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Thread: fuel lines/ brake lines

  1. #1
    Registered User Frankensteinz2's Avatar
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    Default fuel lines/ brake lines

    Hey guys,

    First of all i just wanted to thank everybody for the help i have received on this site, without it i don't think i would have gotten any where on my car.

    I went to move my fuel lines yesterday for some welding and realized that they are very rusted and old, so are my brake lines. I am looking to remove all the hard lines and replace them with new. My first question is are my brake lines and fuel lines the same type of material can i get tubes that will work for both? Also for those of you that have done this can i get some pointers on what to look out for as it looks to be a pretty indepth job? Finally where can i get these lines, I saw the brake lines on ebay for 200, however i can't find anything on parts to redo the fuel lines?

    Let me know

    Frankie

  2. #2
    Known Zitus carrier! hls30.com's Avatar
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    A couple of companies sell prebent and DIY replacements for both
    classictube for one-theirs are stainless, and so are the fittings.
    http://www.classictube.com/products_clubflyer.asp
    Will
    A Z is beautiful from any angle, I just happen to prefer to view from the drivers' seat!

  3. #3
    Registered User dkd021's Avatar
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    I bought my brake lines from classictube.com for about $225. They weren't perfect, but once I think back, they were acceptable for what they were. If your lines are in the condition that I perceive from your remarks, you'd probably be better off replacing them. I've done it & for me, it was not as hard as it was frustrating even though I had the motor, transmission, & driveshaft out.

    So, here's my advice based only on "my" experience. I'd get some penetrating spray on the bolts that hold the brackets to the body & let it sit. I don't remember if they're 7 or 8mm heads, but I'd lube them up well because they're small in girth & will twist on you if you're not careful.

    Once those are removed, be VERY careful removing the rubber insulators. Take your time & do your best not to tear them because they're probably going to be dry & brittle. Once I got mine out, I soaked them in some engine stop leak for a couple of days & they came out pliable for reuse.

    Tag everything. Take pictures of everything. It gets confusing when you're not sure. Once I had my parts car in the driveway as a reference, THAT'S when everything "fell into place" for me. So document everything. Heck, use a video camera too.

    Since my motor, transmission, driveshaft were out, I loosened the rear swaybar bolts from the rear diff. This gave me a little more play to get the sharply bent lines back to the tank. We tried starting from the front, but eventually found it best (in my case) to start from the back. We used popsicle sticks to twist the lines & get them to fit into their bracket insulator slot. They'll tend to get bound, so be patient, & install the top line first then working your way down.

    If you're going to try it with the everything still in the car, you're a braver man than I am. I'm not sure I could've done it that way.

  4. #4
    HS30-00352, HS30-101370 240znz's Avatar
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    Get yourself a couple of benders, flare end tool and go for it. The key is to carefully remove the old lines so that you have a pattern to work to. The rubber insulators clean up OK as do the 4mm clamp fasteners. Simply clean & wire wheel the clamps and fasteners prior to dropping to the platers. Peanuts to get replated.

    Just make sure you practice bends and flares prior. The hardest part is the tight curve of the fuel and return line as it exits the tunnel and onto the frame rail. Just bend that bit first.
    Zed not Zee

    HS30-00352 still being rebuilt (year 6)
    HS30-101370 chopped in half

    CZCC #1608

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    Registered User Frankensteinz2's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I think im gonna take the plunge while i have the tranny and engine out. Ill check out the parts between the 2 distributors and see whats good.

    Wish me luck

    Frankie

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    HLS30-079101 Zak's Z's Avatar
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    Frankie,

    Im in the same boat as you and I called ClassicTube in NY and they also have the 2 fuel lines. I think he said he'd give me them for $100 each if i bought everything. Im going to try and bend them myself first. I bought a 'kit' on ebay that has all the lines with flares and nuts. You just have to bend them and connect 2 to make the big line to the rear. It was only about $30.00 so If I screw that up I'll buy the classictubes lines and make a trip to Buffalo.

    Z
    Zak

    HLS30-79101
    Work in progress.

