Bushing refresh Project

[TomoHawk]

My car is getting a new set of bushings (Springs & dampers too)- Rear suspension first, then the front. When I get to the front suspension, I might even get the engine out to refresh that too.

I have everything I think I will need but the strut insulators and the diff mounts. I have the mustache bar bushings. The strut insulators are back-ordered and 'might' be in stock in a few months, but I think I can get the diff mount (stock style, but urethane is OK) very soon. The question I have right now is can I hold off until Spring and do just that one then.

The "good" news is that I tried the screws holding the hard lines under the car, and from all the undercoating there, the screws turned easily and so weren't rusted in solid

thxZ

[boyblunda]

Hi Tomohawk

Did a suspension renovation a little while ago and was one of the most worthwhile things I did for my Zed.

Just a query or two on your project. First, what sort of bushings are you looking at putting into your car? Second, given that it looks like you are going for a major refurbish in this department are sway bars a consideration for you in this effort? Finally, does this lead into a further stage of refurbishment or is this just what you feel needs doing for now.

Would like to hear some more detail about what components you are intending to use.

All the best with this new chapter for your Zed.

Regards
Dave

[TomoHawk]

Hi Dave,
I already have the Energy Suspension urethane "Master Kit" of bushings for the 280Z. It has most everything but the strut insulators, the (strut bearings for the front struts) and front diff mount.

Both front & rear suspensions will also be getting new coil springs & dampers.

I plan on using all the urethane bushings in the kit for the rear suspension, and all but the T/C rod bushings for the front suspension. I'll get rubber bushings for the T/C rod later. I don't know if there is a stock-style urethane unit for the diff, and a stock rubber type is on back-order at most places I tried, so I will have to us the original one (maybe it's not that bad off) until I can get a new one, and install it next Spring, but I thought I could get it now while the whole rear end is out.

[cygnusx1]

Just a reminder...If you do go with poly T/C rod bushings, only use the forward facing bushing in poly. Use stock rubber ones on the backside of the T/C bucket. This keeps from over-stressing the T/C rod when it moves up and down with the suspension.

[TomoHawk]

I"ll just use urethane and/or rubber bushings...

http://www.differencebetween.net/obj...-polyurethane/

[cygnusx1]

The ES bushing kit is Polyurethane. The bushings are very stiff and can harm the T/C rod if used on both sides (front and back) of the T/C bucket. Bad things happen when the T/C rod cracks.

[Powderkeg]

Tomohawk,

There is also the option of a ball & socket Rod kit from Black Dragon pg 40 under "Performance Suspension" listed as Tension / Compression (T-C) Rod Kit.

MSA also sells the same thing.

I replaced my stock TC Bushings on my 76 280Z with this set-up and it works great. All of my driving is street.

Dave Ruiz

[TomoHawk]

I'm just going to stay with a stock-type setup for the bushings. The biggest thing that I am concerned about is that the body guys don't have to guess at how to install the replacements, because there isn't much information on that.

[cozye]

I have the TC rod kit, I've heard that it offers a nice improvement in bump steer issues over the standard rubber bushings. I still have the poly bushings and could get some rubber ones if I want to go back. FWIW, the TC rod bushings to replace on the car would be a 20 minute job, so you can always go back.

my rear strut insulators were in perfect shape. I'd start the job and see if you can get by with what you have. The front strut insulator bearings are available at the local parts store, again, mine were in perfect shape I just regreased and used the stock ones.

The front differential mount is very easy to change at a later date as well. Mine was in good shape and hadn't settled at all so I re used it too.

Sounds like you've got plenty of parts to start the job. I wouldn't wait for the backordered stuff.

[TomoHawk]

Hi cozye,

I am going to get the front insulator bearings because they are inexpensive and the local store can get them. Hopefully, from the condition of most things under the car, the strut insulators will be fine for a while, as they are $200 each and not easy to get, new. It's more likely the springs and shocks are pooped out anyway.

In any case of the condition of things, I'm starting in the back and working forward, with the engine & engine bay last.

[bavarian06]

In terms of priority, what bushings should I swap out first?

I believe I have the complete poly MSA kit and looking to get some of the bushing replaced (trying to tackle it according to importance/definite have-to-do/bang-for-the-buck-performance advantage).

My local shop said they could do the complete front (steering rack included) for $200 in labor. They want $300 for the rear (including the mustache bar mounts) since the lower rear A arm bolts are a pain the butt. Is that reasonable?

I was thinking of doing the fronts by myself when I install new springs/shocks. Does the front components require pressing some of the bushings in place? If that is the case, that rules out the DIY. $200 is not a whole lot of $$$ if it isnt really difficult and time consuming to do.

[TomoHawk]

I am working from the back to the front, because the worn bushings are causing the tires to wear fast, and some other stuff.

If you are going to to the rear bushings, you should probably also get some spindle pins, etc., because they are usually rusted in and have to be cut to be removed.

For some detailed write-ups, go here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm

[bavarian06]

I am working from the back to the front, because the worn bushings are causing the tires to wear fast, and some other stuff.

If you are going to to the rear bushings, you should probably also get some spindle pins, etc., because they are usually rusted in and have to be cut to be removed.

For some detailed write-ups, go here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm

thanks for the link. i didnt know it was a cartridge setup for the shocks. its not necessary to remove the entire hub/rotor assembly is it? looks like a pain if that is the case.

[bavarian06]

some form of pressing is involved. guess that answers it, i rather spend the $200 to get it done.

[bpilati]

Just a reminder...If you do go with poly T/C rod bushings, only use the forward facing bushing in poly. Use stock rubber ones on the backside of the T/C bucket. This keeps from over-stressing the T/C rod when it moves up and down with the suspension.

I used all poly on mine and haven't had any problems.

[MEZZZ]

I used poly all the way around on mine last fall. I did do the ball and socket setup on the TC rods, using new rubber stock bushings on the front and poly on the rear. Then I tackled the back and in my opinion, it was harder. I pulled everything out (both front and rear) cleaned, painted and put back together with new struts, springs, brakes, R/T mount, bearings, tie rods, ball joints, etc.
I am a novice at best, working on and off the project, it took me a couple months.
$200 sounds reasonable to me, at that rate if you paid me, I would have made about $1 an hour

[TomoHawk]

Do you make house calls?