You can always relocate a wheel weight, for nostalgic purposes.
Are these steering wheels not supposed to shake violently? The ones I had in my earlier days would shake cigarettes out of my hand. Those poly bushings are great.
You can always relocate a wheel weight, for nostalgic purposes.
A finger ring shaped and painted like a burning cigarette would be cool for those trying to quit, uhumm Mr. Grant.
The entire steering system has to be well within Factory Spec. - anything out of spec. will cause the "shakes". Bad shocks, worn steering components, bad ball joints, tension/compression rod bushings that are shot and of course wheels/tires out of round and/or out of balance. Once the "shakes" start it puts additional wear/stress on everything else in the system. So by the time someone addresses the original problem - there are usually additional items that need attention.
If your Z has the "shakes" - just rebuild everything at the same time and be done with it.
FWIW,
Carl B.
No, no I've rebuilt everything and it doesn't shake which is a surprise to me because my old ones were terrible shakers. Think of Elvis Presley controlling my steering on the old ones and Juan Pablo Montoya on this one I've got now.
So when are we going to get some pics? Sounds like your car is coming along nicely.
EDIT: Ignore this post. I just found your new thread with the pics.
Last edited by Jeff G 78; 08-18-2012 at 03:15 PM.
Jeff
Northville, Michigan
IZCC #1285
'78 280 10:1 CR, Arizona Z Car header, urethane bushings, Tokico springs, Illumina struts, Panasports w/Hankook R-S2 225/50R16 tires, Maxima 105 amp alternator
http://www.classiczcars.com/photopos...00&ppuser=7975
'74 260Z BRE look-alike crap can for Optima Batteries ChumpCar World Series Racing racing
https://www.facebook.com/Jeff.Grauer
Mine had a severe shake at about 35 to 40 mph for quite some time. It was found the ny-lock nut, under the black cap, on the shock rod had decided to un-lock and un-thread itself. Half of the shock rod was gone and the 'D' shaped hole in the insulator was wobbled to a large round hole. Both replaced, no problem, however I do take the caps off now & then just to check the ny-lock nuts.
Hang in there, you can do it, I did.
Bonzi Lon
1973 HLS30-168500
1968 SPL311-18100
1969 HLS30-000110 SOLD Shipped to Dubai UAE
CZCC#11300
Ones and Zeros
"We drive only blue cars." Dishwalla
Bonzi Lon I'm glad to hear from you as I have a question. You're the only one I know of that has red kote in their tank. I'm kinda worried about the ethanol in pump gas now days. Is it going to affect our coating? I plan on changing my G3 filter every oil change, they're inexpensive thank goodness. What do you think?
I may have posted that 'red kote' is popular with the farmers and ranchers around here, however I used 2 kits of 'KREEM' to do my tank. After it was done, many on the forums denounced the stuff, as coming off in time. The tank was done in the summer of 06 and didn't see fuel until spring of 08, more than enough cure time. I think that is as key as prep to having a good job done. The first year with 3K miles, the fuel filter was slightly brown, changed out and has been clear ever since, but still replace every year. Last year I was going to drop the tank for a fume leak and to look inside, but it was repaired without dropping it. Wonder if a camera on a snake could take a peek?![]()
Bonzi Lon
1973 HLS30-168500
1968 SPL311-18100
1969 HLS30-000110 SOLD Shipped to Dubai UAE
CZCC#11300
Ones and Zeros
"We drive only blue cars." Dishwalla
Well that explains my worries. Brand new G3 from tank to pump, clear glass filter right before the fuel rail and they were brown as crap until a few minutes of running. Scared me! But they're looking a lot clearer now after sitting for awhile. Thank you Bonzi Lon.
I figured it was some dissolved residue in the lines.
Bonzi Lon
1973 HLS30-168500
1968 SPL311-18100
1969 HLS30-000110 SOLD Shipped to Dubai UAE
CZCC#11300
Ones and Zeros
"We drive only blue cars." Dishwalla
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