My new baby 72 240z

[JGREEZY]

this is my new baby(AND GRAND BABY'S), thanks to my wife, it's my birthday present, came off the trailer just before i had to leave for work tonight. So i still haven't had time to really check it out. I drove it around the block everything so far seems nice and tight for a quick inspection. Overall very happy cant wait to get registered :d.

[olzed]

Very nice.
Similar colour as my 72.

[Bonzi Lon]

Nice wife.

Bonzi Lon

[JGREEZY]

Yeah she's the best I got lucky this time

[Z fan]

Nice Z, looks solid , more info , pictures and details on how the wife got it .

[JGREEZY]

Well I was bored at work overnight internet surfing looking for Z's for sale for ****s & giggles not that I could afford it, so I thought. I mentioned to my wife that I'd seen a few Z's out there. I figured I would plant the seed. So I sent her a couple links not being serious. This one stood from the bunch by far. there were a few RB swaps out there. That would by my dream swap they were all craigs list ads and spending this kind of money I was a little leery buying out of state RB or not. this one was actually from a dealer Gateway Classic Cars - classic cars for sale, muscle cars for sale, street rods, hot rods, mopars, antique cars, vintage cars. then she sup-prized me and said call them see what they're talking about. Now i hate calling, or going to see a car empty handed, that's the first rule. I called anyway I ended up talking him down from 12,995 to 11,500. So she said lets make a deposit and it's on from there. It is pretty solid I got a chance to check it out a little better today, I found a couple bubbles, one set on the drivers door on the bottom and one on the rocker on the other side. but other that everything is SOLID. paint is pretty good the pictures definitely look better. there are a few chips and black over spray you can see up close. but all in all so far I'm completely satisfied. it has a 2.8 and tight 5 speed centerforce clutch, It feels like a stock 2.8 so far. just around the block. it does have Delorto carbs though. which I have no idea how to tune. If any of you guys have any info on tuning these carbs I'm guessing they're pretty much close to webbers. Any way enough rambling let me know what you guys think good or bad

[siteunseen]

I found my horn pad under one of the seats on a car I bought a month ago. I took them out looking for anything illegal, .

Couldn't find anything,

[JGREEZY]

Lol that's exactly where mines at I got a grant steering wheel for it anyway I scored at a car show for 20 bucks needs an adapter though

[JGREEZY]

HELP!!!!! Sun. morning I go out to a show and me and my luck the engine must have over heated and blew my heater hose dumping hot coolant all over the pass floor. I cut the heater hose and connected it to the port coming out of the cylinder head in the back and put some water in and limped home. I've read numerous threads here and on hybridz and from what I can tell the best thing to delete the heater would be to plug the ports on the engine versus what I did. I guess what my ultimate question is what caused it to overheat in the first place? I'm pretty sure my Delorto's need to be tuned and maybe rebuilt. They idle really high also fall flat around 4500 rpm, also noticed fuel dripping from the first one last time. I'm not sure if that has to do with the carb's or if it is internal. the first thing I'll do is change the thermostat and plug the holes. from the mishap on Sun. If anyone else has had similar problems maybe can offer some advice.

[siteunseen]

When my timing is set right it runs cooler, too much advance makes it run hotter. Back it up some and see. I think properly adjusted valves help too. Make sure you have the right spark plugs, NGK BP6ES, gapped .039-.043. Just a couple of ideas, good luck.

Hell, I forgot the most common. Check the resistance of your fan's clutch, it shouldn't spin too easy. A cheap thermostat has a smaller hole than a Nissan one. Get a Nissan 180. Take the cap off and let it get up to heat and see if coolants flowing across the top of the radiator nice and steady, you may need a new water pump. I put a new clutch and pump on both my '72s as well as the Nissan thermostat when I first bought them, cheap insurance. $50. Does yours have a shroud like the 280s or just the smaller piece on top? I'm thinking of putting a complete shroud on my 240 like the 280 has. A lot of folks run twin electric fans too. Lots of possibilities on over heating.

OK scratch about half of what I said, I looked at your pictures. Can you adjust the temp for when the fans cut on?

[JGREEZY]

I think the fan's are wired to stay on. they come on when I turn the engine on and I don't think they turn off to be honest I don't remember looking at the gage before it popped so I may be completely wrong it may not even be a over heating issue but I'm definitely going to change the thermostat anyway and check for overheating I guess I have to take the dash out to check the hoses and connections I hope I'm just panicking and it was more dramatic than damaging

[siteunseen]

You can see the hoses down in the passengers floor board to the left, on the tunnel where they go into the heater valve. https://www.google.com/search?q=240z...w=1280&bih=620
Maybe it was just a weak hose? I've read the aftermarket hoses aren't as good as OE braided ones from Nissan. Somebody could have used straight heater hose and got it pinched making the bend and caused it to burst. Also read you can get the heater core out without removing the dash but it's a PITA. Removing the dash would also be a huge PITA.

[jfa.series1]

Here's a pic to let you know what the hoses look like with everything else out of the way. Agreed that pulling the dash is a PITA and possibly a step too far. With your A/C in the way, you still have a quite a job ahead of you to clear out the blower assembly to get to the hoses. Get the passenger seat out for some room to work on your back. Don't forget to replace the water cock valve while you're in there. Good luck!

[hr369]

What i've read about bypassing the heater core is cylinder #6 runs a little hotter is all. Your emergency
repair should have not caused any severe overheating. In new york you really need a heater in the car.
I wouldn't remove it from the cooling system. I'de get some braided hoses for it from the dealer if they're still avail and pull the dash. I had purchased some replacement non braided hose from a z
parts supplier and they just didn't last. Another possibllity is a defective radiator cap. After
shutting down the engine, pressure builds up in the coolant system and if your radiator cap isn't releasing excessive pressure into the overflow tank, it can blow out hoses too. So check or replace the radiator cap.

Those thermostat bolts look kinda rusty. Be careful pulling them off. I'de hit them with
some wd40 or some rust cutter before trying to loosen them.

HELP!!!!! Sun. morning I go out to a show and me and my luck the engine must have over heated and blew my heater hose dumping hot coolant all over the pass floor. I cut the heater hose and connected it to the port coming out of the cylinder head in the back and put some water in and limped home. I've read numerous threads here and on hybridz and from what I can tell the best thing to delete the heater would be to plug the ports on the engine versus what I did. I guess what my ultimate question is what caused it to overheat in the first place? I'm pretty sure my Delorto's need to be tuned and maybe rebuilt. They idle really high also fall flat around 4500 rpm, also noticed fuel dripping from the first one last time. I'm not sure if that has to do with the carb's or if it is internal. the first thing I'll do is change the thermostat and plug the holes. from the mishap on Sun. If anyone else has had similar problems maybe can offer some advice.

[JGREEZY]

Thanks for all your pics and tips. I'm going to replace all the hoses with steel braided I think depends on the cost diff. it'll probably be cheaper to get all OG from the dealer. Is the water cock valve that fitting that the hoses are attached to in the picture?

[siteunseen]

Yes that's it, a cable from your heater control panel hooks there and opens and closes it. Mine is frozen up and crusty. I just got a new water cock-heater valve yesterday from my Nissan dealer, $45.78 tax and all. Part #27116-E4400. After reading everyone's comments on standard heater hoses I may get the original equipment braided ones. They're out there, price wise for sure, $100 for 2 hoses and the firewall grommets. Maybe I'll use the Gates that I have already?

Mr Arnett, which hoses do you have? I need to do more researching!
It's the middle of the summer and I think I'll run a straight hose from the bottom coolant inlet by the alternator to the metal tube behind #6 that goes to the manifold and drive the tires off it. It doesn't get cold down here until December.

[siteunseen]

it'll probably be cheaper to get all OG from the dealer.

The dealer parts guy has to get out old microfiche and search for part numbers, they don't like to do that or mine don't at least, if it's not on their computer they'll say they can't get it. Searching around the internet for part numbers is what I do then they can punch that in their computers without having to actually work, you get the parts and they'll be happy too. I think he said '84 and older is on the fiche.

[jfa.series1]

Mr Arnett, which hoses do you have? I need to do more researching!
It's the middle of the summer and I think I'll run a straight hose from the bottom coolant inlet by the alternator to the metal tube behind #6 that goes to the manifold and drive the tires off it. It doesn't get cold down here until December.

Cliff - my engine-to-heater hoses are pre-curved versions from Black Dragon, the short curved hose is from Nissan. As to part numbers, you can easily do your own look-ups with the online catalog: Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z Parts Manual. If that doesn't work, contact the folks at Courtesy. David House is a long-time Z guy and very good at running down parts. He might be able to have parts shipped directly to your dealer from the warehouse and save you shipping costs. Have your VIN and build-date handy for them.
Jim

[siteunseen]

Black Dragon! Look at this JGREEZY, Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto

[JGREEZY]

I'm thinking about getting this hose kit from Jegs Spectre 7720 Spectre Magna-Pak Radiator Hose Kits - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS maybe an aftermarket heater too, are those the right sizes or is that GM stuff. I'm pretty sure its all universal size

[siteunseen]

I'm gonna say that stuff would be hard to bend enough to hook to the heater valve. Mine has some off the shelf lines on it now and they're pinched off from the sharp bends. They need to be pre-formed or bent. The big ones for the top and bottom radiator hoses would be super nice! I'd like to have those too.

[JGREEZY]

yeah they also have some black nylon braided hoses that'll probably be easier to cut and Bend I'm going to check with my speed shop that's close to me to see what they have

[bartsscooterservice]

Overheating could be a block of flow somewhere in the system, or the radiator isn't cooling enough, or there is air in the system..

I can see from above interior pictures the hoses used for the interior heater core are wrong and way to long. Check both the valve for leaking and the heater core. I've been there myself and have taken it out, without removing the dash. It's a few hours work. The picture jfa.series1 posted above is how it should be connected

[bartsscooterservice]

Thanks for all your pics and tips. I'm going to replace all the hoses with steel braided I think depends on the cost diff. it'll probably be cheaper to get all OG from the dealer. Is the water cock valve that fitting that the hoses are attached to in the picture?

OEM style radiator hoses would be enough, stail braided isn't really necessary.

[bartsscooterservice]

I'm pretty sure my Delorto's need to be tuned and maybe rebuilt. They idle really high also fall flat around 4500 rpm, also noticed fuel dripping from the first one last time. I'm not sure if that has to do with the carb's or if it is internal. the first thing I'll do is change the thermostat and plug the holes. from the mishap on Sun. If anyone else has had similar problems maybe can offer some advice.

If it had been standing still for quite a while with fuel in the carbs, it could be overflowing, you could try cleaning the carbs.

[JGREEZY]

Yeah the carbs were gonna be the first on my list before the hoses busted. I'm kind of intimidated by it though. with my lack of experience with them. I'll just have to get the rebuild kit and a book and dive in. not too many shops in my area that are experienced with them. and I think I'll get a couple oem hoses and a new heater valve, and a thermostat and call it a day. Much easier on the wallet

[JGREEZY]

Do I have to remove the ac or just the blower?

[siteunseen]

I'm hoping I can use a stubby screwdriver and a mirror to get to mine.

[jfa.series1]

Do I have to remove the ac or just the blower?

This is what you have to deal with AFTER you get the A/C components out of the way. The squirrel-cage housing pretty well blocks all access to the hose clamps, hoses, and water cock. The housing is bolted to the firewall in at least two places as I recall. As to replacement radiator and heater hoses, stick with pre-bent versions and avoid collapses that will restrict coolant flow. Check out RockAuto for your radiator hoses - excellent values!

[siteunseen]

Well damn! I may be without heat. I don't want to remove all that for a long time, when I restore it right, 10 years or so. Those hoses Bart's talking about are your A/C lines, they come in above the frame rail under the battery on my firewall.

Here's my crusty valve and pinched hose,

[bartsscooterservice]

Ah those are the AC lines ok ! I was confused on that. We don't use much AC here..

[JGREEZY]

Found the culprit first I removed the seat then I remove the glove box then drop the AC and the hamster cage then I can see the small hose attached to the heater control valve busted i'm going to change the Heater control valve and the hoses and I should be good

[JGREEZY]

Does anyone know the part numbers for the heater hoses I need the heater hose core inlet, and the heater hose inlet i'm going to try and go to the dealer tomorrow and see if I can get it over-the-counter

[jfa.series1]

In the "Teach a man to fish" theme: here's the link to the online parts catalog for the P/N's you need now and in the future.

Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z Parts Manual

[siteunseen]

Looks like the one that busted is #10, Datsun 240Z Car Heater (To Jul.-'73)

The replacement # is B7118 instead of 27118, according to online nissan parts stores

Those worm gear clamps aren't original, somebody's been down that road already.

[JGREEZY]

Now that I've got everything out of The way. I thought about it I'm not driving in the winter time. So I think I'm going to rip all that stuff out and plug it up. See how it cools

[siteunseen]

Me too. I'm gonna try and shop vac the heater core dry. I'll put my new heater valve on the shelf with all the other parts I'm hording.