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    Default fuel lines and brake

    i bought brake lines 6ft pcs at napa auto 5/6,1/4 ,3/16 connected them and bent them they came out great.aslo bought rubber hoses to fit each size ti the gas tank. thank carl h

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    Registered User Walter Moore's Avatar
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    Be very careful bending the 5/16" line, it will kink on you almost instantly. For that size at least I recommend getting a two hand professional style bender if possible.

    We, my son and I, used a generic open style bending tool on all of the lines, but to bend the big stuff we had to lay the tube on a table to back it up and keep it from kinking.
    '71 240Z, Because any fool can drive fast in a straight line.

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    Known Zitus carrier! hls30.com's Avatar
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    Fill any tube with fine sand, close the ends tightly, and securely, and bend away-the uncompressable contents will not allow the volume of the tube to change, and thereby keep it from crimping-though bending it does take more effort.
    Will
    A Z is beautiful from any angle, I just happen to prefer to view from the drivers' seat!

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    Registered User Frankensteinz2's Avatar
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    Zak, i bought my tubing from fedhill brake lines. I saw another post about them and thought i would try them out. I bought 50 feet of the 5/16, i figure i could use it for everything but the fuel hose. Then i bought 5/8 in 12 feet for the fuel line itself. I was planning on using the old nuts, because i heard they are difficult to find. If not once i get them off i will match them at the hardware and then just order them. I still need to get a bender though thanks for the advice, something to chew on once i go shopping for one. I like the filling with sand idea. I will post an update once i get them installed. Lets hope they don't look like @#!% when im done. I am in the middle of getting the floors done, so figured its the best time to do the lines. However this is so much at once i think im going a little stir crazy.

    But i aint givin up....

    Frankie

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    Good luck with those damn double-flares on the brake lines.
    -Bo

    1972 240z - Not original and still not done.
    "Something wicked this way comes...."

  12. #12
    Registered User GILDIA's Avatar
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    Frankie I am just about to do the same thing, I have watch some videos on youtube explaining about the doubleflare and bending. do you know if the diameter for the brake lines is 5/16?.

    these video are very clear and it doesn't look very complicated, the hard thing to do is try to fit the whole thing back together.


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Im2N...e=channel_page
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXkRQ...e=channel_page
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkiG8CTZ5Po

    Regards
    ---------------------------
    72 240z Mexico city
    Pertronix Ignitor + Flame Thrower Coil

  13. #13
    Registered User JohnnyO's Avatar
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    I love the beer sitting on the table in the last video. Garage warrior!

  14. #14
    Registered User GILDIA's Avatar
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    Does anybody know the diameter on the brake lines? Can I use stainless steel or do I need a special marterial? I plan to do it in Dec or Jan, but since I live down in Mexico its harder to get all the things. I still have to order the tube cutter, the tube bender and the kit for the double flare

    Can you guys help me out in this predicament
    ---------------------------
    72 240z Mexico city
    Pertronix Ignitor + Flame Thrower Coil

  15. #15
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    Replacement brakelines will be 3/16" with japanese nuts on them.
    AGS brand will have a part number that begins with BLJ followed
    with the length.

    Here is a list with numbers for the correct parts for the Z.
    These are all AGS part numbers (American Grease Stick)
    BLJ-308 (8")
    BLJ-312 (12")
    BLJ-320 (20")
    BLJ-330 (30")
    BLJ-340 (40")
    BLJ-351 (51")
    BLJ-360 (60")
    10 X 1.0mm AGS Union BLC-9U, Edelmann 27400, Weatherhead 7934A,
    Continental WUB596

    10 X 1.0mm Japanese tube nut for 3/16" tube
    BLF-40C-5 - Carded (5 fittings per card/10 cards per case)
    BLF-40B - Individually Bagged (1 fitting per bag/10 bags per case)
    BLFX-40 - Bulk/Boxed (100 fittings per case/box)
    BLF-40 - Bulk/Bagged (10 fittings per case/bag)

    Another nice product that works well on the Z's is
    AGS PolyArmour PAC-325 BRAKE LINE (its 3/16")

    This brake bending pliers is the best I have found for our Z's.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-D...lenotsupported

    This seller ships world wide and can get the lines also, but you
    will need to bend them.
    Last edited by Maples71240Z; 07-11-2009 at 07:04 PM.

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