) but the car ran great for 1 day and back to stumbling under load, but that's another story. The Audi fuel line(don't remember which Audi) was to short to reach the damper on the 75 without a major kink in the line, so I just added a 5/16" double barb and about 5" of fuel line to make a loop with no kinks to the damper. The Audi fuel line came from the engine bay if that helps for future reference. Worked out well with no leaks under pressure and pressure stays up for longer than before I did the job. Also just as an FYI, haven't had any hot start issues, but its not been above 70 up here.
    Last edited by mjr45; 04-26-2014 at 06:49 AM.
    75 280Z almost done
    49 Chevy 3100 p/u next project
    96 Dodge 2500 4X4 tows my 5th wheel

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Fuel Line Pressure And Pump Check Valve Issues
    By Captain Obvious in forum Fuel Injection (S30)
    Replies: 36
    Last Post: 06-09-2013, 07:20 PM
  2. emissions fuel check valve
    By zdonka in forum Fuel Injection (S30)
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 05-13-2013, 02:57 PM
  3. fuel pump check valve
    By jazfe in forum Open S30 Z Discussions
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 10-03-2011, 10:38 PM
  4. Fuel Check Valve
    By FastWoman in forum Fuel Injection (S30)
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 10-20-2009, 06:58 PM
  5. check-valve in fuel system?
    By AxtellZ in forum Carburetors (S30)
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 05-31-2002, 10:29 AM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •