Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: Replacing S30 Rear Wheel Bearings

  1. #1
    Member
    Member ID
    CZCC-791
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Pleasanton, CA USA
    Posts
    7,093

    Exclamation Replacing S30 Rear Wheel Bearings

    Here is a great link to a "HOW TO" pictorial of replacing Rear Wheel Bearings on an S30. It has a lot of pictures so it will take a bit of time to fully load, but it looks to be a very good resource. I saved it to my hard drive in case it disappears from the Net before I get around to doing this job.

    If anyone who is experienced with doing this job cares to comment on the tutorial, those of us who haven't done it will appreciate your "constructive comments".

    Replacing S30 Rear Wheel Bearings

  2. #2
    Registered User panchovisa's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-5428
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eagan,MN
    Posts
    493

    Default

    Carl, looks pretty complete to me (although some of the images didn't appear). I pulled four rear stub axels apart OFF the car. I don't recommend that! I had struts locked down in huge machinist vise and had to lag screw the workbench to garage wall studs to keep from tipping workbench over while I broke nut loose!!!!

    I will be re-installing soon (after struts are welded for short shocks, coil overs, etc.) probably off the car again (will finish torque ON the car though).
    If you want it done right then do it yourself.

  3. #3
    Member
    Member ID
    CZCC-791
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Pleasanton, CA USA
    Posts
    7,093

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by panchovisa
    Carl, looks pretty complete to me (although some of the images didn't appear). I pulled four rear stub axels apart OFF the car. I don't recommend that! I had struts locked down in huge machinist vise and had to lag screw the workbench to garage wall studs to keep from tipping workbench over while I broke nut loose!!!!

    I will be re-installing soon (after struts are welded for short shocks, coil overs, etc.) probably off the car again (will finish torque ON the car though).
    Hi Pancho

    On the pics that didn't appear, did the little box with the red X appear? If so, right click your mouse and select "Show Picture". That happened to me, there are so many pictures on the page that the loading "timed out" and the pics stopped loading. I was able to get them all to appear using this method. That was one reason I saved it to my hard drive, so I wouldn't have to deal with that again.

    I'm glad that you mentioned the problems with doing this off of the car. I hate working on stuff like this on the car and would have tried to do it like you did. Guess this is better done as shown.

    Carl

  4. #4
    Registered User gramercyjam's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-3648
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Done it many times. It all looks OK but looks a little over the top for me. I find the hardest part is removing the axle nuts the first time. I won't share my method here, as it is considered dangerous by some, but it does include the use of a floor jack and a very long breaker bar to break them loose.

    I have never found heating and cooling parts necessary. I use a 3 jaw puller to remove bearings stuck on the axel, and various pipes and fittings as drifts for installing them. just use a cone aparratus available at any auto parts store that hooks up to the grease gun to lube bearings.
    --John B
    '73 FP 240Z

  5. #5
    Formerly Datto-Zed Murph's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-3769
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Age
    38
    Posts
    979

    Default

    I'll be doing this job for the first time, within the next week. Fingers crossed!

    I'll post up any comments when I'm done.

  6. #6
    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7622
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    bloomington IN
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,288

    Default rear wheel bearing end play

    I revived this thread because it had some good pics and tutorial for replacing the rear bearings. My set up on my s-30 was different in that I had a copper shim washer that went between the companion flange and the inner bearing. I had one on both sides. After installing the bearings and installing the nuts(not quite the 200ft pds yet,which might be the problem), I have about .008 end paly at the housing. The play is when I pull and push directly on the the wheel flange. Is this too much? Will the additional torque take out a few thousands. I torqued the nut as hard as i could with a 1/2" drive but I bet I am still 50+ pounds short of 200.
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

  7. #7
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-5121
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    2,362

    Default

    The copper washer is actually supposed to go under the nut, not where the bearings go. It was installed for just a few years to reduce noise. Details here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101811
    Jon

  8. #8
    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7622
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    bloomington IN
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,288

    Default

    Jon,
    According to the thread you referenced me to the copper spacer goes on top of the bearing ,under the companion flange-not under the nut. I really appreciate the reference though, it answers why it was there and where it should be. I still worry about the end play since I didn't check what it was before i did the job. I need to mount a wheel on there and try to find bearing play I guess.
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

  9. #9
    RedNeckZ redneckz II's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-6034
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Fayetteville, NC
    Age
    65
    Posts
    52

    Cool Rear Wheel Bearing replacement info

    I have had to do this twice. My daugther did it to my 280Z on a winter day in Colorado the first time (ice slide into curb after hours). I, ended up taking the half-shaft off of the end of the hub. Used a 3/4" breaker bar and a breaker bar pipe over the handle. Left the tires on and set the car back on the ground after removing the the one end of the half-shaft. Then set the hand brake and put the car in gear. We, then used the 3/4" breaker bar and socket w/pipe to break the bolt lose. Had to stand on the handle to break it free. Used a slide hammer to pull the rest of it out of the hub. Took the axle to a truck repair place and had them remove the outer bearing by pressing it off and putting on a new one. Replaced the grease in the bearing race area before I put the axles back in. Then we put the inner bearing and grease seal on and started torqueing it down. You need to replace the old locking nut with a new locking nut. I am starting to work on my V-8 Z and will be converting to the 5-lug pattern. So I will be ordering new axles from MM to go in it. Good Luck, Rich.

