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Thread: HELP: diff removal with drivshaft?

  1. #1
    Slowly getting there... drunkenmaster's Avatar
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    Default HELP: diff removal with drivshaft?

    Is it possible to pull the diff out with driveshaft still atattched?

    I have undone the diff mounts, halfshafts etc etc and the only thing holding the diff to the car is the drive shaft.

    Now the 4 nuts at the driveshaft/diff flange are particularly seized and not easy to get leverage on so I am wondering if it is easier to disconnect it at the gearbox end. I pulled the diff backwards to see and the shaft slipped back from the gearbox about 2" but thats about it, doesnt want to go any further and is still fixed.

    My other car i dismantled didnt have a driveshaft so this is new to me, any pointers on what to do will be really appreciated.

    I hope to get it done tomorrow as i got rained out today, so any replies in the next hours will be great.
    James

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11123

  2. #2
    Registered User mdbrandy's Avatar
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    Every Z driveshaft I've removed, from 240's and 280's has just slid out of the transmission. No bolted or clipped connection or anything. Sounds like as you are pulling the shaft out of the tranny, you're pulling down on the back end of the shaft and binding the splined shaft inside the transmission. You have to pull it straight out, and it has something like 4 inches of slip-in splined shaft on the transmission end of the driveshaft. That's about all I can think of that would keep it from coming out.

    Good luck.
    Mark Brandyberry
    1970 240Z (11/69) HLS30 00215
    1978 280Z (05/78) HLS30 466356
    IZCC #802 & CZC#4028

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    Mark's right, it is probably just binding up in the splines of the slip yoke. You might need an extra set of hands to do it, but you'll need to keep the diff up high enough to keep the shaft fairly straight as you pull it out. There's very little play in those splines.
    "If it weren't for fools, the rest of us could not succeed." Mark Twain.

  4. #4
    Instant Human, ADD Coffee Z Kid's Avatar
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    Every Z I have pulled apart (only three so far, but I am trying for more) I have removed the entire back and as a single unit. I undo the mounts, support the diff and then lower the whole lot struts, halfshafts and driveshafts. I find it much much easier to disassemble when its on the ground and I am the right way up. So as long as you can get enough room to slide the diff back a few inches it shouldnt be a problem.

    The tightness may be that the diff is dropping down too far and causing it to bind. If all else fails use a bigger hammer.

    Just out of curiosity what is happening to Cuongs old car? Sounds like some serious surgery going on there .
    All the best Chris
    I can only please one person per day,
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    And tomorrow is not looking good either.

  5. #5
    Registered User Royce's Avatar
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    It is probably binding, like everyone has said before me. The shaft comes out eash when it is pulled out straight. But when you are fighting with a diff attached and the exhaust in the way it is easy for it to shift and then it will suddenly not want to go further. Also, the early style 5-speeds, which would have been available in '70 - '71 AU 240Zs, did have a bolt on yoke at the front of the drive shaft. But this should be obvious! It would look the same as how the half shaft yokes mount on either side of the diff.

    Another warning, if you take out the drive shaft make sure you keep the back end of the car higher than the front. If it is level or the front is higher you will empty much of the trans fluid on the floor!

    Have fun!
    Royce
    '71 240 series II, Rebello L28/E88, ZX 5-speed, 3.9 R200, Tokico springs/struts(lowered 1.5"), short steering knuckles, 15x7 Revolution Wheels, 205/60 tires
    '67.5 Sports 1600

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    HS30-00352, HS30-101370 240znz's Avatar
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    Just to add on from Royce....

    Once you get the driveshaft out, but quick and shove a clean rag up the hole or you will get gearbox oil everywhere. But as you are a wise Zed owner, you would have probably drained the oil as you were going to replace it with new oil once you've finshed......right????

    If it is being a pain......take it off at the diff end and whack it with a rubber hammer...that might break the seal a bit and help it come out.

    My 2cents
    Zed not Zee

    HS30-00352 still being rebuilt (year 6)
    HS30-101370 chopped in half

    CZCC #1608

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    Slowly getting there... drunkenmaster's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice guys, all makes sense and i will give it a go today. I think the problem is i am holding the diff too low and the half shafts are interferring with the control arms when trying to pull it back, but i will loosen them so they hang downward.
    James

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11123

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    Slowly getting there... drunkenmaster's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Z Kid
    Just out of curiosity what is happening to Cuongs old car? Sounds like some serious surgery going on there .
    All the best Chris
    It has the full interior removed, and now as you can tell im starting on the underside. After that its off to the sandblasters as you couldnt pay me enough to strip another underbody of deadener and undercoat. I am also coordinating the complete build of an engine in New Zealand for the car, more info when it arrives.

    Could anyone from Rotorua or close by send me a PM while im on that topic.
    James

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11123

  9. #9
    Slowly getting there... drunkenmaster's Avatar
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    Originally posted by 240znz


    Once you get the driveshaft out, but quick and shove a clean rag up the hole or you will get gearbox oil everywhere. But as you are a wise Zed owner, you would have probably drained the oil as you were going to replace it with new oil once you've finshed......right????

    My 2cents
    Not really as neither the driveshaft nor the gearbox will ever see the car again once removed
    James

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11123

  10. #10
    Registered User zr240's Avatar
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    why are you getting the engine built in NZ?

    I thought it would be cheaper and better to get done locally.


    Ash
    Ashley
    73 240Z Race car (nearly finished)
    71 240Z road car (nearly started!)

  11. #11
    Slowly getting there... drunkenmaster's Avatar
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    The motor itself is cheaper there than here and this place specialises in this type of motor and have a 10.2 second example as their workshop car.

    I am still probably spending more than i should but i have been swaying between motors for close to a year and its time to justbite the bullet and do it. I will have a chat to you about it this week when i pick up the hatch, i will give you a ring first.
    James

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11123

  12. #12
    Slowly getting there... drunkenmaster's Avatar
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    Jacked the diff back up today for the 100th time and this time the drive shaft just popped off the gearbox almost by itself.

    Thanks guys.
    James

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11123

  13. #13
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    Talking Hey James!

    I know of someone in melbourne who can build good motors let me know what your thinking of doing and I'll see if I can help.

  14. #14
    Z Car Driver MicksZ's Avatar
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    Hey Gav, Who builds the engines you know..?
    Life is too short not to own a zed...

    1973 240Z - HL30 103488

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