  10. #10
    Registered User 240Z-Fan's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1491
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Lost in the Midwest...but California dreaming
    Posts
    139

    Default Nut Availability?

    I discovered my 73 Z needs new rear bearings. The local parts places don't seem to have a listing for the spindle nut.

    1) Is the nut on the rear spindle the same as on the front?

    or

    2) Is this something I can buy if I know the size and thread?

    or

    3) does anyone have a Nissan Part number?


    I could order this from courtesy Nissan but I would like to have it sooner than later.

    Many thanks,

    Al

  11. #11
    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-8596
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon, USA
    Age
    63
    Posts
    8,465

    Default

    1.) No.

    2.) Maybe, if you can find a self-locking nut in this size, but it also needs to be fairly low profile, so probably not.

    3.) 43262-21000 for 240/260/280Z. The 280ZX nut does not require staking down (normal self-locking) and is 43262-W1200
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

  12. #12
    Registered User 240Z-Fan's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1491
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Lost in the Midwest...but California dreaming
    Posts
    139

    Default

    Thanks Arne.

    Assuming no major hiccups, I am guessing this is a 2-3 hour job per axle.

    (I have a press, 250 ft-lb torque wrench, slide hammer)

    Does this sound right?

    I ask because I want to fix the car before Saturday.

    Al

  13. #13
    Mid-life Crisis Sailor Bob's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-9729
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Newfoundland, Canada
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,069

    Default

    I used the described tutrial and found it to be pretty good. I had some unique problems and also found the french safe heating and cooling concept ineffective (big hammer did the trick) - might work for you though.
    I'm not a mechanical guy so it very helpful for me along with several other tips he offers - check out the shifter bushing tip.
    Cali 4/77
    NA 9/72
    FA 90 300TT
    C220 Mercedes 96 (DD)

  14. #14
    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7641
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    NS
    Posts
    4,085

    Default Enjoy



    Reference:

    NOS Nissan Part Numbers for rear wheel bearings and assembly

    inner rear wheel bearing: 43215-E4100 (Nissan part #)
    outer rear wheel bearing (with built in seal) 43210-E4100 (Nissan part #)
    Inner rear wheel bearing seal: 43232-E4100
    Stub Axle Nuts (280ZX type w/o peen: 43262-W1200

    SFK Bearing Numbers:
    Outer: GRW-117
    Inner: GRW-116

    Tech Tip Reference: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/r...ngs/index.html
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	rearhub.gif 
Views:	279 
Size:	72.1 KB 
ID:	39628  

  15. #15
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-3609
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Clearwater,Florida USA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    4,424

    Default

    Note Also:
    The "how to" originally Posted - is done on a 260/280 rear axle.

    If you are doing a 240Z - there are washers{shims} on each end of the "spacer" between the bearings.
    Part Number 43211-N3400 which are NLA.

    These washers {shims} "MAY" have been eliminated in production even before 8/73. You'll know when you take the assembly apart. If they are present - keep the washers and spacers together as a set, for each axle.

    FWIW,
    Carl B.

  16. #16
    Registered User jeanp's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-26639
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Magog, Quebec, Canada
    Age
    57
    Posts
    68

    Default

    Did remove my axles following these tips it
    was a relatively easy job the tricky thing was pushing out the axles but heat is the solution
    heat the housing and the bearing and axle will come out easy.

    I know my car is 71 240Z but i never had a problem with stuck or seezed nuts.

    I did no had any slide Hammer but i did not need to save the existing axles as i am installing
    Chequered flag Axles and companion flange so i can put Z31 CV joint half shalft so i just punched it out by the end of the axle.

    Thank`s for those tips

  17. #17
    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-20168
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    954

    Default

    CONGRATULATIONS on reviving a zombie thread! I might have to do this myself, rear wheels aint rolling so well anymore...
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

  18. #18
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-3609
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Clearwater,Florida USA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    4,424

    Default

    We have a speciality shop here, well actually several in the area - I used them to press out axles and check the bearing races etc. It only took them about 10 minutes - and cost me $20.00. Money well worth the time saved and hassles avoided. They have the equipment to quickly, easily and safely do the work.

    Just a thought.
    Carl B.

  19. #19
    HLS30A 17574 djwarner's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-27817
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Central FLorida
    Posts
    405

    Default

    Carl,

    Could you PM me with the name of the specialty shop. I have a rear bearing that starts to whine once it gets fully warmed up.
    1971 240Z HLS30A 17574 L24-021025

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •